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What's the best vehicle for my needs?

1145 messages,  Last post on Sep 17, 2009 at 12:59 PM

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#985 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by suydam
Jul 09, 2009 (5:19 am)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am)

If you look at Edmund's used car prices, this vehicle would sell between $1800 and $2300 in my area. If it really has such low miles (very suspicious on a 13 year old car) then it has most likely sat somewhere for years. Parts can be dried out and cracked from non-use. So its low mileage isn't really enough to warrant such a high price, especially considering that it's a discontinued line.
#986 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by imidazol97
Jul 09, 2009 (5:35 am)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am)

Mileage? Definition of city is variable. If you're talking about stoplights every block or two and 35 mph with AC running, I'd guess about 18. If you're talking about 1 mile or two between stoplights and 40-45 mph, I'd guess at about 22. That's for a normal, gentle driver. If you're talking more suburban type driving, that'll go up to 24.5 for my leSabres. Highway trips can be 33 on flatter ground with 3 people, full of luggage and coolers and AC at 65. Hilly areas cut down the mileage.
 
If the car has been maintained with coolant changes through those 12 years about every 3 years with fresh DexCool I'd say you're about 50/50 for eventual seeps around the seals under the upper intake manifold. If it had green coolant that goes way down. If coolant was never changed and it's DexCool, I'd expect to change the UIM gasket with an aftermarket replacement--about $150 for part-- and about 5 hours of labor at a local shop who's done them before. If coolant is old style green, I'd feel a lot safer; early DexCool had a different formula and was changed after a couple of years. I am NOT sure your car came with DexCool.
 
The other factor is the EGR tube up through the UIM heats up and causes deterioration and leakage. I'd expect that on a car driven highway rather than short trips, which is what a car with 40K on it would have.
 
Change the coolant with a flush if you get it. You can do that in your driveway. I'd put in the longlife Mixes with Any Color by Prestone.
 
Transmission is the 4T60E which is a durable transmission by GM. Only problems come from abuse or lack of maintenance and a pressure control modulator that occasionally weakens. It can be replaced by dropping the pan like for a fluid and filter change. Unless fluid has been changed by owner, I'd drop the pan and replace filter with a good brand and put in Dexron III by Walmart called Supertech. Do not allow a shop to sell the easy and profitable "flush" they like to use. Seven quarts max needed. These engines and transmission do really well with regular service.
#987 of 1145
Re: I need help finding a car that my daughter can afford [fritzi2] by dtownfb
Jul 09, 2009 (8:01 am)
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Replying to: fritzi2 (Jul 05, 2009 10:42 pm)

Basically she is looking for a $3000 car. I would begin looking at 8-9 year old GM cars. they will be high mileage but the engine and transmissions are pretty durable. The mechanic should be able to keep a car like this running for at least 2 years/24,000 miles.
 
Are you in position to lend her $1000 to put toward the car? this way she can put $2000 down (save the rest for insurance) and pay $100 a month and be done with payments in a year...even if it is a high interest loan.
#988 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by morin2
Jul 09, 2009 (5:33 pm)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am)

There is always interest in low mileage, but old, cars - and that is often a mistake. One of the worst cars I know is a 15 year old Camry with about 20K miles on it. That car has idled at bus stops for thousands of hours and been driven cold for a few hundred feet up & down the driveway all its life. It would have a high book value - but wow, what a high risk car with so many thousands of severe service hours on the clock. I am very suspicious of the low mileage old cars. I drive that much in 18 months. Also, every component that degrades with time and not miles, like gaskets and seals, AC components, all rubber, brake lines, etc., will be suspect. The safety equipment will not be as good.
 
Forget the odometer. Focus on how the car was used. What was the owner's commute? Mine is 108 miles of perfectly smooth highway, no stop & go, actually no braking, just gentle acceleration and coasting - my cars always have hi miles but are in great shape mechanically. What are the maintenance records? Did the owner keep a log? Receipts?
 
You may be much better off with a higher mileage late model car.
#989 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by lhy
Jul 09, 2009 (9:40 pm)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am)

Thanks for the advice on how low-mileage old cars might not be so great.
 
So when I inspect the car, I should look for signs of aging like cracked hoses, seals, etc.?
 
Regarding the DexCool coolant problem, I found that there was a class action suit on this problem. The proposed settlement lists 1995-2004 3.8L engine cars (including the Olds 88) as model lines affected.
 
But does this mean that every 1996 Olds 88s used DexCool coolant?
 
http://www.dieselbombers.com/bomb-shelter/14533-dex-cool-litigation.html
 
And when I look at the engine, I should check to see if the coolant fluid used is traditional green or orange (DexCool) and signs of corrosion caused by coolant in the radiator and engine area?
#990 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [morin2] by qbrozen
Jul 10, 2009 (6:56 am)
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Replying to: morin2 (Jul 09, 2009 5:33 pm)

Focus on how the car was used.
 
Oh, didn't you know? ALL miles of used cars are HIGHWAY miles. ;b
And that was the highway that connects the old lady's house to the church. ;b
#991 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by corvette
Jul 10, 2009 (7:01 am)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 9:40 pm)

I think GM had fully transitioned to Dex-Cool by 1996. Peak Global makes a "universal lifetime" antifreeze that can be mixed with other antifreeze and is pretty well regarded, even if you choose to change it more frequently than "never."
 
You'll only be able to see some of the rubber components on the car.
#992 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by imidazol97
Jul 10, 2009 (7:10 am)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am)

To iterate my point. At most you're at risk for deterioration of the certain seals in the Upper intake manifold. Some had those problems, some didn't. Somehow the focus seems to be this is a major problem, but that's only if you ignore small drops in coolant level continuing as the seeps increase.
 
Other cars from that period can have engine sludge and tranmission failures which are fatal compared to the repairable UIM servicing.
 
I see loads of that era H-bodies being driven by people who've bought them at the lower pricing due their miles typically over 100,000 miles and age and having a durable, reliable car with easy cheap repair parts in the event of a problem.
 
I might offer a lower cash price but I'd buy it, do the services I'd suggested and then drive it an enjoy it.
#993 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [imidazol97] by lhy
Jul 10, 2009 (9:30 pm)
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 10, 2009 7:10 am)

So repairing the upper intake manifold problem is not a big expense?
 
And in terms of the EGR tube/UIM problem, what symptoms should I be looking for when I inspect the engine?
#994 of 1145
Re: 1996 Olds 88 LS questions [lhy] by imidazol97
Jul 11, 2009 (7:52 am)
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 10, 2009 9:30 pm)

If the upper is leaking any amount, after the car is thoroughly hot and the radiator is at full pressure you might, might get a stumble or a slight miss from coolant going into the cylinders. After driving for a good period of time hot and pressurized, check the oil for a milky look rather than the normal clear with black particles suspended like a colloid in the oil. Look on the inside of the filler cap for a substantial amount of moisture left behind, more than the usual short trip driving leaves. Look on the edges of the upper intake manifold around the throttle body end, front and back, for coolant trails which are rusty brown if it has DexCool.
 
If it's leaking, sometimes a lot of moisture comes out the exhaust after the motor is started and revved and coolant is sucked into the engine from the pressurized shutdown the last time driven hot pushed coolant out into the motor.
 
Comparing coolant level either fully hot and fully cool from day to day are one way to suspect UIM leaks. But water pumps, orings, heater and radiator hoses also can seep.

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