Last post on Nov 09, 2011 at 9:00 AM
You are in the Isuzu Axiom
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Isuzu Axiom, SUV
#23 of 32 Re: Axiom Brake Pads [walk_the_walk2]
Dec 10, 2009 (11:29 am)
which drilled and slotted did you get, where can i buy same
#25 of 32 Re: Axiom Brake Pads [isu2]
Dec 10, 2009 (5:11 pm)
I bought them from Summit Racing.com. They are EBC brand part no. GD 7200. They are worth every penny and do not warp. Plus, with air tools, they are not that hard to install.
As for the pads, I tried to buy EBC pads at first one online place, then another, and was shipped the wrong part. It was a big hassle. I even got into an email squabble with the owner of EBC in the UK, who was NOT helpful. So, EBC makes good products, but has dreadful customer service, IMHO.
In any case, you will also want new pads. I recommend highly the AKEBONO pads that I got locally. They were around $80, but worth it. No dust issues, and only the occasional squalling sound when it is real humid. Much better overall braking.
BEWARE: 2002 Isuzu Axioms made after Nov. 2001 utilize a different brake pad design with an projecting tab on each side, versus an inset notch. Some pads sold online to fit a 2002 Isuzu Axiom have an inset notch on each side instead, which is the opposite configuration and only fit an “early” 2002 Isuzu Axiom made BEFORE NOV. 2001, but of course, will not fit any of the later year 02 Axioms. I think this is referred to in the auto parts world as a “split model year” for the part in question.
Therefore, it is best to get pads locally, if possible, or CALL IN YOUR ORDER with Summit Racing, and be SURE TO GIVE THEM THE MANUFACTURE DATE off the car door, if you have an 02 Axiom, so you get the right pads.
Hope that helps.
Let me know if you need the Akebono pads part number.
#26 of 32 Why buy Isuzu brand after ALL THESE PROBLEMS ?
Feb 03, 2010 (8:30 am)
I have owned an Isuzu Axion since 2002 and have nothing but headaches.
1. Brakes that won't stop properly in snow/ice conditions (like my other cars).
2. Transmission that gets stuck in lower gears when cold
3. Transmission that jerks like a 1930s vehicle when shifting
4. Check engine light that is always ON for 3 years stating a replacement of Oxygen (O2) sensors when they are clearly not the problem because "check engine" returns after replacing the O2 sensors.
5. A fuel efficiency scam by Isuzu when actual is barely 15 mpg.
6. An engine that begins to sound like a truck diesel engine after 50K miles.
YOU HAVE TO BRAIN DEAD TO BUY AN ISUZU.
#28 of 32 Re: Why buy Isuzu brand after ALL THESE PROBLEMS ? [as_i_see_it]
Jul 05, 2010 (6:23 pm)
My Axiom is an 03, owned new. about 60k on it now. Never had any brake noises, and the only problems in all these years, besides needing a new battery and a set of tires, and now it looks like I have a wet right front shock that may need changing, was a bank 2 #1 o2sensor failed, almost 2 years ago and was checked at advance auto parts with their OBD2 tester. I put in a new one and that is it. check light then went out. Now the car sat for many months this winter and the rotors have gotten rusty, this happens with most all cars these days., the rotors on all new cars, prob made in china are poor from what i am hearing from many auto mechanics. They are made thinnner to save weight, and thus are not meant to be turned. the labor cost at 100 bucks an hour is more money than to put on new ones. Leaving them in the wet snow of winter does not help but I knew the brakes were getting low so was going to replace them. The brakes are ceramic so I bought new f and r ceramic pads and rotors. perhaps some of these people having brake jobs done and getting noisy brake sounds are not using the OEM ceramic, or actual Isuzu OEM brakes. I did use original replacement Isuzu pads for my 2000 rodeo, never even touched the rotors except for a light sanding, and they have been perfect, now with 90K on the car and prob 30k on the pads.
Is it hard to change the f and r rotors and pads on the axiom? mine is 4wheel drive so the rear parking brake I understand is inside the rotor. Does that present a problem in changing out the rotor and disk pads? I looked and saw that the front shock for a rodeo is the same as the Axioms standard non electronic shocks though mine are the electronic ones, hoping I can just substitute. I am sure the OEM electronic adjusting ones are pretty expensive. I think I will change the tranny oil soon for preventive maintenance. I change the oil and filter my self with semi synthetic oil every4- 5k, miles and i get 23mpg on a trip and 19-20 overall. I try to use the top tier Shell gas when I can as well.
#29 of 32 Re: Why buy Isuzu brand after ALL THESE PROBLEMS ? [massmusclecar]
Jul 16, 2010 (2:32 pm)
Thanks for the feedback on the pads and your brake performance. I will be revisiting my brakes again soon, as they are still noisy in the front (a loud squalling sound - not the wear indicator- when you first apply them or are braking as you go downhill).
Me and a buddy did the front rotor and brake pad replacement on my Axiom. The brake pads and rotors are not that hard to change out - but you absolutely need a heavy duty air compressor rachet wrench to do it, as the big bolts are hard to remove. But, my buddy, who had done this same task on other makes of vehicles said it was no different that doing a GM truck.
I used slotted racing rotors (EBC brand I think) from Summit Racing .com and some high quality Japanese brand special order brake pads. Not sure I like the pads but the drilled & slotted rotors are to die for, and worth every penny.
I did a lengthy posting on this site about how to switch out from the electronic shock suspension system to Monroe Sensatrac shocks, including the part numbers, so I know that it can be done. The same friend who helped me do the brakes, assisted with the shocks. If I had it to do over, I would just REMOVE the Active Suspension System actuators from the original shocks, buy the Monroe replacement shocks, and have a real mechanic do that job, as it is a very physically demanding task to REMOVE the old shocks, most especially the two rear ones. We had a lot of trouble with it, and my buddy is built like the Hulk. It's just a job for a shock shop, that's all.
DO CHANGE the tranny fluid to synthetic, as there are lots of reports of premature failures of the 4L30E tranny, and I think it is due to the lack of the dipstick and low fluid levels. Mines still going OK, so far.
#30 of 32 Soft pedal
Nov 09, 2011 (8:20 am)
My wife's 03 Axiom has been giving me fits with it's brakes, first let me say that I have replaced both the booster and master cylinder, have new pads all the way around and have bled the whole system , starting with the furthest away to the closest.
The problem seem to begin when the car is started, the pedal is good while the engine isn't running, as soon as it starts the pedal goes to the floor and the only way to get any decent pedal is by pumping the brakes.
I checked the vacuum line to the booster and am getting good vacuum, my question is this, can the ABS control module/pump be the culprit as it's the only thing left I haven't checked, bled or replaced?
Nov 09, 2011 (8:44 am)
You need to take this vehicle to your nearest Firestone or qualified service center, as this sounds like an unsafe situation. The 2002 Isuzu Workshop Service Manual lists the following possibilities for the symptoms you describe (excessive brake pedal travel):
1. Air in the hydraulic circuit (most common, as you likely know already)
2. Brake fluid low in the fluid reservoir (you surely checked for that)
3. Master cylinder push rod clearance is excessive (there is an adjustment for this - more to follow)
4. Leakage in hydraulic system (which relates back to No. 2 above)
You did not mention, but I assume that on start up, the Brake system LED lights up on the dash and then goes back out to indicate that there are no DTC codes being posted on your brake system? If the light does not light up and then go out, the LED could be burnt out and there could be DTC trouble codes getting posted that you would not be aware of, unless you went to the auto parts store and borrowed a scan code reader from them. But, this is easy enough to check.
There can, however, be other problems with solenoids or with the EHCU controller, or with the master cylinder or the vacuum booster, or with an internal (not external) hydraulic fluid leak that would be hard to spot, but would also cause this problem. The above items are just some of what is listed in the troubleshooting section of the chapter on the Power Assisted Brake System.
In conclusion, you may not be able to tweak this further - you have done what I would have done and then some - so I suggest you get a pro to tackle it, as bad brakes are a LIFE SAFETY problem, not something to muck around with and get wrong. Just saying...
#32 of 32 Re: Soft pedal [afojc] - MORE
Nov 09, 2011 (9:00 am)
The Service Manual also states that "excessive brake pedal travel indicates a faulty master cylinder"... which makes me wonder where you got your master cylinder, whether from a salvage yard or whether it was a new unit.
Here is a relevant excerpt from one page of the manual on adjusting the brake pedal. You can use the info to determine if yours can be adjusted or how far out it is at this time. Still, you may need to go to the shop on this one.
Checking Pedal Height
The push rod serves as the brake pedal stopper when the
pedal is fully released. Brake pedal height adjustment
should be performed as follows:
Adjust Brake Pedal
1. Measure the brake pedal height after making sure the
pedal is fully returned by the pedal return spring.
Pedal height must be measured after starting the
engine and receiving it several times.
Pedal Free Play: 6-10 mm (0.23-0.39 in)
Pedal Free Play: 173-185 mm (6.81-7.28 in)
NOTE: Pedal free play must be measured after turning
off the engine and stepping on the brake pedal firmly five
times or more.
2. If the measured value is not within the above range,
adjust the brake pedal as follows:
a. Disconnect the stoplight switch connector.
b. Loosen the stoplight switch lock nut.
c. Rotate the stoplight switch so that it moves away
from the brake pedal.
d. Loosen the lock nut (1) on the push rod.
e. Adjust the brake pedal to the specified height by
rotating the push rod in the appropriate direction.
f. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
Torque: 20 N·m (15 lb ft)
g. Adjust the stoplight switch (2) to the specified
clearance (between the switch housing and the
brake pedal) by rotating the switch housing.
Clearance: 0.5–1.0 mm (0.02–0.04 in)
NOTE: While adjusting the stoplight switch, make sure
that the threaded part of the stoplight switch does not
push the brake pedal.
h. Tighten the stoplight switch lock nut.
i. Connect the stoplight switch connector.
Checking Pedal Travel
1. Pedal height must be measured after starting the
engine and revving it several times to apply vacuum
to the vacuum booster fully.
NOTE: Pedal height must be 95 mm (3.7 in) or more
when about 50 kg (110.25 lb) of stepping force is applied.
2. If the measured value is lower than the above range,
air may still be present in the hydraulic system
Perform the bleeding procedure.