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Freelander Maintenance and Repair

279 messages,  Last post on Sep 30, 2009 at 11:09 AM

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What is this discussion about? Land Rover Freelander, Car Safety, Auto Repair, Car Warranties, SUV

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#203 of 279 Re: Update [smachine] by winezealott Jan 13, 2009 (8:52 pm)
Replying to: smachine (Jan 13, 2009 8:20 pm) OMG - you're definitely in my same nightmare. But at least you still have a car to drive (barely). I actually have been contacting attorneys here in California trying to get some feedback. I'm trying to get enough people to get a class action lawsuit going here on the West Coast - where are you located? Do you know anyone else that's a Freelander owner having the same problems? I'm going to the various websites and responding to emails to hopefully get in contact with other owners. I'm sure you've seen them all - there are quite a few others having the same issues. Let's keep in touch. Thanks for responding. Replies to this message: cyd68 (Jan 14, 2009 11:06 am)
#205 of 279 Re: Update [winezealott] by cyd68 Jan 14, 2009 (11:06 am)
Replying to: winezealott (Jan 13, 2009 8:52 pm) That was the letter I received from the attorney in mid December. Please contact him if you havent already. Also, I urge you to log on to the NHTSA website & document every single problem that you have had with your freelander, putting a major emphasis on SAFETY, how unsafe this car is to drive, not only for the driver, but passengers also. I actually think we are getting somewhere with this, so I need all of your support. Power in numbers;)
#206 of 279 2002 freelander by jagman56 Jan 19, 2009 (5:22 pm)
My daughter purchased a 2002 freelander.I was researching to see if I find out what might be causing the problem she is having,when I found this blog.she will be drivg along and the car jerks and boggs down,won't go over 35mph.engine light comes on.She stops the car and restarts and it runs fine.Anyone know what the problem may be ? (besides being a piece of junk) Replies to this message: atalexa (Jan 19, 2009 6:54 pm) ali6010 (Jan 19, 2009 8:38 pm)
#207 of 279 Re: 2002 freelander [jagman56] by atalexa Jan 19, 2009 (6:54 pm)
Replying to: jagman56 (Jan 19, 2009 5:22 pm) I had a similar issue with the one I had. When I took it in to LR they told me the motors for the cold air intake were bad and needed replaced. That ran around $300. The next winter the problem started again and I decided to make due having spent more on maintenance for the vehicle than I really wanted to. I did find a way to avoid the problem most of the time. I found that problem typically occurred if I didn't give it enough time to warm up in cold weather conditions. When I let it sit long enough for the temperature gauge to start moving - usually 3-5 minutes - it was fine. Usually, I found that when the problem did happen, I could restart and the problem went away as you mentioned, but the light sometimes stayed on for a day or two.
#208 of 279 Re: 2002 freelander [jagman56] by ali6010 Jan 19, 2009 (8:38 pm)
Replying to: jagman56 (Jan 19, 2009 5:22 pm) As the other person also said, we had the same problem and replacing the variable intake motors fixed the problem. I believe the parts cost over $150 each plus labor. Not cheap! Just like all of the other problems with these vehicles. I do believe Land Rover has tarnished their reputation with the Freelander. I will personally never ever buy another Land Rover.
#209 of 279 Freelander Overheating/coolant loss fix by jax290 Jan 29, 2009 (10:01 pm)
I had the same problem many of you have had with my Freelander overheating. I purchased my Freelander new in 2002. To date I have few problems with it outside of the coolant loss. As with most overheating problems I always start with the easiest and least expensive fix. I replaced the thermostat. I found that this was a "dealer only part", like almost everything on this vehicle. The thermostat is encased in a plastic housing with two intake ports, one port feeding directly into the engine block and one feeding to the water pump for a total of 4 ports. A second plastic tube installs directly adjacent to the thermostat housing feeding a separate coolant flow. Both the thermostat and coolant tube are a plug in design, with a single 10mm bolt holding both in place. The engine block ports on both parts are held in place with a single O ring, and the bolt only stabilizes both units jointly without holding them stationary. Here in lies the problem. Neither unit is securely held against the engine block, so vibration can cause the O ring seals to allow fluid to escape by and out of the system. I replaced my Thermostat and coolant tube with a new unit, and still had the coolant leakage problem, I took the thermostat out and installed it twice without successfully resolving the leakage problem. So, I purchased from NAPA a product called "Right Stuff", a rubberized gasket compound and essentially glued the parts into their proper locations. This cured the leakage at this location. Now I had to deal with the coolant reservoir cap failure. The cap is designed to hold pressure to 16psi, apparently LandRover found that the 2002 model reservoir cap was faulty, so they do not make a replacement. I had to buy a new tank and cap. Bottom line, the above fix cured my coolant leakage and overheating problem. Those of you who still have coolant leakage problems might consider doing the same thing I did, or your engine overheating problem could result in a warped head and coolant leakage into the oil system, as so many have mentioned prior. Hope this helps. Replies to this message: driver68 (Mar 09, 2009 3:39 pm) winezealott (Mar 10, 2009 7:42 am)
#210 of 279 Re: Update [winezealott] by bernie25 Feb 01, 2009 (10:49 am)
Replying to: winezealott (Jan 12, 2009 3:41 pm) I also have a coolant leak, the dealer says they can't find it. It is apparently leaking into the engine, is this a common problem? Replies to this message: sripley (Feb 01, 2009 11:53 am) jax290 (Feb 02, 2009 1:18 am)
#211 of 279 Coolant Leak- - re: bernie25 by sripley Feb 01, 2009 (11:53 am)
Replying to: bernie25 (Feb 01, 2009 10:49 am) Yes, the coolant leak into the engine is the Head Gasket Failure issue widely reported. The problem you are experiencing is a terminal-catastrophic vehicle failure issue and you seriously need to consider trading in the vehicle and I do not recommend spending any money whatsoever on trying to repair it. The dealer will say only a replacement engine will fix it, the problem with that is the engines were discontinued and any refurbished engine from a salvage yard, etc would have the same design flawed engine resulting in another failure, at a cost of $7000-$9000.   The above poster is correct that certain head gasket repair compounds such as Blue Devil and similiar products have on certain occasion corrected the problem temporarily, however those products will result in failure of the thermostat if not properly dont by a licensed mechanic. Blue Devil will also not cure any of the related issues with the gasket failure, such as warped piston head and the further emulsification of the coolant and oil which inevitably will result in the overheating issue as the gasket leak becomes a complete failure, the final failure having engine oil completely fill up your coolant overflow cannister and throughout the radiator system.   I do not recommend the gasket repair products, as they may temporarily correct the problem, but even state on the product cannister results may only last 6 - 12 months. Your best bet is to trade in the vehicle or discuss selling/legal or credit options to rid yourself of the Freelander. I understand a previous poster was successful in temporarily curing the gasket failure but it is like putting glue on broken cork, inevitably it will fail again.   Good luck.
#212 of 279 Re: Update [bernie25] by jax290 Feb 02, 2009 (1:18 am)
Replying to: bernie25 (Feb 01, 2009 10:49 am) If it is in fact leaking into the engine a quick check is: remove the oil filler cap and check the underside of the cap. If you have a glob type gray matter, somewhat like snot, then you most likely have a head gasket failure. This is most commonly caused by an overheated engine. If you haven't overheated the engine, and you don't have crud under the cap, then most likely the leak is what I discribed, and the is the same as I indicated. What I didn't mention was that the part of the thermostat that inserts into the engine block and the second tube were badly decayed when I removed the old ones. A quick check to see if the leak was the same as I discribed is: remove the air filter cover, that big plastic cover on the engine. If you look with a flashlight down between the intake tubes you can see a flat part of the engine block, with a black tube going from the thermostat housing to the back of the water pump. Directly under that system you will see either fluid or crud from evaporated coolant. If you have this then your thermostat system is leaking, and it needs to be fixed.

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