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What's the best vehicle for my needs?

1145 messages,  Last post on Sep 17, 2009 at 12:59 PM

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What is this discussion about? Car Buying


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#751 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [plekto] by sebring95
Dec 29, 2008 (6:11 am)
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Replying to: plekto (Dec 29, 2008 1:08 am)

You need a real 4x4 mode just in case you actually do need all four wheels spinning at the same time.(this transfer method from 2wd front to 2wd rear is rubbish).

 
Care to list which 4x4 vehicles will spin all 4 wheels at the same time? Me thinks I can do it counting on one hand.....but curious what your take is.
#752 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [plekto] by stovebolter
Dec 29, 2008 (7:37 am)
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Replying to: plekto (Dec 29, 2008 1:08 am)

I'm not too familiar with the Patriot, but the RAV4's '4wd lock' is a similar system to what you may find in a Santa Fe or Outlander - it has an electronically controlled clutch that, under normal operation, engages when slippage is detected at the front wheels. Using the '4wd lock' on any of these vehicles will cause the computer to engage the clutch to power the rear wheels (up to a certain speed, usually about 25 mph). They do not switch from 2wd front to 2wd rear, they go from (open differential) fwd to (open differential) awd.
 
They are all primarily fwd vehicles, not true 4x4s. For most people, they are fine for virtually all normal driving conditions - paved/unpaved roads, snow/ice/rain/mud (not serious mudding, mind you). If a real 4x4 is needed, then yes, something like a used 4Runner (et al.) is a better option.
#753 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [stovebolter] by plekto
Dec 29, 2008 (6:41 pm)
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Replying to: stovebolter (Dec 29, 2008 7:37 am)

True. But that manual lockup mode is a godsend. Because when it's not just a little mud or snow on the road, but a whole lot of it, you need it giving power to the front and rear all of the time.
 
And 25mph in really really bad weather, but it works, is a huge advantage. Subaru of course does this all of the time, which is nice. But most people don't go 50mph on ice and snow.(or shouldn't)
 
But yes, none are a replacement for a real 4x4. And, as for the previous post, almost all larger 4X4s actually do give power to all of the wheels all of the time. You can see this usually listed as "part time 4WD" in the description, since you will destroy the transfer case running it on pavement for any length of time. But once engaged, it's the real deal. Doubly so if the system has locking diffs. Then you really only need one wheel to get grip to move.
 
XTerra, Suburban, 4Runner, Durango, Explorer, almost *every* RWD 4X4 truck, and of course the big boats like a Land Cruiser, Expedition, Range Rover, Wrangler Unlimited, and so on.
 
It's not going to try to be there to save you at 60mph in the rain. It's purely there for when you're stuck and in really bad need of traction. If you want a SUV with AWD for only the rain, Audi and Subaru are the only ones that do full-time AWD properly.
 
Edit:
Yes, Porsche(also Audi, technically), Mercedes, and BMW also have similar full time systems that work. But you *did* say 25-30k...
#754 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [plekto] by sebring95
Dec 29, 2008 (8:09 pm)
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Replying to: plekto (Dec 29, 2008 6:41 pm)

Unless the system has locking differentials (front and rear), you're not driving all four wheels at any time. Almost all "part-time 4x4" system have open differentials in the front. So assuming it has a rear-locking differential, the best case scenario (a low-traction situation) you'll be getting traction/power to three wheels. Landcruiser, Range Rover, Wrangler are the mainstream vehicles that have options for a fully locking front differential and they have to be manually engaged. These are amoung the few vehicles that could drive all four wheels at the same time.
 
Most of the trucks on the road, and particularly the SUV's with part-time systems have open-differentials on both axles. Like the Jeep Liberty base command-trac. So you're really only driving TWO wheels at the same time. And the open diff will typically favor the wheels with the least amount of traction. So really, the electroncic systems could be better for the average driver.
#755 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [sebring95] by plekto
Dec 30, 2008 (11:03 pm)
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Replying to: sebring95 (Dec 29, 2008 8:09 pm)

Yes, I know. I don't consider those systems to really be the real deal, either. 4WD in my mind is all four wheels getting power at once. Thankfully a few SUVs and most of the trucks have it available. A 4Runner, though, does have a button and you can hear the hubs lock and the transfer case engage. My friend's ~2002 4Runner out-did his Wrangler off-road and so he sold the Wrangler. It's actually a proper off-road SUV like they used to make. But a 4Runner might be a bit out of the budget that the OP wanted.
 
Actually *my* 4Runner is a bit older and has a manual transmission and actual gear levers to engage everything. IIRC, you can get a Patriot with 4x4 and manual transmission. No low range, though, but no gimmicks, either - really does go off-road if you want. The XTerra also can be had with a manual setup.
#756 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [plekto] by sebring95
Dec 31, 2008 (6:20 am)
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Replying to: plekto (Dec 30, 2008 11:03 pm)

I don't know of any truck that has locking front diffs (short of a Unimog). And I've had one of every brand out there, currently a Tundra. In fact, until around 2004 Toyota didn't even offer a limited slip on the Tundra. They did have some locking rear-diffs on their 2wd trucks though. Either way, nearly impossible to dig with 4 wheels on pickups without going aftermarket. Toyota had a pretty good thing with some of the earlier Landcruisers and 4runners. Wife has a GX470 that basically has limited slips on both ends so there's still no locking in and truly digging with all four. Of course that thing comes with glorified car tires anyway, which is what makes most SUV's useless off the dealer lot.
#757 of 1145
Re: Buying a car after 10 years and need help... [sebring95] by plekto
Jan 01, 2009 (12:12 am)
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Replying to: sebring95 (Dec 31, 2008 6:20 am)

I give vehicles with limited slip a technical pass They are at least trying and are decent in off-road conditions. Perhaps a more accurate criteria in my book, then, would be that the proper 4x4 has equal power to the front and rear without any computers or other idiocy trying to transfer power back and forth.
 
And on a lot of vehicles, a locker is possible to add after market if you REALLY need it.(a Wrangler, IIRC, does come with the option from the factory...)
#758 of 1145
Lease questions by collins3
Jan 04, 2009 (10:42 am)
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I am turning in my leased BMW325 CIA with 17,000 miles used on a 3 year lease having paid for 30,000 plus miles. I loved the car but don't want or need to pay as much this time around.
I would like some suggestions on a lease payment for $300 - $400 per month with little or no down payment. I don't care what kind of a car it is so long as it is new - I only use it for back and forth to work and shopping. I like the honda civic and the infinity but don't think they would lease that low.
Any ideas? Thanks
collins3
#759 of 1145
Re: Lease questions [collins3] by exb0
Jan 04, 2009 (4:00 pm)
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Replying to: collins3 (Jan 04, 2009 10:42 am)

Honda offers
 
2009 Civic Featured Special Lease
$189.00 per month for 36 months. $1,999.00 total due at signing.
Includes down payment with no security deposit. Excludes taxes, titles and fees. For well-qualified buyers.
 
You can also lease 2008 Infiniti G35 Journey for $349 a mo with $2653 down.
 
However, IMHO, the most economical way is to buy, don't lease, yourself a Civic LX for about $17K or Accord LX for $19.5, or Hyundai Sonata GLS for $15K and keep it for 10 years.
#760 of 1145
Re: Lease questions [collins3] by sebring95
Jan 05, 2009 (5:53 am)
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Replying to: collins3 (Jan 04, 2009 10:42 am)

What's the desire for a new car if you only drive 6,000 miles a year? You're basically spending $.65-.85/mile just in rent. That's quite possibly the worst financial model you can build for buying a new car because of the very high depreciation during the first few years. If it's a warranty issue, it would be more cost effective to add a service contract and keep the vehicle longer. You can add a Honda factory 7 year 100k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty for around $1,000. Very little maintenance required on any vehicle these days (if you follow the owners manual schedule, not the dealers). I guess I could understand if you were just into the latest/greatest car, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

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