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Smart Shopper What's the best vehicle for my needs?
1145 messages, Last post on Sep 17, 2009 at 12:59 PM
You are in the Smart Shopper Forum. Your Hosts are kirstie_h & tidester
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Replying to: kirstie_h (Jun 22, 2009 7:47 am) I don't know what its more expensive than. So far, parts have been comparable to my other newer cars, and the only reason I've gone through tires faster is the way I drive it. I bought a set of Sumitomos for the track for ~$440 and another set of all-seasons for the bad weather for ~$500. |
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Replying to: dave8697 (Jun 20, 2009 8:43 pm) I'll give ya an example. I bought an '03 Lincoln LS V8 with 30k miles in October '05 for right about $20k. It was a decent price. Trade value was about $18k. About 18 months later, trade value was $12k. So it depreciated somewhere in the 55-60% neighborhood in the first 2 years and went on to depreciate like a rock after that. Like I said, it CAN hurt.
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Replying to: qbrozen (Jun 22, 2009 9:10 am) If I buy it new, I fix everything that goes wrong with it. When I buy used, I find 3 or 4 expensive things wrong with it within a year and I never get them fixed.
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Replying to: dave8697 (Jun 22, 2009 7:19 pm) trading is asking the dealer to give you $4k less than PP. First off, if you get $4k more PP than trade-in, you've found yourself an incredible sucker. Typical dealer asking price is $4k over trade. Typical selling is more like $3k over trade. Private party, best case scenario, is more like $1500-$2k over. Take out the ad fees, detail cost, repair costs, and lost tax advantage (in my state, anyway), and trading is no worse than selling PP on vehicles over $10k. |
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| Say, I've been reading up on turbocharged cars. I like the idea of a car with the fuel economy of a 4-Cyl, but the power of a V6 or V8 - BUT, I've heard mentions of a "turbo lag". I figure it's not a big deal when accelerating from a stop. But is turbo lag going to negatively affect my ability to pass in and out of traffic quickly? I'm a lot more concerned about navigating high speed highway traffic than zooming up the fast lane, so I'm not sure if turbo is the way to go in that case. | |
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Replying to: demigawd (Jun 24, 2009 6:39 am) |
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Replying to: demigawd (Jun 24, 2009 6:39 am) However, "the economy of a 4-cyl with the power of a V6 or V8" is marketing BS, for the most part. Power costs gas, no matter how it is achieved. For example, a WRX STi gets 19mpg combined (300hp turbo 4 AWD). A 335ix gets 19mpg combined (300hp turbo 6 AWD). A G35X gets 19mpg combined (300hp NA 6 AWD). |
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Replying to: qbrozen (Jun 24, 2009 9:10 am)
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Replying to: jeffyscott (Jun 24, 2009 9:23 am) |
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Replying to: qbrozen (Jun 24, 2009 9:10 am) I've committed to hunting down G35x's, but I also need to keep some of my options open. Assuming I abandoned the absolute requirement for an AWD, but instead wanted a compact turbo car (sub-7 0-60) with a good reputation for maintenance and good handling in wintery Chicago conditions, what would you recommend? I was thinking something in the mold of a 1999 Saab 9-3 turbo that a friend of mine used to have. He had it in a hatchback and I really enjoyed riding in it. It could park easily because of the size, but had a great interior and could haul-ass. I've heard that the newer Saabs have really lost their reputation for quality, which prevents me from going for a 2003+ model. The fast Jettas fit that mold too (and, according to a post here, handle well in the winter), but I've heard bad things about THEIR reliability and maintenance as well. So is there a car that fits that mold but retains high reliability and reasonable maintenance costs?
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