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What's the best vehicle for my needs?

1145 messages, Last post on Sep 17, 2009 at 12:59 PM
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) Forget the odometer. Focus on how the car was used. What was the owner's commute? Mine is 108 miles of perfectly smooth highway, no stop & go, actually no braking, just gentle acceleration and coasting - my cars always have hi miles but are in great shape mechanically. What are the maintenance records? Did the owner keep a log? Receipts? You may be much better off with a higher mileage late model car.
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) So when I inspect the car, I should look for signs of aging like cracked hoses, seals, etc.? Regarding the DexCool coolant problem, I found that there was a class action suit on this problem. The proposed settlement lists 1995-2004 3.8L engine cars (including the Olds 88) as model lines affected. But does this mean that every 1996 Olds 88s used DexCool coolant? http://www.dieselbombers.com/bomb-shelter/14533-dex-cool-litigation.html And when I look at the engine, I should check to see if the coolant fluid used is traditional green or orange (DexCool) and signs of corrosion caused by coolant in the radiator and engine area?
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Replying to: morin2 (Jul 09, 2009 5:33 pm) Oh, didn't you know? ALL miles of used cars are HIGHWAY miles. ;b And that was the highway that connects the old lady's house to the church. ;b |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 9:40 pm) You'll only be able to see some of the rubber components on the car. |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) Other cars from that period can have engine sludge and tranmission failures which are fatal compared to the repairable UIM servicing. I see loads of that era H-bodies being driven by people who've bought them at the lower pricing due their miles typically over 100,000 miles and age and having a durable, reliable car with easy cheap repair parts in the event of a problem. I might offer a lower cash price but I'd buy it, do the services I'd suggested and then drive it an enjoy it.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 10, 2009 7:10 am) And in terms of the EGR tube/UIM problem, what symptoms should I be looking for when I inspect the engine? |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 10, 2009 9:30 pm) If it's leaking, sometimes a lot of moisture comes out the exhaust after the motor is started and revved and coolant is sucked into the engine from the pressurized shutdown the last time driven hot pushed coolant out into the motor. Comparing coolant level either fully hot and fully cool from day to day are one way to suspect UIM leaks. But water pumps, orings, heater and radiator hoses also can seep.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 11, 2009 7:52 am) How much would it usually cost to flush out the DexCool coolant and replace it with something else? Are there any suggested coolants that are better than DexCool?
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Replying to: plekto (Jul 04, 2009 10:44 am) That's a pretty general statement (in "final" dollars?) but I still think that, with reasonable assumptions below, your math is way off. A 20k (ignoring inflation) car every 5 years over 50 years of driving would be 200k, not 500k. Sure, some buy much more expensive cars, but others buy cheaper ones and/or keep them longer. BTW, I am not disputing your thesis that buying used (for most, not all cars) is (much) cheaper in the long run - I mostly follow it.
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Replying to: asafonov (Jul 13, 2009 1:50 pm) I don't think so. It costs about 30 cents per mile (conservatively) to run a car so at 14,000 miles per year you're up to $4,200 a year on top of your $5,000 per year just for the price of the car. 50×$9,200 = $450,000 then add a few more frills or expenses and you're easily up to a half million. That's why a lot of people drive their cars into the ground or stick with "preowned." tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
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