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SUVs Kia Sportage Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair
606 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 1:22 AM
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Our '08 Sportage LX 2WD 2.0L was operating perfectly at 740 miles since new (we bought it in 01/09). Then, it began to be difficult to start...somewhat worse when cold than when warm. No codes, no "check engine". It turns over fine but either doesn't fire or just stumbles as thought it's too lean to run. It went to the dealer twice. The first time, they replaced the fuel pump assembly...no difference. The service dept. said the fuel pressure was too low but apparently didn't test it again with the new pump installed. I don't have an adapter to put a guage on the fuel rail, so I don't know if the pressure is what it should be (nearly 50 psi).. The second time, they blamed the owner (me) for installing a keyless entry system and causing some electrical "gremlin". So I removed the keyless entry leaving no spliced wires or anything else changed from the original factory configuration. No difference. The best way to get it to start is to turn the key on and off 3 times before trying to start it. I'm hoping that's a useful clue for some of you experienced folks who know these cars. I usually work on old trucks, cars, and motorcycles and so have little experience with modern vehicles. I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches, but this was the vehicle my wife wanted. Any hints, hypotheses or suggestions? Thanks
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Replying to: buzzard40 (May 04, 2009 10:36 am) ..mmm...I think you would rather drive a bike....but I also find carbs and ignition breaker points were easy to cope with....though I must admit that all of the present day contraptions are really fine when they act according to plans.... ..so.....no experience with the 09 model....but I would investigate , just to be sure, in the direction of Mass Airflow Sensor , Idle Air control valve and Coolant temp sensor.......at least to clear these options out.....
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Replying to: lmp4 (May 04, 2009 4:03 pm) My first idea was the ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor) since the problem was initially limited to cold starts and the engine seems too lean to start (I used the old timer's technique of sniffing the tailpipe when my wife cranked the engine...I could hear it fire and stumble but smelled no fuel in the exhaust). But then, it began to be intermittently difficult to start warm as well as cold. I haven't put the ohmmeter on the ECTS yet since it's difficult to reach in there and disconnect the plug. The odd thing about the symptoms is that it runs perfectly once it starts. No stalling, no hesitation, no loping, fuel economy about 21mpg in local driving. Would that be the case with a faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or coolant temp sensor? I just don't have much experience with these modern fuel injection systems. Is there some kind of starting enrichment system? If so, I suspect it would be some kind of code in the ECM that determines how wide a pulse to give each electronic fuel injector at startup, wouldn't it? Any ideas are welcome!
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Replying to: buzzard40 (May 04, 2009 5:55 pm) Coolant temp sensor has a very large influence on mixture, and if the sensor is "shorted" due to wiring or internal failure, it looks as a warm/hot engine and starting cold will be difficult. IN fact, will it start OK once warmed up? And just being or seeming "warm" within limits will not pop a code....Just disconnecting this sensor, once you reach at it, would read "open", equivalent to cold, and this would force a rich mixture. ALso, the fuel pump and ECM normally feed a long pulse at initial startup as a primer....THis new SPorty/Tuckson is unknown to me, but the old model would run the fuel pump only WHILE starting, once it reads either cam or crank sensor pulses, ...so no way to hear the pump at KEY ON like my Pontiac Transport....... ...report findings...
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Replying to: lmp4 (May 06, 2009 4:33 am) I stuck my head under the fuel tank and used another sensor (ears) when my wife started the vehicle yesterday. Sure enough, at "key on", I heard the fuel pump run for several seconds. I still don't have a way to confirm pressure at the fuel rail. There are a couple specialty tools in the manual (G03821634 and G03821635) that appear to adapt a standard pressure guage to the fuel rail. I haven't had time to determine what thread size the cap is on the end of the fuel rail. I suspect it isn't a thread pattern I'm likely to have around the house...it's fairly large in diameter. We have an old Sportage (4WD 5-speed) in the Philippines (a '98) but it has a 2.0L diesel engine purportedly made by Mazda, so nothing I've learned about that beast that would apply to the 2008. It would be a blast to try to drive it here in the U.S. It has 70 HP which is sufficient for those congested roads but it does struggle to climb hills. However, in 4WD, it will go about anywhere including through deep mud. We bought the '08 because I've been so impressed by the ruggedness of that old diesel Sporty. I'll try again to find a way to disconnect the coolant temp sensor and see how the vehicle starts. However, with it starting quite well the past few days, that may not be very informative. Thanks again for your guidance. |
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Replying to: ameliarose (Jul 29, 2006 7:30 pm) |
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My 02 has a bad noise in the morning when I start it up. It is worse after it has rained, for some reason. I have had all the maintenance done and the belts have all been replaced. The dealership cannot figure out what the noice is. Also just within a day or so, the car has started to make a BUMPING noice when I hit a bump in the road. I thought at first the spare tire mount was loose, and took it in to be checked. They found everything is tight and nothing is loose. I was told by a friend, that possible a stablizer bar could be broken. What is that? and approximately what would it cost to fix. My car only has 56K miles on it and is a 1 owner.The dealership told me 3 months ago my car was in perfect shape, including the struts . I am so confused. ANY IDEAS?
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Replying to: margn (May 08, 2009 7:37 pm) link title ...timing belt idler and tensioner bearings have been reported to generate weird noises..... ..and exhaust system is a common source of bumping and rattling noises.... |
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Good Day All: I have an '06 with a 2.7 and auto trans. I drive almost 1000 miles a week and have 111,000 miles on the clock. I'll start with the noise as it has me completely baffled. It started about a month ago. It only happens in gear with the air on when stopped with it in drive, but not all the time. It almost sounds like a rod knocking but a bit more intermittent and it is on the passenger side. Turn the air off and it stops. The compressor and clutch check out fine. Pop it in neutral and it stops, accelerate and it stops. Could this possibly be the tranny pump? The fluid has been changed at 50 and 100K and was not burned or very discolored either time. The tranny is not slipping and shifts smooth. Of course no mechanic can get it to reproduce the sound when I take it in. The starting issue just happened yesterday. When cold it starts with the first turn of the key. After driving and setting for an hour or so it won't start very easy. I have hit the key 4 times before it will start. Once started it runs fine with no hesitation or missing. The check engine light is not on. The fuel pump is not giving the "whine of death" that usually accompanies a bad pump. I have had to do nothing to this vehicle other than oil changes and a set of tires. I know I should have at least changed the plugs and wires but there never was a sign of need to. So this is where I started. I pulled the front bank out and the plugs were not really all that bad, but I replaced them and the wires all the same. How in the heck do you get to rear bank? The intake plenum appears to sit on top of the plugs. The mechanic claims his book calls for 1.2 hours to do a plug and wire change. There must be a trick to getting the rear bank plugs out. I don't believe they can R&R the intake and change plugs and wires in 1.2 hours. Of course he won't tell me any secrets. Any ideas? This is my second Sportage. I had an '01 that I put 170K on with no mechanical problems and traded it in on this one. I really have no complaints with Sportages. These two issues are annoyances more than problems. Any info would helpful. Thanks |
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I have had numerous issues with my 99 kia sportage since 01/09. I have replaced the timing belt, the plugs, the wires, the fuel pump, the clutch master cylinder, the slave cylinder and now the samshaft position sensor, I have had the keyway and the key checked no wear still fine. I have checked also the camshaft pin (rod) which is fine not broke.  I have had the timing checked and rechecked all is correct. The car starts, idles rough can not get above 30mph and I have an engine light ln. I have 2 error codes one is po343 which is the cam shaft position sensor which is brand new yesterday ($100) and the other is the fuel pressure sensor. I am baffles I do not want to replace the fuel pressure sensor for $138 if there is something worse goig on with the cam shaft. ANY IDEAS?????
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