Last post on Jun 13, 2013 at 2:32 PM
You are in the Isuzu Trooper
What is this discussion about?
Isuzu Trooper, Isuzu Trooper II, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#82 of 385 Re: 99 Trooper - starter? solenoid? [chanceintx]
Nov 28, 2006 (11:18 am)
Hi, if the solenoid is basically a magnet that is energised by the battery when the ignition switch is turned to start. When the solenoid is energised and travels to the crank position it also completes the circuit and supplies power to the starter motor to crank the engine. The solenoid must stay "in" in order to crank. If you are sure the battery is good and that the terminal connection at BOTH ends, starter included, then you can attempt to jumper the starter at the solenoid. If you can, and it cranks and starts, then it could be the starter relay or the ignition switch, but I doubt those. If the solenoid continues to click, then my guess would be the solenoid ( which should either be on or off depending on key position. A bad connection will definitely make a difference in its functioning. That is why cleaning and tightening the terminals at the starter is important to do before trying anything else. Unfortunately, it is a lot of work to do just the solenoid, and it is probably more practical to change the starter and solenoid than to just do the solenoid only to find out it was the starter motor too.
The cranking system employs a magnetic type reduction starter in which the motor shaft is also used as a pinion shaft. When the starter switch is turned on, the contacts of magnetic switch are closed, and the armature rotates. At the same time, the plunger is attracted, and the pinion is pushed forward by the shift lever to mesh with the ring gear.
Then, the ring gear runs to start the engine. When the engine starts and the starter switch is turned off, the plunger returns, the pinion is disengaged from the ring gear, and the armature stops rotation. When the engine speed is higher than the pinion, the pinion idles, so that the armature is not driven.
The manual says you have to remove the exhaust, but sometimes it is possible to snake it out. I have never done it, but maybe?
1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Starting and Charging Starting System Starter Motor Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Removal and Installation
attery ground cable.
Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
Remove heat protector (3).
Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals B and S (4).
Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).
Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).
Install starter assembly (6).
Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb. ft)
Reconnect the connectors to terminals B and S and tighten Terminals B to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb. ft)
Install heat protector (3).
Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb. ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb. ft)
Connect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
Reconnect the battery ground cable.
#83 of 385 1990 Trooper Woes
Nov 29, 2006 (11:22 am)
I have a 1990 Trooper 2.6 4cyl. My mechanic and I are at a loss. It seems that we shall have to tear the motor apart to find the problem...and neither of us wants to do that.
When the problems set in I assumed that I had done a poor job replacing the head gasket the year before. I had the head shaved, and remounted it. The problem persisted. I then took it to my mechanic and told him everything that I had done. He tinkered on it for a while...replaced some sensor, and then told me that it was ready. The problem was only lessened. Then I developed a new problem which forced me to park it.
Here's what happening: The problem first started suddenly....within a city block. It started to buck me...like it was missing or something. It was smooth enough until I tried to accelerate quickly. Then it would complain and buck. I could accelerate very slowly up to about 35mph, then it would complain all the time...I couldn't go any faster. I noticed some coolant leaking at the back of the block. So, since that's where the gasket blew last time, I assumed that it had blown again (didn't have the money to do it right the first time). I took off the head, had it planed, and put it back on....no change. BTW when you idle and then rev the motor, you can hear it complain just as if it was under a load. Changed the sparkplugs (JIC)...no change. Changed fuel filter...no change. Took to my mechanic. Fuel pressure is fine. Confirmed my compression is fine. His man changed a sensor (don't know what), and they said that the head probably needed a few hundred miles to properly seat. It would buck a bit until then...but I had when I revved it a little higher (3~4k) the power to drive at higher speeds (didn't push it past 70). Okay...in actuality it still ran like crap.... but it would run. I did so for 2 days...then I started blowing smoke. Turns out that the smoke came from oil jumping out the dipstick onto the exhaust. Took it back in to my mechanic, he said that apparently I had a lot of blow-by. There is seemingly a lot of pressure on the dipstick. That's where I am. It is now parked and I am not driving it.
I am suspicious of the vacuum system or the EGR system, but there is not much to read on this, so...it's little more that a guess. My mechanic was pondering if I put the head gasket on backwards. I looked a the old one....it is keyed in such a way to make it impossible to put it on wrong. When I put the head on I took my time. I was certain to make it free of particulate, and chemicals (used acetone).
New or recently new parts: Head gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, cap & rotor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, o2 sensor, cat, muffler, air filter.
I have not yet reset the o2 light. Computer says nothing's wrong. Added a bottle of Seafoam to fuel to try to clean injectors (I've used it in the past too).
Any and all comments are appreciated. There's going to be a lot of snow this year, and I really would like to have it running...if possible.
#84 of 385 Re: Any clues? [renet10]
Nov 29, 2006 (7:16 pm)
Just to let you all know about my loss of power-I had my boyfriend test drive it- It was my light touch of the pedal. I went from a chrysler lhs to a trooper cause I loved his so much and the lhs was fast. I almost forgot that the trooper weighs 4300lbs! I rode with him while he- blew it out- and now its a 4300lb speed demon. I love my trooper!
#85 of 385 Re: 92 Trooper with electrical problems [gschwimmer]
Dec 01, 2006 (10:37 am)
I have the same problem with my '92 Trooper. As for a weekend mechanic being able to tackle this , yes. I found the problem to be part availability. My Trooper was manufactured in the early part of 1992, so it has a different part (speed sensor) than the later models. If you can get the vehicle up on ramps or jack stands, the sensor is mounted on top of the transmission (mid way back I seem to recall). The sensor is easier to change than the drive gear.
As for the O2 light. At 80K miles the light comes on, the method to get the light out is to remove the instrument panel, and move a screw (mid panel on back)from the 'A' hole to the 'B' hole. At 160K miles move it from the B-to-A, and so on and so on. I changed out my O2 sensor, still had the light, disconnected the battery, still had the light, hooked it up to a code reader to zero out the O2 code, still had the light, saw an obscure reference to moving the screw from hole A to hole B, and the Light went out... problem solved.
Hope this isn't too late in addressing your issues, I just joined.
#86 of 385 Re: Isuzu Trooper: Problems & Solutions [gmchevyman]
Dec 01, 2006 (11:59 am)
I sympathize! My daughter bought a 99 Trooper in June 06. It was a oil monster and we had to fill it every other time we filled the gas. We tried all types of synthetic oil, seafoam, and other recommended fixes. We had the pc valve replaced. After the replacement at an Isuzu dealer, the Trooper wouldn't start and we invested $800 in a new starter. My daughter drove it out to Boulder CO where she goes to school, equipped with a case of oil. She called me yesterday to tell me the Trooper 'died'. She was towed to a service station and was told the engine ceased and she'd have to replace it with new or used. This would not be cost effective since we paid only $6000 for it. It's in great shape otherwise and I'm trying to figure out if I can sell it for parts (new tires, 6disc cd player, new starter). Problem is I'm in MN and my daughter and car are in CO. She can't be carless but that's another issue.
So, if you or anyone knows someone who is willing to pay for some used parts, I'd love to hear from you!!
#87 of 385 Re: Isuzu Trooper: Problems & Solutions [suemer]
Dec 01, 2006 (12:41 pm)
Just a reminder - this is not the place to buy and sell used parts. Try ebay or some other venue.
Dec 02, 2006 (8:59 pm)
My 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission, has been misfiring. When I have been driving for a while it will start all of the sudden. The vehicle only has 81,000 miles on it. I have a bad egr valve that sometimes sticks I guess as the check engine light comes on and the diagnostics says its insufficent flow to it. Any clues why it would be misfiring? I had a real bad misfire the other day where I heard a loud clunk and the check enginge light started to flash.
#89 of 385 Re: 92 Trooper with electrical problems [a6bnito]
Dec 04, 2006 (12:41 pm)
Thanks for the post. I changed out the O2 sensor and reset the light by moving the screw to the b position. Thought that might have solved the problem but noticed the speedometer drop to zero and than back to the correct speed while I was driving yesterday. Where did you find your replacement part. Thanks
#90 of 385 1991 Trooper Start and Idle problems
Dec 16, 2006 (12:27 pm)
I have a 91 Isuzu Trooper, 2.8 TBI, 4X4, 5spd.
It will turn over and start but stalls in about 1 second.
It takes about 10 tries to get the truck to start. I have to keep my foot to the floor or it won't start.
Once it starts, I still have to keep my foot to the floor as it runs real rich (black exhaust) until the revs get up to 3-4K rpm. Then it clears up.
It does this every time I try to start it, warm or cold, even if I turn it off and immediately try to restart.
Once it starts, it idles at around 2K rpm.
If I block the air feed to the IAC valve, I can get the idle down to around 850 rpm. I replaced the IAC valve, but there was no change. TPS is correctly set to 5.0 vdc (key on, engine off) also.
I've checked all the vacuum lines and sprayed WD40 around the base of the TBI without finding any problems. I checked the brake booster also.... no change.
Intake manifold gaskets were replaced last summer.
This problem started two nights ago after the truck sat for a month. Made the 60 mile trip home, high idle and all.
The high idle still sounds like it could be a vacuum leak, but I have yet to find it. Don't know if the hard starting is related, but I assume it is.
#91 of 385 1991 ISUZU TROOPER POWER ISSUES..
Dec 16, 2006 (5:06 pm)
First of all, I want to say that it is GREAT to find a Trooper forum running around out there. This forum was quite difficult to find. It’s a great pleasure to meet you all!
6 months ago, I purchased a 1991 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 5 speed manual Trans with a 2.8 litter 6 cylinder. The truck it in excellent condition! It’s the beautiful color of red with nearly perfect interior with no dents or scratches. When I first purchased it, I went out of my way to have a bunch of stuff done it to make sure everything was up to par. I changed all fluids. I.e.: oil, manual trans fluids, flush and fill coolant, engine flush, fuel system flush, break fluid, AC, etc… I also had the breaks done all around, new tires, new ac compressor end dryer, shocks, and tune-up with new plugs/wires/roter/distributer cap. I look at all of this as to be preventive medicine. Always better to be safe then sorry.
I do have one problem though that maybe you all can help me resolve. I live here in Denver Colorado. And being in the mountains, there are its challenges when running up and down in the hills. The problem I have is horse power. Not to long ago, I brought my children up in the mountains to go camping. We had a blast! It was the first time I was able to run my truck in four wheel drive! It went everywhere anyone else could go and not more! I was really amazed by its performance! The unfortunate problem I have it when the truck is running high end. When I shoot up into the mountains via the highway, I’ll hit around 65 mph. Once I start to hit any kind incline (and the incline doesn’t have to be much), my truck starts to bog down. I will be going 65 mph in fifth gear, and then I will have to work down into fourth, and so forth. My truck holds up great in first thru third gear. It is nice, but I find myself holding traffic back because I am not able to increase my truck speed up “any hill” at fourth or fifth gear. I am boggled by this. Could it be a sensor of some sort? Oxygen or Map sensor? Everyone tells me that my truck is just old, and I will just have to deal with it. I do try to keep that in mind, but when I’m running up any kind of incline or inner city hill, and see a U-go (however you spell it), or an old Datson passing me bye, I have to wonder if there is maybe a problem here. If there is anyone out there who can help me in anyway with this, It would be GREATLY appreciated…. Oh, and by the way, I have so many people come up and ask me about my truck. They've never seen one in such great condition! There doesn't seem to be any nice ones running around out there these day! It's to bad, I love my Trooper!