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What's the best vehicle for my needs?

1145 messages, Last post on Sep 17, 2009 at 12:59 PM
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I am looking at buying a used 1996 Olds 88 LS. It has low mileage of 40K. One owner. Clean title. The seller is asking $3900 for it. In general, what do you think of the mechanical reliability of this model, especially the engine (intake manifold issues) and transmission? What kind of gas mileage does this car get, especially in the city? Are the maintenance and repair costs more expensive since this is a discontinued line? |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) If the car has been maintained with coolant changes through those 12 years about every 3 years with fresh DexCool I'd say you're about 50/50 for eventual seeps around the seals under the upper intake manifold. If it had green coolant that goes way down. If coolant was never changed and it's DexCool, I'd expect to change the UIM gasket with an aftermarket replacement--about $150 for part-- and about 5 hours of labor at a local shop who's done them before. If coolant is old style green, I'd feel a lot safer; early DexCool had a different formula and was changed after a couple of years. I am NOT sure your car came with DexCool. The other factor is the EGR tube up through the UIM heats up and causes deterioration and leakage. I'd expect that on a car driven highway rather than short trips, which is what a car with 40K on it would have. Change the coolant with a flush if you get it. You can do that in your driveway. I'd put in the longlife Mixes with Any Color by Prestone. Transmission is the 4T60E which is a durable transmission by GM. Only problems come from abuse or lack of maintenance and a pressure control modulator that occasionally weakens. It can be replaced by dropping the pan like for a fluid and filter change. Unless fluid has been changed by owner, I'd drop the pan and replace filter with a good brand and put in Dexron III by Walmart called Supertech. Do not allow a shop to sell the easy and profitable "flush" they like to use. Seven quarts max needed. These engines and transmission do really well with regular service. |
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Replying to: fritzi2 (Jul 05, 2009 10:42 pm) Are you in position to lend her $1000 to put toward the car? this way she can put $2000 down (save the rest for insurance) and pay $100 a month and be done with payments in a year...even if it is a high interest loan. |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) Forget the odometer. Focus on how the car was used. What was the owner's commute? Mine is 108 miles of perfectly smooth highway, no stop & go, actually no braking, just gentle acceleration and coasting - my cars always have hi miles but are in great shape mechanically. What are the maintenance records? Did the owner keep a log? Receipts? You may be much better off with a higher mileage late model car.
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) So when I inspect the car, I should look for signs of aging like cracked hoses, seals, etc.? Regarding the DexCool coolant problem, I found that there was a class action suit on this problem. The proposed settlement lists 1995-2004 3.8L engine cars (including the Olds 88) as model lines affected. But does this mean that every 1996 Olds 88s used DexCool coolant? http://www.dieselbombers.com/bomb-shelter/14533-dex-cool-litigation.html And when I look at the engine, I should check to see if the coolant fluid used is traditional green or orange (DexCool) and signs of corrosion caused by coolant in the radiator and engine area?
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Replying to: morin2 (Jul 09, 2009 5:33 pm) Oh, didn't you know? ALL miles of used cars are HIGHWAY miles. ;b And that was the highway that connects the old lady's house to the church. ;b |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 9:40 pm) You'll only be able to see some of the rubber components on the car. |
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Replying to: lhy (Jul 09, 2009 4:16 am) Other cars from that period can have engine sludge and tranmission failures which are fatal compared to the repairable UIM servicing. I see loads of that era H-bodies being driven by people who've bought them at the lower pricing due their miles typically over 100,000 miles and age and having a durable, reliable car with easy cheap repair parts in the event of a problem. I might offer a lower cash price but I'd buy it, do the services I'd suggested and then drive it an enjoy it.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 10, 2009 7:10 am) And in terms of the EGR tube/UIM problem, what symptoms should I be looking for when I inspect the engine? |
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