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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

156 messages,  Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 9:47 AM

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#147 of 156 Re: Key will not go into the ignition.... [likelleh] by likelleh Aug 06, 2009 (3:55 pm)
Replying to: likelleh (Aug 04, 2009 3:11 am) Update...Well took it to the dealer and for the 3rd time heard the proverbial "we can't seem to duplicate the problem.". Well those words aren't the ones i want to hear so I told the Service manager i was only 15 mins away and would be right over. When i got there I talked to him for a few minutes and he gave me the key and told me to see if i could duplicate the problem. The first few times i put the key in nice and smooth...took it out for a short drive and parked it. Key again went in smooth. Took it for a 10 minute drive, did a hard u-turn to get the steering wheel to completely turn, brought it back to the dealer, pulled a hard turn with the wheel till it could go no more and shut the car off. Guess what! Key wouldn't go in. I went in and got the service manager and he came out. His thought that the small hinged pin inside the ignition cyclinder is sticking and so he is ordering it and will have to take it back next week for replacement...I'll keep you posted. Replies to this message: alanzdba (Sep 04, 2009 10:58 am) likelleh (Sep 04, 2009 11:58 am)
#148 of 156 Some News on The Instrument Control Module and Not Starting by clark_kent Aug 25, 2009 (4:55 pm)
New to the forum and thanks to all for the helpful info on here. Own a Sedona 2007 EX and it has about 16K miles. Very happy with a loaded vehicle that we obtained for a great price. Sunroof leaked on day 2 but more on that later. Recently it would not start and I kept jumping it. Tried all sorts of combinations as to turning power off to the doors and liftgate but if left for more then 18 hours it went dead. Went to Kia in Portsmouth, NH, where we purchased it. The service manager was very helpful. It appears that Kia does some, well, weird (read: not very smart) design things when it comes to power. When you first turn on the car the Instument Control Module ("ICM") is in charge of all the icons that display on the dashboard and for maintaining master control over the vehicle's power needs. In most cars, when you turn them off power is briefly retained so you can, say, close the windows (for just one example) for about 10-20 seconds. Kia, in it's wisdom, retains the power for much longer. Don't know for exactly how long, or WHY??, but it's for minutes not seconds. So, the ICM continues to draw power from the battery even after you've shut the vehicle down, locked it, and went into your house. In my case though the ICM isn't shutting off and it's draining the battery completely. The ICM is a rather expensive part to replace and the dealer has only had to do one before that malfunctioned as ours does. Thankfully, we are under warranty, he ordered the part (no dealer stocks it as it's too expensive), and they will replace it on Friday. Kudos to the service manager at Bourneval Kia for doing the right thing, even if it is under warranty, and not screwing us around by just giving us another battery and wishing us good luck. Will let you all know if it solves the problem.   As to the sunroof, if you have one and it's from 2005 or later, read on. So, I'm sure all know that no sunroof is designed to be watertight or airtight. Rather, when water lands on the sunroof there are a series of channels that the water flows into and out of the car unseen. Not so for us and we watched the water leak onto the front seat belt on the passenger side. This was the clue as it was only on the passenger side and leaking exactly where the front side air bag is loaded and bolted next to the A-pillar, slightly above and to the rear of the front passenger. Kia's design here could be a lot better. What Kia does when they make a car with a sunroof is to first install the drainage tubes that handle any water flow on a rainy day. Btw, the design of the tubes is poor all by itself, but should still work. Then, after the tubes are installed along the roofline, they install the side airbag assembly and bolt it in several places to the same approximate location as the drainage tubes. Of necessity, they bolt it well and tighten it. As they tighten the air bag assembly it begins to constrict the drainage tubes and water cannot flow to the aft of the vehicle and then down and out. Rather, it goes to the path of least resistance and drops vertically down into the car about where the front passenger seat belt resides. So, not only will Kia being replacing my instrument control module on our Sedona but will have to take off the entire front side air assembly, repair/replace the drainage tubes, and rebolt the assembly .   I posted this in the hope that it will help others who have similar problems. We bought our Kia because we felt it had great value for the money, looked good, and our only complaint (besides what's being fixed as noted above) is the crappy mileage. No way does it meet the 18-25 listed. That said, the warranty convinced us and now that warranty is paying off big time. Wish we didn't need it but we do and Kia (Bourneval) in Portsmouth, NH, is doing the right thing. We'll see how it goes and just hope this dealership stays alive; Kia dealers seem to be dropping like flies in this economy. Hope this is helpful. - CK Replies to this message: lavrishevo (Aug 26, 2009 8:16 am)
#149 of 156 Re: Some News on The Instrument Control Module and Not Starting [clark_kent] by lavrishevo Aug 26, 2009 (8:16 am)
Replying to: clark_kent (Aug 25, 2009 4:55 pm) Good post Clark. As far as the MPG goes you will see an improvement with additional mileage, but if I may offer some advice.   First, tire pressure is always a little gain. I suggest right around 36 PSI. My tires have a max pressure of 44 but with just 3 - 5 extra PSI you will have less rolling resistance and hence better MPG and longer tire life.   Second, is go with a K&N washable air filter and if your slightly brave remove the air-restricting filter right before the MAF sensor in the intake tube. Very easy to do, here is my instructions: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f16f1df   Third, Go with a full synthetic oil like Mobile One or similar. Synthetic oil not only last longer but lubricates much better and has shown to improve gas mileage as well as improve power. Same can be said about the K&N.   Fourth, and really this is the most important, is driving habits. The ONLY way your going to get 18/25 or better which, I achieve on my 2006, is by keep your foot off the gas pedal. Letting the engine shift right around 2000 RPM's and keeping the your speed limit at 65 MPH or under with not fast starts will give your great gains in MPG. Not easy to do with a powerful engine that is fun to use. Give this a try for a week and see your results. Remember though, it is all about nice and easy starts and stops in traffic and letting the engine shift at low RPM's. I have seen as high as 30 MPG in ideal conditions. Also, Edmund's highest mileage on the 2006 long-term test was 29 MPG 25,000 miles. Seems the 3.8's take a while to break in.
#150 of 156 Re: Key will not go into the ignition.... [likelleh] by alanzdba Sep 04, 2009 (10:58 am)
Replying to: likelleh (Aug 06, 2009 3:55 pm) Similar to our 2007 Hyundai Entourage (same vehicle). Key goes IN but won't turn. Sometimes takes 30 minutes. Have tried putting the key in and out multiple times, turning the key over, using a different key, and remote starting it first - no difference. Took it twice and they said "no problem". On the 3rd visit I was finally able to show the Service Manager the issue and he was able to replicate it - but said there was nothing he could do. I finally went to the GM who contacted Director of Service who is contacting Hyundai Field Engineering Services about this. We cannot afford for my wife to get stuck someplace if I am travelling. The Dealer treied to tell me it wasn't covered by the warranty. They changed their mind. Replies to this message: likelleh (Sep 04, 2009 11:58 am)
#151 of 156 Re: Key will not go into the ignition.... [alanzdba] by likelleh Sep 04, 2009 (11:58 am)
Replying to: alanzdba (Sep 04, 2009 10:58 am) I have heard of the key problem not turning. It's actually a lock mechanism in the car and there is a little cover you can pop to the right of the shift to unlock the steering lock to get the key to turn. I just can't get the key in period. It's like the small lock bar in the cylinder get stuck. Still very frustrating on both issues when you can't start the car when you want to. My dealer is replacing the cylinder and has to co ordinate with a lock smith to replace. Right now they are trying to wait till I call them because they will be picking up the tab for telling me the first few times nothing was wrong.
#152 of 156 Re: engine problems [mattone] by cgd Sep 09, 2009 (5:04 am)
Replying to: mattone (Apr 15, 2009 5:09 pm) Hi-we have had very similar problems with our 2006 Sedona. ESC-OFF light comes on and the accelerator does not function. Stopping and restarting the car seems to get things going. The codes that came up were P2106, P1295 and P2135. On 8/25 the dealership replaced the TPS and reprogrammed the ECM. Things were good until a few days ago, and then the same thing happened again (!).   Did the grounding problem that you mentioned fix the problem? Have you had any more of these issues with your Sedonas since April? Replies to this message: jerryb_kc (Sep 09, 2009 8:57 am)
#153 of 156 Re: engine problems [cgd] by jerryb_kc Sep 09, 2009 (8:57 am)
Replying to: cgd (Sep 09, 2009 5:04 am) When we had the problem, the dealership replaced both the TPS and the actual gas peddle assembly. Apparently the peddle assembly includes some electronic sending unit that connects by wire to the engine. That was over a year ago and the problem has not re-occurred.
#154 of 156 2006 Kia Sedona - Hesitation by regi_dog Sep 16, 2009 (12:52 pm)
Was recently driving on the highway (with my two infant children) when while going up a slight incline the van started to miss and hesitate. I pulled over-rev'd the engine hoping it would clear out any richness-this did not work. I shut the engine off - waited a few seconds and restarted-still the engine felt like it was missing. Finally after allowing the engine to sit (not running) for a minute, I restarted it and it ran fine. Drove it for approximately another 30 miles will no problem.. This has occurred twice with this vehicle. Has anyone had a similar problem?? Replies to this message: jfinc2 (Sep 18, 2009 11:25 am)
#155 of 156 Re: 2006 Kia Sedona - Hesitation [regi_dog] by jfinc2 Sep 18, 2009 (11:25 am)
Replying to: regi_dog (Sep 16, 2009 12:52 pm) I have a 2007 Kia Sedona that over the course of the past 2 months has had the check engine light go on and off and sometimes when the van is not fully warmed up will act as if it is miss firing. I took the van to a local mechanic and asked him to do a full tune up but he would not do a tune up instead he said he ran a diagnostic test and told me it was the throttle position sensor that needed replaced. I guess the mechanic took me on this because that did not fix the problem. I just had another scan test done today and it showed miss fires in cylinders 1, 2 and 3.
#156 of 156 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR 2005 SEDONA by huero Nov 05, 2009 (9:47 am)
Hey check engine light came on no signs of any problems took it to auto zone and they said code read throttle position sensor heres my problem car in texas with buddy and not sure if it will make it home approx. 750 miles nonstop hate to have somebody else work on car also does anybody know where it is located appreciate any help

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