Last post on Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 AM
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Isuzu Trooper, Isuzu Trooper II, SUV
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#77 of 392 Re: seized 3.5l isuzu [gmchevyman]
Nov 17, 2006 (3:37 am)
Hi, there is a long history of complaints about oil consumption by the isuzu 3.5 engine. You should do a forum search to see the history of owners with concerns about oil consumption. The factory allows for up to a quart of oil for 1000 miles as normal. As for rebuild kits, most name brand kits are adequate and generally priced competitively when compared to factory parts.
I looked through the technical service bulletins and found the following which is an excerpt and a link to the factory form:
1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Consumption Usage Testing/Reporting
Engine - Oil Consumption Usage Testing/Reporting
Engine Oil Usage Testing and Reporting
(This Bulletin Supersedes IB00-01-S002)
ISSUE DATE: OCTOBER 2004
All Isuzu Models.
This bulletin has been revised to include new detailed procedures when completing the new updated Engine Oil Usage Test/Report. Please disregard information found in Isuzu bulletin IB00-01-S002.
Before performing any warranty repairs, based on a customer's complaint of excessive engine oil consumption, the Engine Oil Usage Test/Report shown must be completed in full.
The updated Engine Oil Usage Test/Report is divided into two parts, PROCEDURE # 1 and PROCEDURE # 2.
Procedure # 1, the inspection and testing portion of the Engine Oil Usage Test/Report, are eligible for warranty submission. Procedure # 1 warranty claim may only be submitted ONE time per vehicle. Review Procedure # 1 Results and perform the appropriate action. Complete all steps in Procedure # 1 before continuing on to Procedure # 2 (if required).
Procedure # 2, the validation portion, is NOT reimbursable under warranty. Complete all steps in Procedure # 2. Review Procedure # 2 Results and perform the appropriate action.
The Technician, Service Manager and Customer are to acknowledge the findings by signing and dating the bottom of the Engine Oil Usage Test/Report. Attach a copy of the completed report to the back of the Repair Order (R/O) hard copy and provide a copy to the customer.
NOTE: 1. Normal authorization procedures must be followed for such repairs.
2. Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated. For the most current and up to date information refer to IsuzuONE.com.
ENGINE OIL USAGE TEST/REPORT FORM
This Service Bulletin is intended for use by professional, qualified technicians. Attempting repairs or service without the appropriate training, tools, and equipment could cause injury to you or others and damage to your vehicle that may cause it not to operate properly.
#78 of 392 Re: Water Pump Replaced, Now Engine Leaking [atfdmike]
Nov 24, 2006 (10:05 am)
1996 Isuzu Trooper V6 DOHC
#79 of 392 Any clues?
Nov 24, 2006 (6:26 pm)
I got my 1994 trooper back from getting tranny rebuilt. The car drove perfect until I was on the parkway and it started to lose power. I pumped the gas and could reach a high speed until I got to a hill. Still pumping the gas I made it. What gives- no noise- no check engine lite- just no power. i was using 89 gas. I was getting poor gas mileage too. 67miles to $15 gas 2.29/g. Could it be as simple as a fuel filter? I was thinking if it was an O2 sensor the check engine light would have come on. A friend driving behind me told me black smoke was coming out of the tailpipe. They told me to check and make sure my wires were secure and they were. I love this truck pls any clues?
#80 of 392 Re: Water Pump Replaced, Now Engine Leaking [kdadman]
Nov 25, 2006 (12:46 pm)
Hi, when the water pump was changed, it was necessary to remove the belt, which meant removing the fan, loosening the PS pump and removing the harmonic balancer and removing the timing belt cover. Now, if they only changed the water pump, and did NOT remove the hydraulic tensioner that keeps pressure on the timing belt, then they did not disturb the oil pressure system. If they did remove the hydraulic tensioner, it has to be correctly reinstalled or a leak can result. They did not have to remove the tensioner to change the water pump, but they should have "pinned" it when they removed the belt. If they were not careful in removing the harmonic balancer, they could have nicked the seal that it slides through, and that could result in a leak. In moving the power steering pump aside, they may have loosened or damaged a line. The PS fluid is automatic trans fluid, I think, for your year trupr, but you should check to verify whether it is or not. Identifying the oil type will go a long way towards eliminating possible problems.
Not related to changing the pump, but there was a camshaft seal that the factory issued a service bulletin about, but I would think it would be OK since you had not noticed a problem prior to the pump change.
I am not a pro, but I have the same motor. Hope this helps, good luck.
#81 of 392 99 Trooper - starter? solenoid?
Nov 28, 2006 (9:15 am)
My 99 Trooper has been a little sluggish to start in the last week or so. Our battery is only a few months old but last night my husband had to jump it off to get it to start. He added some water to it and had a parts store fully charge the battery. It didn't need much of a charge. However, now it won't even take a jump. We've tested the battery again this morning and it is fully charged. All connectors are clean. There is a clicking sound when we try to start it but nothing else happens. He said it could be the starter or the solenoid. Do you happen to know how to determine which of these it is? He is under the Trooper right now and he can't figure out how to get the starter out without removing the exhaust but we hate to do all of that if it isn't even the starter so I'm hoping to help narrow down the problem some. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We need a miracle because this thing needs to be running by tomorrow.
#82 of 392 Re: 99 Trooper - starter? solenoid? [chanceintx]
Nov 28, 2006 (10:18 am)
Hi, if the solenoid is basically a magnet that is energised by the battery when the ignition switch is turned to start. When the solenoid is energised and travels to the crank position it also completes the circuit and supplies power to the starter motor to crank the engine. The solenoid must stay "in" in order to crank. If you are sure the battery is good and that the terminal connection at BOTH ends, starter included, then you can attempt to jumper the starter at the solenoid. If you can, and it cranks and starts, then it could be the starter relay or the ignition switch, but I doubt those. If the solenoid continues to click, then my guess would be the solenoid ( which should either be on or off depending on key position. A bad connection will definitely make a difference in its functioning. That is why cleaning and tightening the terminals at the starter is important to do before trying anything else. Unfortunately, it is a lot of work to do just the solenoid, and it is probably more practical to change the starter and solenoid than to just do the solenoid only to find out it was the starter motor too.
The cranking system employs a magnetic type reduction starter in which the motor shaft is also used as a pinion shaft. When the starter switch is turned on, the contacts of magnetic switch are closed, and the armature rotates. At the same time, the plunger is attracted, and the pinion is pushed forward by the shift lever to mesh with the ring gear.
Then, the ring gear runs to start the engine. When the engine starts and the starter switch is turned off, the plunger returns, the pinion is disengaged from the ring gear, and the armature stops rotation. When the engine speed is higher than the pinion, the pinion idles, so that the armature is not driven.
The manual says you have to remove the exhaust, but sometimes it is possible to snake it out. I have never done it, but maybe?
1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Starting and Charging Starting System Starter Motor Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Removal and Installation
attery ground cable.
Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
Remove heat protector (3).
Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals B and S (4).
Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).
Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).
Install starter assembly (6).
Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb. ft)
Reconnect the connectors to terminals B and S and tighten Terminals B to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb. ft)
Install heat protector (3).
Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb. ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb. ft)
Connect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
Reconnect the battery ground cable.
#83 of 392 1990 Trooper Woes
Nov 29, 2006 (10:22 am)
I have a 1990 Trooper 2.6 4cyl. My mechanic and I are at a loss. It seems that we shall have to tear the motor apart to find the problem...and neither of us wants to do that.
When the problems set in I assumed that I had done a poor job replacing the head gasket the year before. I had the head shaved, and remounted it. The problem persisted. I then took it to my mechanic and told him everything that I had done. He tinkered on it for a while...replaced some sensor, and then told me that it was ready. The problem was only lessened. Then I developed a new problem which forced me to park it.
Here's what happening: The problem first started suddenly....within a city block. It started to buck me...like it was missing or something. It was smooth enough until I tried to accelerate quickly. Then it would complain and buck. I could accelerate very slowly up to about 35mph, then it would complain all the time...I couldn't go any faster. I noticed some coolant leaking at the back of the block. So, since that's where the gasket blew last time, I assumed that it had blown again (didn't have the money to do it right the first time). I took off the head, had it planed, and put it back on....no change. BTW when you idle and then rev the motor, you can hear it complain just as if it was under a load. Changed the sparkplugs (JIC)...no change. Changed fuel filter...no change. Took to my mechanic. Fuel pressure is fine. Confirmed my compression is fine. His man changed a sensor (don't know what), and they said that the head probably needed a few hundred miles to properly seat. It would buck a bit until then...but I had when I revved it a little higher (3~4k) the power to drive at higher speeds (didn't push it past 70). Okay...in actuality it still ran like crap.... but it would run. I did so for 2 days...then I started blowing smoke. Turns out that the smoke came from oil jumping out the dipstick onto the exhaust. Took it back in to my mechanic, he said that apparently I had a lot of blow-by. There is seemingly a lot of pressure on the dipstick. That's where I am. It is now parked and I am not driving it.
I am suspicious of the vacuum system or the EGR system, but there is not much to read on this, so...it's little more that a guess. My mechanic was pondering if I put the head gasket on backwards. I looked a the old one....it is keyed in such a way to make it impossible to put it on wrong. When I put the head on I took my time. I was certain to make it free of particulate, and chemicals (used acetone).
New or recently new parts: Head gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, cap & rotor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, o2 sensor, cat, muffler, air filter.
I have not yet reset the o2 light. Computer says nothing's wrong. Added a bottle of Seafoam to fuel to try to clean injectors (I've used it in the past too).
Any and all comments are appreciated. There's going to be a lot of snow this year, and I really would like to have it running...if possible.
#84 of 392 Re: Any clues? [renet10]
Nov 29, 2006 (6:16 pm)
Just to let you all know about my loss of power-I had my boyfriend test drive it- It was my light touch of the pedal. I went from a chrysler lhs to a trooper cause I loved his so much and the lhs was fast. I almost forgot that the trooper weighs 4300lbs! I rode with him while he- blew it out- and now its a 4300lb speed demon. I love my trooper!
#85 of 392 Re: 92 Trooper with electrical problems [gschwimmer]
Dec 01, 2006 (9:37 am)
I have the same problem with my '92 Trooper. As for a weekend mechanic being able to tackle this , yes. I found the problem to be part availability. My Trooper was manufactured in the early part of 1992, so it has a different part (speed sensor) than the later models. If you can get the vehicle up on ramps or jack stands, the sensor is mounted on top of the transmission (mid way back I seem to recall). The sensor is easier to change than the drive gear.
As for the O2 light. At 80K miles the light comes on, the method to get the light out is to remove the instrument panel, and move a screw (mid panel on back)from the 'A' hole to the 'B' hole. At 160K miles move it from the B-to-A, and so on and so on. I changed out my O2 sensor, still had the light, disconnected the battery, still had the light, hooked it up to a code reader to zero out the O2 code, still had the light, saw an obscure reference to moving the screw from hole A to hole B, and the Light went out... problem solved.
Hope this isn't too late in addressing your issues, I just joined.
#86 of 392 Re: Isuzu Trooper: Problems & Solutions [gmchevyman]
Dec 01, 2006 (10:59 am)
I sympathize! My daughter bought a 99 Trooper in June 06. It was a oil monster and we had to fill it every other time we filled the gas. We tried all types of synthetic oil, seafoam, and other recommended fixes. We had the pc valve replaced. After the replacement at an Isuzu dealer, the Trooper wouldn't start and we invested $800 in a new starter. My daughter drove it out to Boulder CO where she goes to school, equipped with a case of oil. She called me yesterday to tell me the Trooper 'died'. She was towed to a service station and was told the engine ceased and she'd have to replace it with new or used. This would not be cost effective since we paid only $6000 for it. It's in great shape otherwise and I'm trying to figure out if I can sell it for parts (new tires, 6disc cd player, new starter). Problem is I'm in MN and my daughter and car are in CO. She can't be carless but that's another issue.
So, if you or anyone knows someone who is willing to pay for some used parts, I'd love to hear from you!!