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Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

313 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 5:10 PM

You are in the Isuzu Trooper Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Isuzu Trooper, Isuzu Trooper II, SUV


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#293 of 313
isuzu 1994 transmission problem by faraidun
Jul 09, 2009 (11:11 am)
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Hi every body
my Isuzu 1994 Trooper ,the (Check Trans.)light is flashing time to time and when this light is flashing there's no automatic shifting and the speed is gone please help.
thanks.
#294 of 313
Re: Read a Post dated nov. of 06 can you give me some info on it? [morpheus249] by troopertrbls
Jul 11, 2009 (2:17 pm)
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Replying to: morpheus249 (Jul 07, 2009 1:55 pm)

What's up Morpheus249, my Trooper has about 91K miles on it. I have never had any problem with her except for the oil consumption issue. It started with what looks like an oil and water mixture exiting the tailpipe. Then the gaskets failed and she was getting too much air. Had gaskets replaced & she ran better, but still drank oil. So I went to a different Isuzu Dealer and asked about the oil issue. I forgot to mention that my new dealer said it would cost $2,000-$2,500 to replace the Piston Rings w/labor. I know I cannot afford it, but it beats $4,000 to replace the Short Block.
#295 of 313
Diagnosis Help? by Goalie69
Jul 23, 2009 (1:21 pm)
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First of all I’d like to thank those who provided feedback about how to replace a Serpentine Belt. Even for a non-mechanical type like myself, I was able to replace it within the 10-30 minute range that was suggested by others.
 
I have another issue that I’d appreciate any feedback on. My Trooper, like many others in this forum, has been sucking oil. In addition, I hear kind of a hollow, metal grinding type sound when my car is accelerating, and then it goes away when the car is done shifting gears. A mechanic told me that it was a PCV Valve issue, and that the valve was sticking open, causing the car to use more oil than normal. He pulled the PCV Valve, cleaned it up with some spray, and replaced the valve. The sound has gotten better, but is still there, and it is still using oil, making me think that the PCV Valve is still partially stuck open.
 
My question is should I go buy and replace the PCV Valve myself? It looked fairly easy (pull the vacuum hose, and pull out the PCV Valve), and would only cost about $6 for the PCV Valve.
 
Does the diagnosis from the mechanic sound plausible, and is the PCV Valve as easy to replace as it looks.
 
Thanks in advance!
#296 of 313
Re: Diagnosis Help? [Goalie69] by wlbrown9
Jul 24, 2009 (11:55 am)
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Replying to: Goalie69 (Jul 23, 2009 1:21 pm)

While I have seen stuck PCV valves on other vehicles, changing the one on my '00 Trooper did not change oil consumption. Maybe 1/2 quart 1500-2000 miles or so. Yes, IIRC it took longer to wash up afterwards than to actually change the PCV valve. I just try to remember to check and add before it gets too low. 147,000 miles and still getting along about as well as ever.
#297 of 313
Re: Diagnosis Help? [wlbrown9] by Goalie69
Jul 24, 2009 (8:33 pm)
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Replying to: wlbrown9 (Jul 24, 2009 11:55 am)

Thanks for the comment. Any idea if changing the PCV valve would resolve that issue of the hollow, metal grinding type sound when my car is accelerating?
#298 of 313
Re: Diagnosis Help? [Goalie69] by wlbrown9
Jul 27, 2009 (7:12 am)
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Replying to: Goalie69 (Jul 24, 2009 8:33 pm)

re: hollow, metal grinding type sound when accelerating.
 
Nope, can't think what that could be. This has an outside chance of being related to the air induction stuff described below. I have noticed a sound which I kink of relate to this when accelerating but would not describe as 'grindin'. Maybe more of a whooosh or hum:
 
http://www.autoworld.com/news/isuzu/2000trooper.htm
 
Of particular interest is the engine's sophisticated induction system. The variable air-intake system employs a butterfly valve that effectively lengthens or shortens the length of the intake track depending on the operating speed of the engine. Below 3600 rpm the valve closes. effectively lengthening the intake track. The longer track increases the volume of air, providing high torque at low and intermediate speeds. As engine speed increases over 3600 rpm, the solenoid switch turns off, shortening the port thereby increasing volumetric efficiency and providing high torque at high engine speeds
#299 of 313
Re: 1991 Trooper Start and Idle problems [subfixer1] by goddesscleo
Aug 19, 2009 (6:44 pm)
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Replying to: subfixer1 (Dec 16, 2006 11:27 am)

Not sure if you're still around, did you ever find a solution to your Trooper problem? I have an 89' 2.8 TBI with the same symptoms...only now it's been sitting at a mechanics for awhile (not a good mechanic, and by awhile...I mean a little over a year) So now that the fire is under my a**, I'm in desperate need to just get it fixed. It's at a new mechanics now :-/. I believe the fuel throttle body and distributor are to blame. Sinking more money into this Trooper is getting scary! Let me know if you have any insight. I'm a girl so if my "auto repair lingo" is not correct then please go easy on me...I'm trying!
#300 of 313
Re: 1991 Trooper Start and Idle problems [goddesscleo] by oilburner1
Aug 19, 2009 (7:07 pm)
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Replying to: goddesscleo (Aug 19, 2009 6:44 pm)

Actually, my trooper is still sitting at the meachanic's place also. No, I have not found the simple absolute answer to my problem but most likely will get it towed in a month or so and most likely will have the engine overhauled, (meaning a rebuilt short block) at about $1500.000 which is a lot less than the mechanic was going to charge be to install a used engine %4,000.00
 
Sorry I am not able to add any insight to what your problem might be...still dealing with finding answer.
#302 of 313
Rattles in Rear by jake1216
Oct 06, 2009 (9:10 pm)
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I have a 2002 Trooper Ltd. Today for the first time, while driving, I heard this rattling in the rear cargo area. It got louder as I accelerated. At first I thought it was something vibrating against something or I had picked up a branch. But when I got out to look I couldn't see anything. Then, while still idling, I could hear the "rattling" near the driver's side of the rear wheel. What could it be?

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