Last post on Oct 15, 2013 at 8:03 AM
You are in the Dodge Durango
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Dodge Durango, Engine, SUV
#56 of 168 Re: 2000 Durango Overheat [meclipse1]
Sep 24, 2009 (6:22 pm)
Sorry, I didn't receive a notification and just received another request from another person and saw your inquiry. I had the tow package cooling system installed on my Durango, which is different from the original tow package. The tow package itself should have the factory hitch with the electrical hook-up, a bigger alternator and flasher amp in addtion to the two core radiator and transmission cooler (located in front of the AC condenser). My Dakota had the OEM tow package. I noticed the difference right away because my truck had an aluminum colored radiator and the original radiator in the Durango was black. This might be something to check. I thought 2001 was the first year for rear climate, but I'm not for sure. One of my buddies had a 2000 or 1999 and it didn't have AC or heat. If there is rear heat you should have some type of rear controller allowing heat, in addition off of the thermostat housing (on the timing chain cover side) you will have the two heater lines going to the rear water pump. If you don't have a dual core radiator and transmission cooler, your ability to keep your car cool is somewhat handicapped. On a near 100 degree day, my Dakota will run almost halfway hot with nothing but the AC on. I'm not sure why Dodge ever made either vehicle without a dual core radiator. I noticed that you have not mentioned changing your fan clutch. I would test this to see if it is operating properly. Since you've had it flushed and fluids checked, I'm sure it had the right amount and good coolant in it. I would think that this truck should still be able to run with the AC on without getting hot and run under somewhat of a load without getting hot (I might be giving Dodge a little too much credit, but I don't think its an unreasonable thought). If it were me, I would check the fan clutch. If it seems to be working, then I would probably remove the water pump and thermostat. If there is some kind of corrosion then, I would consider getting the timing chain cover (if you buy the timing chain cover it comes with a water pump and thermostat installed, don't buy one before), if not then I would consider changing the thermostat, water pump, belt and fan clutch (I would do the fan clutch because you have to remove it anyway when you change the water pump, unless of course you have already changed one or more of those devices). The total cost for the thermostat, water pump, belt and fan clutch should be around or less than $150. If I had to guess from what you told me in the order of likelihood, the first is the fan clutch, then the thermostat stuck open, third the water pump, next the belt is old and slipping. I would not change the timing chain cover unless I found something to support that debris could have gotten into the cooling system, however if your radiator guy is right and everything checks then I would have expected your radiator to be clogged, which it sounds like it isn't. I hope this helps out. If you can think of any other symptoms let me know and I'll try to give you my best guess.
#57 of 168 Re: overheats during summer but stalls during winter [lenorekitty]
Sep 24, 2009 (6:54 pm)
Does your engine light ever come on? I'm thinking that you may have two different problems. The first when it gets hot in warm weather in stop and go traffic is likely related to air flow. This could be a bad fan clutch or a partially clogged radiator. It could also be due to low coolant level and old coolant. Improper coolant mixture could also be a factor especially if the level is low. The second problem might have to due with a hose coming from your gas tank. I have mentioned it before and it might be more descriptive than what I'm giving you here, but there are two hoses near your gas tank that go into a cannister. The hoses have a tendency to crack. They carry gasoline "vapors." I do not live in a cold climate, but I would image they would have even more of a tendency to crack in colder weather. However, if you do not have an engine light on, then this is likely your problem, because it will definitely come on if one or both of these hoses are cracked. Another cause could be a oxygen or mass air flow sensor, but again I would image that you would have an engine light on. On a Honda I used to have there was a warm engine sensor. The car would adjust its air flow and gas based on whether the car was warm or cold. The way I found out about it was one day I drove the car somewhere and got in it to take off, but it wouldn't start. It would turn over and act like it would start and then die. When I let it set for about a half an hour, the car cooled enough to allow it to start. I don't know if such a sensor exists in the Durango and again I would expect that you would have an engine light on. In a previous post, I also describe on how to check your engine codes, if you have an engine light on. It is possible that your throttle sensor is worn out and needs to be replaced. I have changed in on both my Durango and Dakota because when driving on cruise control the RPMs would suddenly increase for a short time then resume to normal. After I changed the throttle sensor (about $ 35), this went away. The reason I mention this is if an area in the sensor wore out then it might cause your car to die at idle and the engine light does not come on for this condition. If there is any more symptoms that you can think of please respond and I'll try to help you out.
#58 of 168 Re: 2000 Durango Overheat [sdout]
Sep 24, 2009 (7:13 pm)
I know you said you had your radiator checked. If you removed it or if a mechanic removed it make sure that your electric fan is plugged in and working. It should come on at the half way point or higher. If it is not coming on, you are not getting max airflow and it could be causing your vehicle to run warm because it is not getting the additional help it needs. If it is not coming on, the connection should be at the bottom of the radiator nearly right in the middle. It sounds like a pain to get to but you can actually get to it from under the front of the truck by removing a couple of plastic rivets and bending down the plastic protective cover behind the bumper. I've forgotten it before and had to plug it in this way. Again, I hope this helps, if you have anymore info, I'll do my best with it.
#59 of 168 03 durango engine light
Oct 10, 2009 (3:11 pm)
this am for the first time the engine light came on had a diagnostic done on it and it said something about emission or something like that sensors tech erased code and light went out suppose it is ok to drive vehicle >
#60 of 168 Re: 03 durango engine light [hypnotist1]
Oct 11, 2009 (11:07 am)
You should be able to check the code, if it happens again by turning the key on and off 3 times (in an earlier post, I have explained exactly how to do this). It will save you the time and money for having to find out what is wrong with your vehicle. An emission problem could be something as simple like an O2 sensor or something more serious like a catalytic converter. Anyhow, when they erase the code, of course the light will go out because there is nothing to notify the computer that there is a problem. If it is an constant problem the engine light will come back on immediately. If it is an intermittent problem then it will come on when the problem happens again. When the codes are cleared, generally the computer has to relearn the operations of the vehicle, so you won't be able to get it smogged or checked within the next day or even possibly the next couple days. If you can get the code, then you can find out how serious your problem is. If they noted the code on the paperwork, you can google it and find out what the problem is. I had a friend who had some strange code on his CR-V, once it was removed it hasn't come back (it's been about 3 years), however most codes are an indication of a sensor failure or a problem and you will see it again if the problem was not resolved. Hope this helps.
#61 of 168 Overheating, oil light and more
Oct 12, 2009 (7:19 am)
I have a '98 Durango SLT with 5.2 engine. There are about 230,000 miles on it, but not all of that is on the current engine--we had to put in a new one in 2005 because of the oil sludge thing that 98s are known for, I don't know what year the current engine is but it was supposed to be free of that problem.
A couple of weeks ago my heater core went bad and we had it bypassed. The mechanic said our radiator probably had a leak and was all corroded inside. Many things do leak out of the car judging from the assortment of puddles in the driveway.
A few days ago I was driving up a mountain when the car started running hotter and hotter. By the time we got to the top it was steaming and in the red zone. When it was time to leave we filled it with water and ran it for a few minutes and it seemed okay, but as soon as we started driving again it went red.
There was nowhere to pull over and once we got to paved road although it was still hot it was running okay. We were trying to make it 11 miles down the road to the gas station to buy coolant. But then the engine started clacking. At first it would stop if I drove slower, but then it was clacking continuously. The oil had been showing a little to the low side, but then abruptly the line fell to zero and we lost all power.
We had to pay $80 to tow the thing back to civilization. The mechanic wants $600 to replace the oil pump before he even begins to evaluate what else might be wrong. We don't have any money.
So my questions are: Does this scenario ring any bells? Is replacing the oil pump the thing to do? Is that a reasonable price (in Knoxville, Tennessee) to do such a thing? If we have to replace the engine, how much should we expect that to cost? Is any of this even worth it, given the age of our car and its mileage?
#62 of 168 2000 Durange 4.7L Overheating Within 10 Minutes
Oct 15, 2009 (9:44 am)
Please help, sdout!! I cannot travel across my small town and back (about a 10 minute stop-and-go drive) without my Durango overheating to the red line. It never overheated before this. I checked radiator fluid recently, and added what was needed (it was pretty low). Because filling it to capacity hasn't worked, today, I removed the radiator cap and found a fair amount of gunk on the cap and inside where the cap connects (radiator logged?). By the way, if I travel at 55 MPH or higher, the temperature remains below the half-way mark. Also (and I'm not sure how I figured this out) but when the temperature reaches the red line, I can put the car in neutral, rev the engine to 4000-4500 RPMs for 5-10 seconds, and the temperature will lower to near the half-way mark. But the temperature remains low for only a few minutes until climbing back up to the red line. Running the AC does nothing, by the way. I'm trying to keep repair costs to a minimum. Should I start by flushing the system and refilling, then go from there (e.g., replace thermostat, water pump, timing chain cover, radiator, etc.)? Thanks for your help. Reviewing your other forum replies has been very helpful!
#63 of 168 Re: 2000 Durange 4.7L Overheating Within 10 Minutes [egkpop]
Oct 16, 2009 (12:47 pm)
Thank you for the information. You have made some really good observations and points. At first, I was inclined to think that your fan clutch is working okay because it is providing good air flow over the radiator when you put it in neutral and rev the engine, however, if that was true then why would you need to rev the engine, right? Since the electric fan is suppose to turn on at the halfway point, it makes me wonder if your electric fan is working. Since your vehicle is heating up rather quickly, I would run the vehicle at idle and make the following observations. Does the fan clutch kick on ( the noticeable roar when the temp gauge is over 1/4 but under 1/2 on the temp gauge)? Next, when the vehicle gets to the 1/2 way point does the electric fan kick on? My suspicion is that both of these are working, but I would check these because if they aren't working then we want to get these operating correctly to get the best cooling working for your vehicle. The gunk on the radiator cap is potentially the source of your problem, however it could also be the result. If the gunk is gritty (with metal particals) then I think perhaps something is breaking down (possibly the timing chain cover) and clogging up the radiator reducing the amount of coolant being cooled. If the gunk is thick but doesn't seem to be gritty then it could just be the coolant was old and possibly started clogging up the radiator especially if the level was low for a while. If the gunk is gritty, I would remove the thermostat and check behind it to see if there is any deterioration in the timing chain cover. If you aren't satified, you can check behind the water pump, also. If there is no grit and the gunk is just thick, then you can try to flush the system several times to see if you can get more of the gunk out. I would think you might be able to get some of the gunk out and it might help cooling for a while, but ultimately I think the problem is likely to reoccur in the future. If you are okay with constantly monitoring your temp gauge and routinely flushing your system this might work, however, I would replace the radiator. Here are the steps I would take. Since you are trying to keep costs down, I will put what I think is mandatory and needs to be done and optional on things that might be able to slide until you can afford it.
- Check to see if the fan clutch and electric fan are coming on when they are suppose to, if one or both of them are not functioning, replace. (Mandatory)
- Remove the radiator and have it pressure checked at a radiator shop. If it is clogged, replace it, the hoses and cap. (Radiator - mandatory, Hoses, if in good shape and free of gunk - optional, Radiator cap - this is close to mandatory, but at least it needs to be clean and free of gunk).
- Before installing the radiator flush the rest of the system as thoroughly as possible.
- If you have not changed the belt in a while, change it (If belt looks good - optional)
- Install a new radiator cap (same as above).
- Install new coolant (Mandatory)
If you find your timing chain cover deteriorating, then the timing chain cover will need to be replaced which should include a new water pump and thermostat (mandatory). The radiator will likely be clogged and should be replaced (mandatory) along with the radiator hoses, belt and radiator cap (same as above).
I hope this helps, if you have any other questions or find out anything you need help with, let me know.
#64 of 168 Re: 2000 Durange 4.7L Overheating Within 10 Minutes [sdout]
Oct 16, 2009 (3:54 pm)
Wow. You're quite the diagnostician. I am truly grateful. I'll let you know how it goes. Fortunately, I have a friend that can help who's very knowledgeable about cars in general. But your input will definitely get us on the right track, and sooner rather than later. Thanks again!!
#65 of 168 Re: overheats during summer but stalls during winter [lenorekitty]
Jan 15, 2010 (9:10 am)
hi you are not going to belive what fixed our problem!!!! RADIATOR CAP!!! AFTER SPENDING ALL KINDS OF MONEY AND FIXES MY HUSBAND KEPT SAYING RADIATOR CAP AND SO WE DECIDED TO GET ONE 7.00 AND IT IS FIXED!! NO MORE HEATING PROBLEMS.