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SUVs Kia Sportage Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair
606 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 1:22 AM
You are in the Kia Sportage Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: tidester (Apr 24, 2009 5:56 pm) |
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Replying to: gjan (Apr 25, 2009 1:43 pm) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Replying to: tidester (Apr 25, 2009 5:25 pm) Do any sensors have the potential to block power to the relay through their own failure? Or is the main computer bad? Or a bad ground somewhere? All other electrical functions work. Which is more likely?
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Replying to: gjan (Apr 26, 2009 5:55 am) Me neither! But you said the pump functions correctly when removed and the battery/relays are okay so I'm wondering whether all the connections are good. Regarding sensor or electronic control modules being at fault, I suppose that's possible. Perhaps someone with hands on experience would care to jump in and offer some advice. Anyone? tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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Replying to: gjan (Apr 26, 2009 5:55 am) Missing 12V at the FP coil means something is lost somewhere. fuel pump circuit There have been cases of ignition key failure...so some means to check for that should come first, just in case. |
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Our '08 Sportage LX 2WD 2.0L was operating perfectly at 740 miles since new (we bought it in 01/09). Then, it began to be difficult to start...somewhat worse when cold than when warm. No codes, no "check engine". It turns over fine but either doesn't fire or just stumbles as thought it's too lean to run. It went to the dealer twice. The first time, they replaced the fuel pump assembly...no difference. The service dept. said the fuel pressure was too low but apparently didn't test it again with the new pump installed. I don't have an adapter to put a guage on the fuel rail, so I don't know if the pressure is what it should be (nearly 50 psi).. The second time, they blamed the owner (me) for installing a keyless entry system and causing some electrical "gremlin". So I removed the keyless entry leaving no spliced wires or anything else changed from the original factory configuration. No difference. The best way to get it to start is to turn the key on and off 3 times before trying to start it. I'm hoping that's a useful clue for some of you experienced folks who know these cars. I usually work on old trucks, cars, and motorcycles and so have little experience with modern vehicles. I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches, but this was the vehicle my wife wanted. Any hints, hypotheses or suggestions? Thanks
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Replying to: buzzard40 (May 04, 2009 10:36 am) ..mmm...I think you would rather drive a bike....but I also find carbs and ignition breaker points were easy to cope with....though I must admit that all of the present day contraptions are really fine when they act according to plans.... ..so.....no experience with the 09 model....but I would investigate , just to be sure, in the direction of Mass Airflow Sensor , Idle Air control valve and Coolant temp sensor.......at least to clear these options out.....
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Replying to: lmp4 (May 04, 2009 4:03 pm) My first idea was the ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor) since the problem was initially limited to cold starts and the engine seems too lean to start (I used the old timer's technique of sniffing the tailpipe when my wife cranked the engine...I could hear it fire and stumble but smelled no fuel in the exhaust). But then, it began to be intermittently difficult to start warm as well as cold. I haven't put the ohmmeter on the ECTS yet since it's difficult to reach in there and disconnect the plug. The odd thing about the symptoms is that it runs perfectly once it starts. No stalling, no hesitation, no loping, fuel economy about 21mpg in local driving. Would that be the case with a faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or coolant temp sensor? I just don't have much experience with these modern fuel injection systems. Is there some kind of starting enrichment system? If so, I suspect it would be some kind of code in the ECM that determines how wide a pulse to give each electronic fuel injector at startup, wouldn't it? Any ideas are welcome!
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Replying to: buzzard40 (May 04, 2009 5:55 pm) Coolant temp sensor has a very large influence on mixture, and if the sensor is "shorted" due to wiring or internal failure, it looks as a warm/hot engine and starting cold will be difficult. IN fact, will it start OK once warmed up? And just being or seeming "warm" within limits will not pop a code....Just disconnecting this sensor, once you reach at it, would read "open", equivalent to cold, and this would force a rich mixture. ALso, the fuel pump and ECM normally feed a long pulse at initial startup as a primer....THis new SPorty/Tuckson is unknown to me, but the old model would run the fuel pump only WHILE starting, once it reads either cam or crank sensor pulses, ...so no way to hear the pump at KEY ON like my Pontiac Transport....... ...report findings...
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