Last post on Sep 05, 2012 at 5:49 PM
You are in the Mitsubishi Diamante
What is this discussion about?
Mitsubishi Diamante, Brakes, Sedan
Feb 21, 2007 (9:14 pm)
My 2002 green diamante sedan, 3.5 liter engine with beige interior leather (60,000 miles)has the best brakes I have ever experienced in any vehicle.
I did have the front rotors turned for grinding when braking. But this was a small price to pay for the return
#3 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [greenstone48]
Aug 15, 2007 (1:03 pm)
I have same car and I think same problem at aboout 66k miles, TCL light and ABS light came on and off intermittently and now all the time. how did your situation pan out? I thank you for your time in advance.
#4 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [ceejay2]
Aug 22, 2007 (5:09 pm)
Hi all, I am new to the D forum...I have a 2001 and I am experiencing the same problems with ABS and TCL lights staying on. I have 102K on mine and it started around 97K. It's on and off but more on than off. I also have a bad emergency brake cable and was told over $300 to replace. Has anyone ever had this done?
#5 of 31 Diamante Brakes
Nov 05, 2007 (4:09 pm)
Our 2001 Diamante has over 140,000 miles on it. The brakes make a horrible grinding noise, even though just replaced. Also, the emergency brake has not worked for awhile. The brakes have always make a weird noise...
#6 of 31 Rear rotor
Jun 29, 2008 (10:40 am)
Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear rotor on the Diamante? I have the caliper off but can't quite figure the rotor.
#7 of 31 Re: Rear rotor [jk59er]
Jul 09, 2008 (5:02 am)
I just recently replaced the rear rotors on my 2002 Diamante. WHAT A PAIN IN THE A--! There is no screw or anything holding it on. The problem is the rust build up on the inside of the "drum" part of the rotor preventing it from sliding past the emergency brake shoe.
The first thing to do is to remove the little rubber cap on rotor. That is the access port to the emergency brake tension adjuster. Aline the hole to about 11:00 and spin the gear looking thing with a standard screw driver to loosen the emergency brake tension. Sorry, don't remember which direction. I still had to take a large pry bar AND a gear puller to force it to slide off. I was real close to attempting to cut it off with an angle grinder, but thankfully the gear puller worked. Hope this helps.
#8 of 31 brake problems
Jul 13, 2008 (8:49 am)
I am having problems with the braking system on my 2004 ford ranger. Need some ideas, Brake pedal goes from hard to soft. Is it possibly brake booster or master cylinder. And if you replace one should you replace them both. All fluid levels are fine. Brake pads are fine. Please give some advice.
#9 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [greenstone48]
Jul 14, 2008 (9:49 am)
I'd say that your rear ABS sensor has indeed failed, and it is not related to recent brake job. Same thing just happened on my '02 VR-X (85,000 mi), intermittent ABS / TCL light along with occassional ABS motor engaging during braking. I diagnosed problem myself with help of on line shop manual (eautorepair.net) and a multimeter. Turned out that right rear sensor failed both the ohm resistance (1.4-1.8 ohm) and output test (>50 AC millivolts). Dealer wanted $400 for new sensor, and national parts chains don't carry it. I got lucky and found import salvage yard with a '02 Diamante that hadn't been cannabilzed yet, and was able to secure rear hub assy w/sensor for $150. Removing sensor from this hub and re-installing on my vehicle was not difficult. It worked like a charm - no more ABS problems.
Now I got to figure out fix for the infamous heater core issue! Any help out there with DIY procedure short of removing the entire instrument panel ?
#10 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [moberheide]
Jul 14, 2008 (4:51 pm)
Thank you for your help, As it turned out the master cylinder was bad, and we replaced it, and bled the brakes completely. Now all is working just fine.
Thanks to my son with the national guard. Who did the job for me. Husband is not happy he could not do it. hehehehe
#11 of 31 Re: Diamante ABS Brake Issues [moberheide]
Aug 03, 2008 (8:34 pm)
There were several inventive ideas posted on the former "diamanteforum" site. But the only one I saved (because it was in PDF) is this long one which is not a shortcut
The first thing you should do is have the air conditioning
serviced by some one who has the equipment to remove the
There are two ways of fixing leaking antifreeze from the heater
core. One is to change the O-rings on the heater core only and
the other is to change the heater core.
I started out trying to change the O-rings only, when I looked at
the O-rings I was not absolutely sure antifreeze was only leaking
there so I decided the heater core may need to be changed.
To Change the Heater Core the entire dashboard must come off
so that the core can be removed.
The first thing was removal of the r134 by a service station. I
removed the antifreeze and disconnected both hoses from the
firewall that go into the heater core. I disconnected the negative
connection from the battery because I did not want the air bags
to go off. Inside the car I took the glove box off first. Then remove
the passenger side air bag it could be unclipped, handle
with lots of care. The trim plate on the passenger floor left side
must come off also.
On the driver side the steering wheel must be removed and the
plastic housing around the steering post. The blinker lever and
light lever must be removed. Handle air bag with care when
Removing to steering wheel off. You will need a steering wheel
puller. I removed the trim collar around the instrument panel
two Philips screws and it snaps out. Tip: it easier if you can push
on any clip from the rear they will snap out easier. The instrument
cluster has four philips screws and comes out easily. The
bottom of the driver side dash must be removed.
The center panels and radio must come out. Open the coin box
and pull lightly on the rear of the wood grain, it unclips. Work
your way up and unclip to the front of the wood grain then remove
it. Next remove the ashtray, this can be pulled out with
help from pushing on clips from behind. On top of the radio the
air vents also unclip. There are four screws that hold in the radio
and heater control box. The console will also have to be loosened
and moved back about an inch to make way for the dash
removal. There are six screws total, two front, two under coin
box that needs to be removed and two under rear glove box
The dashboard screws need to be removed all underneath. There
are two screws up in front under the speakers, the speakers pop
out and you will see the 10mm bolts. The dash should now be
ready for removal. The metal chassis that you see in picture B
does not have to come out but I loosened all 10mm bolts for
room to take out heater housing. In Picture B you also see AC
evaporator on floor after removal. After the dashboard is removed
you can take out the fan blower and air conditioner
evaporator box remove the 12mm bolts (Picture C). This white
plastic is made up of 3 sections that need to be separated for access
to heater core.
See next page.
Picture A This white box is the heater assembly
that needs to come out to the right side for
removal of Heater core. Black vent pops out
Picture B Center chassis metal brackets
Picture C Two sections come apart after 12mm bolts
are removed and black plastic round buttons.
Diamante 2001 LS 73,000 miles
Heater Core Replacement
This picture was taken with camera up against firewall. This heater box unit needs to
slide out to the right so you can unscrew heater core from plastic section. Be careful
when removing because antifreeze will leek out of pipes in car.
Hope this helps because I spent a lot more time trying to think about the removal of this
unit than actually doing it. I think some of these pictures and instruction would have
saved me a lot of time.
Not an experienced mechanic just a guy who does not want to spend $1200 on this job.
THAT'S THE DESCRIPTION BUT I COULDN'T GET THE PHOTOS TO COPY