Last post on Sep 05, 2012 at 5:49 PM
You are in the Mitsubishi Diamante
What is this discussion about?
Mitsubishi Diamante, Brakes, Sedan
#12 of 31 Ceramic pads in front?
Aug 12, 2008 (4:05 pm)
I replaced my front brake pads with ceramics. They made a "juddering/groaning" noise on each stop from about 5 MPH to full stop. The noise was awful and vibration could be felt thoughout the car.
Replaced them with semi-metallics and all problems fixed.
Any experience like this from others?
#13 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [moberheide]
Aug 27, 2008 (2:03 pm)
I have the same vehicle with the same problem according to the dealer. 64K miles and they want $685 to fix it. They are telling me it typically need to be drilled out due to rust, grime etc. Doesn't sound as if you had that problem.Since there aren't many of these cars around what's the best way to locate a salvaged vehicle and how do you tell the one in the junked car is good before you by it. Assuming that happens do the ABS / TCL light automatically turn off or do they need to be turned off?
Thanks for the help
#15 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [97diamante]
Aug 29, 2008 (3:51 pm)
To Mike D:
Once you removed the heater core, did it appear to be leaking from any other area besides the gasket connection? Curious if you thought all the trouble of removing instrument panel was worth it. I have to tackle same job soon, and wondering which route to take. Thanks.
#16 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [bill208]
Aug 29, 2008 (4:05 pm)
You can remove ABD sensor from wheel hub by removing one mounting bolt, applying WD40 or other rust penetrant, and working around the edges of sensor mounting flange with a thin bladed screwdriver. It make take a while, but can certainly be done without drilling it out. Thats dealer talk to scare you off from doing it yourself. Regarding salvage yard, get out the yellow pages and pick up the phone - no other way to find one. Ask each yard, after they tell you they dont have one, who'd they recommend. I finally got lucky and was directed to a huge import only yard that had 8 late model Diamantes. There are simple tests to see if ABS sensor works while still on the vehicle (I'll explain in later posting), but more than likely you'll be ok with just paying the $150 for the wheel hub and being on your way. It's a lot cheaper than the other route and you'll feel good not paying the dealer. Once you replace the faulty sensor, the ABS / TCL light will not come back on.
#17 of 31 Brake disc problems
Aug 29, 2008 (8:29 pm)
As many of D owners have had pulsing brake problems I add my story.
I, too, had pulsing starting at about 25000. I always use a torque wrench when tightening the wheel nuts. I installed a dial indicator and measured the disc runout and also 'miked' the thickness. My conclusion is that Mitsu doesn't "season" the discs properly before machining. There were hard spots causing thickness variations of as much as 0.003"and warpage as much as 0.005".
Interestingly, only the front discs did this.
#18 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [moberheide]
Aug 30, 2008 (4:55 am)
Thanks. I'll look forward to your testing explanation. With the salvage yards these days will they let you go in and remove the parts or do they do it. If them and I ask for a right rear whell hub will the unhook the sensor cable or just cut it if I'm not specific.
#19 of 31 diamante 02 vr-x (74k miles)
Aug 31, 2008 (12:46 pm)
I recently replaced 2 of my o2 sensors due to check engine light codes p0155, and p0135, It worked well for about a week and a half, just long enough to get the damn thing inspected and now im coming up with a P0154 code that says it also has to do with the o2s. I also read something bout reprogramming for the diamante because of these errors... What should i do? and is it common for all these things to go wrong at one time? Could it be a more serious problem that is killing these parts?
#20 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [bill208]
Sep 06, 2008 (1:38 pm)
When you go to salvage yard to retrieve wheel hub w/ABS sensor, tell them that you want to go out with the yardman to remove the wheel hub. This is to make sure that he doesn't just rip the sensor wiring off the vehicle with the wheel hub, but carefully disconnects the pigtail harness and mounting clips. They may give a funny look, but persist anyway.
Regarding testing all four ABS wheel sensor> There are two key tests: Check for opens and grounds, terminal resistance of each ABS wheel sensor circuit should be between 1.4 - 1.8 kilohms. Check for proper AC voltage output of sensor, voltage should be at 50 mV minimum when wheel is rotated at 1 turn per second.. These checks can be done most conveniently at the master ABS terminal block in engine compartment on passenger side next to firewall. If you're looking at ABS master terminal block, then I can tell you which wiring connector position goes to each of the four wheel sensors. You can also perform these checks at each wheel sensor after jacking up each side of car. If you need more explanation, let me know.
#21 of 31 Front Brake problems on Mits D's
Oct 12, 2008 (5:10 pm)
I have a '02 D Ls w/100,700 miles, I bought it used in '05 w/67,000 miles, brakes were fine when I bought it. I just changed the pads with the Duralast Gold ceramics in front and Duralast Gold for the rear, no noise or problems yet. I was a machinist for over 30 years and I do know about metals and manufacturing, I would like to point out that once you warp a rotor you cannot 'turn it' and expect it to be good again. Why is this? Because warping causes hard spots in the metal that will always be there, so when you re-cut the metal you will have thick and thin places on the rotor, even though it will be within the manufacturer's tolerance, it will not take long for the warping to return. So, once they're warped, they need to be replaced! Now as to why they warp, there are several possible causes - 1. Possibly defective materials or quality in manufacturing, possible, but highly unlikely. 2. If you did not have a problem before, and you started having a problem after a brake job, then they probably didn't lube all the pins and contact slide points, this can cause the caliper's and/or the pads to stick, causing uneven wear and over heating of rotors. 3. Is the way some people drive, driving fast and braking hard, what's your hurry? This is not a race car people! It's a mid price semi luxury car! Its excess heat that causes metal to warp and get hard spots, this is a result of bad driving habits most of the time. I've worked on cars and motorcycles most of my life, and this is not the only vehicle to have brake rotor warping. So if you have bad rotors, get NEW ones and change your driving habits! Less accidents TOO!