Last post on Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 AM
You are in the Isuzu Trooper
What is this discussion about?
Isuzu Trooper, Isuzu Trooper II, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#64 of 392 Re: Update on 2001 Trooper [arrius]
Nov 06, 2006 (8:13 pm)
Point of trivia: The Isuzu Trooper and Caddilac Caterra share the same transmission. A GM transmission from France. Different gear ratios though. Same transmission is in assorted BMWs.
I have owned a 1984, 1995, and 2001 Trooper. All have been super reliable for a total of over 400K miles. I have been told by my Isuzu specialist mechanic to keep up the maintenance because a rebuild or replacement would be very expensive. For me so far, no failures other than a few minor externals like a power steering idler pully on the 1984, head gasket small leak on 2001, EGR valve on 2001, and the tendency to lifter tick if the oil was dirty on the 1995. All were easy fix with parts in stock.
#65 of 392 Intermittent Check Engine Light
Nov 08, 2006 (6:12 pm)
My vehicle is a 1993 Isuzu Trooper LS 5sp with 180,000KM. Lately I have been having a problem with the check engine light coming on. Aside from oil changes, I'm unsure when it was last serviced as I bout it around 15,000KM ago.
The light will come on anywhere between 10 and 30 minutes after I start driving. If I come to a stop, the light goes out, but returns when I start moving again. I have tried to flash the codes, but it shows no codes in memory. The light will stay on until I stop driving, but will not come on again if I shut down and re-start the car.
I haven't yet tried putting the clutch in while moving to se if the light is speed or RPM triggered (or neither).
#66 of 392 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission
Nov 09, 2006 (4:52 pm)
I just bought my dream vehical, a 2001 Trooper from a buy here pay here get screwed here place. I have always wanted one since my dad was going to buy one in 99', but never did (idiot).
Anyways my question is the transmission will almost like clunk into gear from a dead stop. I read how to check the level of fluid in the transmission by pulling the fill plug. Did that and a lot of fluid spilled out, I say almost a quart if not. I took it to an Isuzu dealer and they told me my front pump seal was bad and causing me to lose fluid. They than proceed to tell me that it was not under warnanty. But I thought these vehicles came with an 10 year 120,000 mile power train warnanty. It only has 80,600 on it. Also when I shift it from 4high to 4low it kinda clunks in, than when shifting out the lights will blink for two wheel drive mode for a little while. I do the reverse than forward, and it seems like its out, but not sure. If anyone knows what this could be with my tranny, would greatly appreciate it. And if you know how to fill the transmission fluid back up, that would be great too.
#67 of 392 Re: 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission [aztrooper01s]
Nov 10, 2006 (8:27 am)
Was the engine running when you pulled the plug? IIRC, you warm up the tranny, cycle through the gears then pull the plug with the engine idling to check. To fill, if low, you would then use some sort of tube to get the fluid to that fill hole. It is full when it comes up to the level of the fill hole.
The 10 year, 120K mile warranty is for original owner or family member. Less for non-family second owners. Might have dropped to 5 yr, 60K miles.
#68 of 392 Re: 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission [aztrooper01s]
Nov 10, 2006 (8:51 am)
Hi, Congrats on buying your Trooper.
Your post inidates a clunk when putting it in gear, but some backlash is normal when engaging or reversing trans gears and transfer case gears. There have been some complaints about loose or missing flex plate bolts, but you should hear something obvious when in park or neutral based on what I have read here. I am not sure where and what you read on checking the trans fluid level, but it is a little more tricky to get it right than the method you used. Find below the manual instructions. Note that the trans was just running and warm (not hot) when the fluid level is checked. This can be dangerous as you are under a vehicle that has been running, so safety blocks (chocks) on the wheels are a must, as well as the parking brake, and watch out for hot exhaust pipes. You will have to figure a way to get the fluid into the open overfill opening. There are manual pumps available, but I use the conical spout found on differential fluid bottles with a length of clear plastic hose pushed on it; by inverting the container and squeezing the fluid can be pumped through the tube into the trans pretty easily.
As for the front pump seal; were you seeing a fluid leak before you drained trans fluid? If you were, then it could have been a seal but if your trans was overfilled (not sure until you check the level properly) then some leakage may be expected. If it turns out that your fluid level is OK and you are still getting clunks, it will be a judgement call on your part as to how much you can tolerate. If you search the entire Trooper forum, not just this thread, you will find lots of info on similar complaints.
Good luck! One owners opinion.
CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID
There is no need to change the transmission fluid unless the transmission is used under one or more of the following heavy duty conditions.
Repeated short trips
Driving on rough roads
Driving on dusty roads
Towing a trailer If the vehicle is used under these conditions, change the fluid every 20,000 miles (32,000 km).
Place a large drain pan under the oil pan.
Here is pic from underneath.
With the vehicle level Remove the transmission oil drain screw (2) and drain fluid.
Tighten drain screw (2). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.)
Remove the transmission overfill screw (1) and fill transmission through overfill screw opening, using DEXRON (R) III ATF. NOTE: Add transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached.
Add transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with service scan tool.
#69 of 392 Re: 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission [atfdmike]
Nov 12, 2006 (4:36 pm)
Thank you everyone who has giving me info on this issue. I have taken it to a mechanic and he belives it to be the front pump seal as the Isuzu dealer said or could be a bushing on the torque converter. In any case I am looking at spending about $600.00 on fixing it. However right now it is running good and seems to have been just over filled with fluid. We keep you posted and let you know the out come of it. Again thank you for the information.
#70 of 392 Help with 2000 Isuzu Trooper
Nov 12, 2006 (5:11 pm)
I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with the 3.5L V6. When I first press down the gas pedal I get some hesitation but if i hold down the gas pedal it smoothes out after a second...it only does this with the initial acceleration like from a dead stop not if i push the pedal down while driving. I have completely removed and cleaned the EGR valve, MAF sensor, and changed plugs and air filter. Also I keep hearing a rattling sound when the engine is cold and i first accelerate but it also goes away after i get some speed up. I crawled under while it was running and checked the exhaust with a glove and didnt seem to find any exhaust leaks, although that is where it sounds like it is coming from.....Can anyone give some suggestions?
Nov 14, 2006 (3:00 pm)
(2001 Troop, 4WD,Auto)
Ok, my transmission check light came on and flashed when I pushed the 4WD Auto button a few months ago. It would go off when I'd turn off the 4WD Auto button.
After reading about 1000 posts on the Internet I figured it was going to be speed sensors or some other costly fix.
I got my oil changed and tires checked and it still would come on and not function.
However, just today I decided to try again, and everything is working fine. Anyone know why it would have just "fixed itself"? Could it have been a result of my oil getting changed and it just took a few days to "kick in"?
#72 of 392 Re: 2001 Trooper S with automatic transmission [aztrooper01s]
Nov 15, 2006 (8:38 am)
Thought this might help with the clunk explanation:
2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD 4WD V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Driveline 'Clunk' Explanation
Drivetrain - Driveline 'Clunk' Explanation
ISSUE DATE April, 2005
All Isuzu Vehicles.
Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, Drive and Reverse, or while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a build-up of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
^ Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
^ While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
#73 of 392 Re: TOD Check Light [troopernate]
Nov 15, 2006 (8:40 am)
Hi, see you are covering all the forums! Here is Isuzu info on gremlins with no apparent cause:
2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD 4WD V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Inspect Connectors for Various Malfunctions
Electrical - Inspect Connectors for Various Malfunctions
Inspection Of All Related Wiring Harness Connections
When Diagnosing Miscellaneous DTC's, Intermittent
Driveability Concerns, Hard Start, No Start, Incorrect
Gauges, Inoperative Air Conditioning Systems, Service
Engine Soon Lamps Illuminated, 4WD Lamp Illuminated,
Instrument Panel Gauges Inoperative, Cruise Inoperative
ISSUE DATE: SEPTEMBER 22, 2005
All Isuzu Vehicles
When servicing a vehicle for any type of customer concern, the following steps are imperative. Inspect and ensure the integrity of all related wiring harness connectors. If the wiring harness connectors are not properly put together or engaged before they are locked together, numerous types of intermittent conditions may occur, which may include any of the symptoms listed above and possibly others.
The first step in any type of electrical diagnosis is a visual and physical inspection of the wiring harness connectors for integrity. Many times, the vehicle may be repaired just by disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors. As with all repairs to wiring harness connectors and terminals, a pull test of the terminals within the connector should be performed. A pull test is performed by inserting the proper size terminal test tool (not a paper clip) into the terminal to determine whether or not the terminal is making good contact, or whether the terminal has been damaged from the prior improper connection or lack of connection.
NOTE : Most terminals used in current module connectors (ECM, BCM, and the like) are small O~64 mm sq terminals and can be damaged by probing with the wrong tool
For example, if the Connector C2 of the engine wiring harness to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is not properly seated into the PCM:
^ The cam lock lever may close improperly.
^ The cam lock lever may even snap out of position.
^ The vehicle may have an intermittent condition with any one of the components which are controlled or monitored by the PCM.
THE CAM LOCK LEVER IS DESIGNED TO PULL (OR ASSIST) THE CONNECTOR INTO ITS FINAL POSITION ONCE IT HAS BEEN PRESSED STRAIGHT INTO THE PCM HEADER PAST THE INITIAL DETENT, ALLOWING THE LEVER TO BE MOVED INTO THE LOCKED POSITION. It is not only a retainer but an assist during the connection process. When the wiring harness connector is properly connected to the PCM, a snap will be heard when the connector is in position to be fully seated. The cam lock lever may then be closed. The cam lock lever will then do its designated job as both an assist and ensuring the connector does not come apart due to vibration or other types of conditions found in vehicles as they travel down the highway.
Remember, if a terminal (metal) or the connector (plastic) is damaged, they should be replaced. DO NOT replace the complete wfring harness assembly. Some harnesses are now on order restriction since most harness damage can be repaired.
Replacement Terminals can be found in the J 38125 Terminal Repair Kit, which is available through Kent Moore at 1-800-654-6333.