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610 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 5:16 PM
You are in the Kia Sportage Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: ort102 (Feb 04, 2008 8:32 am) That is almost "normal" as the return grounds for dash and blower are common and slight variation is expected. WHen the ground connection goes awry, the variation worsens. is there anything else i would notice if the head gasket was blown. in SOME cases, coolant spills in a cylinder when the car is stopped and is ejected in the exhaust manifold at start-up and this produces a short duration heavy white cloud at startup ....THis is somewhat confusing in cold weather because it is difficult to make the difference with what we already experience. HOwever when it shows in warm weather, the difference is more conspicuous. But absence of such cloud is not a sign that the problem does not exist. If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap will be covered with a disgusting white-brownish foamy sludge. But many times , specially when the leak is not severe, it happens only when the engine runs and exhaust goes from the cylinder to the cooling system.. However, when a car is run only for short treks in very cold temperatures, stray water vapour as a combustion product is not readily evaporated by high heat and accumulates and can generate some foamy goo...and that would stop showing in the summer. draining the oil pan might show traces of coolant The car will require topping the coolant tank almost daily Irregular heat flow from heater and erratic temp needle are telltale signs.... -"intestinal" noises (borborygmi) in the heater system GOing for a head gasket replacement is something one wants not to think of and this is why when I suspect such, I want a sure proof and the compressed air test is really a go-nogo clue. IF compressed air into a cylinder generates bubbles at the radiator cap, you have no choice. ...just starting the engine with the fuel pump relay disconnected might be able to pump air through a leak and bring bubbles at radiator because of the compression cycle in cylinders...but I do not like the noise and strain on starter and battery and the result is less conspicuous...so I prefer to use externally compressed air. My late Dodge Omni was a regular user of that test....but the spark plugs were an easy reach... Several would prefer to try everything else and many go to large expenses to avoid this operation and a few in the forums changed radiators, water pump, thermostat of course, installed a larger electric fan.....sometimes this procures some extra cooling margin but if the head gasket was failed, all of this ended up as waisted expenses added to the replacement cost...so I would go no farther than low cost "tests" like checking the radiator hoses for internal peeling ...rare but just to be sure .. even try a radiator flushing agent... and as I said, running the car WITHOUT a thermostat because a totally free flow might make coolant circulation to radiator easier to be seen. My first choice would be the unambiguous compressed air testing: if it proves positive...you will have some of the work already done. Somewhere I had written a "procedure" for spark plugs replacement...will look for.... yeah...here
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Replying to: lmp4 (Feb 04, 2008 11:09 am) If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap I'm talking of the oil filler cap.... |
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Replying to: lmp4 (Feb 04, 2008 11:42 am)
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Replying to: lmp4 (Jan 30, 2008 6:07 pm)
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Replying to: sue45 (Feb 05, 2008 3:58 pm) We did the test it is not the fuel pump, running out of ideas. Does any one have suggestions OK then for fuel supply. What about the other tests I suggested in my first reply: WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Use a voltmeter and test battery voltage with engine running (14.2-14.7) There have been cases of blocked catalyser...disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise..(That's fun)... ALso, I cannot dismiss the possibility of the timing belt having jumped a cog or 2, so I'd certainly verify that. You said it had been changed...when? Is the Check ENgine Light ON? And if so, retreive codes and post them. YOU said it lacks power...can you describe that with more details? DOes the engine start well? IS it a manual or automatic? If an auto, do you start from standstill with the HOLD light ON? (this starts in 2nd gear., quite mushy.).
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Replying to: ort102 (Feb 04, 2008 1:11 pm) Thanks |
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i got a diagnostic test done that read . p1123 tra air lcfk age can anyone tell me what the fault is please
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Replying to: lmp4 (Feb 06, 2008 5:27 am)
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Replying to: ort102 (Feb 04, 2008 1:11 pm)  I drove to cleveland today which is aboutu 3 hours away and at about 90 miles into the trip the temp guage started to go up. So i turned on the heat it dropped back below half. then when i got off at my exit the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around as i would accelerate and when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas
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Replying to: ort102 (Feb 14, 2008 12:50 pm) turned on the heat it dropped back below half. then ..the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas That was one of symptoms I already described as associated with exhaust invasion of cooling system due to a blown head gasket. THis is what "burps" the system. I told you many ways to check specifically for this...I think this relieves you from more testing. Most obviously, you have a blown head gasket. |
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