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Pickups Ford F-Series Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems
163 messages, Last post on Oct 15, 2009 at 9:39 PM
You are in the Ford F-Series Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: feldy2405 (Dec 12, 2007 8:20 am) Sounds like you have a cold start problem only. No check engine light or trouble code. Spray a liberal amount of starter fluid into the throttle body not the air cleaner area, and then imediately replace the intake hose prior to starting it cold. If it starts up right away, Your lean, or not enough fuel when cold. You will need a screw driver to temporarely remove that black intake hose. If this works the most common problem is with the ECT or sometimes called a CTS. There are two sensors for coolant temperature. One is for your gauge and idiot light, and one is used by the PCM to determine how long to keep the injectors open to squirt fuel(pulse width). This electronic coolant temperature (ECT)sensor also helps the PCM determine timing amoung other things. If the computer thinks the engine is always hot, well not enough fuel to start that cold engine and make it run right. This will not sent a trouble code or turn your check engine light on either. The PCM is just doing what it is told to so to speek, It is located near your thermostat housing and is a two wire plug. Try disconecting it and see if the problem goes away when engine cold. Disconecting it will turn your check engine light on and set a code. To reset, just disconect the negative cable to the battery, and reconnect the sensor. Unknown how many miles on the truck. Bad spark plugs will cause this also. Is it tune up time? Low fuel pressure will also cause a cold start problem, and not set a code. Fords will run with inadaquit fuel pressure when warmed up, and will even sometimes start without proper pressure. Good luck with it.
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Replaced the engine with a long block 5.4, original had 400k and no compression, has been at the shop now for several months and won't run, they have swapped out the sensors and computer and all is working ok, computer says engine not running, will start but spitting out lots of black soot from exhaust and won't rev up? any ideas what to try or could be wrong?
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Replying to: balfour (Dec 19, 2007 6:06 pm) Not much to go on because I'm not there to figure it out, but here is my opinion. Black soot most likely indicates either too much fuel or improper combustion. Not being able to rev the engine up indicates improper timing of the engine. What I gather is the PCM is confused as to where TDC is (top dead center), and cannot time the engine properly. The cam sensor is used by the PCM to synchronize fuel injection with ignition controls and timing. The cam sensor uses a single vane driven by the camshaft to send a signal to the PCM. On 5.4L DOHC if one of the timing chains is off by one tooth you will experience this problem. Wrong cam shaft with the vane in the wrong place will also cause this. Pulse ring slipped over woodruff key and out of position giving false info to crank sensor, On 5.4lL I would suspect a problem with the synchronization between the crank shaft sensor and cam sensor. Recomend check pulse ring on crank shaft dampner and proper location of the single signal vane on the camshaft used by the cam sensor. If your going to show this to your mechanics, mention dead time the engine and verify proper alignment of timing marks, camshaft vane, and pulse ring on crankshaft. Good luck with it. |
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2001 F 150 111,000 K While pulling a hill, the engine light came on, truck lost power but kept running. Took it in they said needed a tune up. They did plugs and wires (which they said were arcing), fuel filter, air filter. Light went off, ran good for 3-4 days and light came back on, same problem. Low power, drop in gas milage, have let it warm up or it won't run, have to put pedal to the floor to get it to down shift on the highway. Code said that it "fuel lean" or "lean fuel". Anyone have any idea's? Thank you!!
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Replying to: cadaverk9 (Dec 29, 2007 5:28 pm) Most likely causes; ECT sensor faulty(electononic cooling tempurature sensor). Sending signal to PCM that engine is warm when it is actually cold. (This will not set an individual code.) Pulse width of the fuel injectors is determined by this information. EGR valve pintel intermitantly sticking open due to carbon or other malfuction. This will cause a lean condition, and make running the engine very difficult unless you are at wide open throttle on the freeway. Vaccum leak causing lean condition until engine warms and metal componets expand to stop the leak. Intermitant problem with fuel pressure, or low fuel pressure due to a faulty fuel pump. Since you stated that your problem goes away after engine is warmed up, this is very unlikely the problem. Every 60k your EGR is suppose to be serviced and cleaned due to carbon build up. Your ECT sensor is a sepperate sensor from your temp gauge sensor and is used by the PCM to give extra fuel when engine is cold, and kill the engine when over heating occures. One or both of these two things are most likely your problem from the symtom you described. Good luck with it. |
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Replying to: tador (Nov 29, 2007 1:01 pm)
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Replying to: wedell (Jan 09, 2008 3:34 pm) |
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I just bought a 2004 f-150 with the 5.4, 3v, with 60k miles. The truck runs like a top, clean carfax, prior owner reported no problems and local Service manager ran the vin on Ford's system and found only a minor recall for a check engine light when the truck was 3 months old. Before buying, the oil looked good on the stick,but when I changed the oil and pulled the filler cap on the valve cover, it was full of "cream" indicative of moisture in the oil. I have seen on another forum that short drives (wife drives about 4 miles, one way, to work) in cold weather, the engine does not generate enough heat to cook off the condensation in the engine. The oil from the pan did not show any indication of water. Is there a solution to this, short of having her drive 12 miles out of the way to work just to build heat?
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The truck just wont climb a hill. Downshifts and slows down to about 30mph. RPMs never go over 2500 to 2800. Even when I pop it in nuetral - no more rpms. I have to nurse it from a stop to about 50 on the flats. If it starts to loose speed it will downshift and go even slower. Can't pass anything if I try it downshifts and revs to about 2500 and slows down. Dont think it is a tranny problem because if I throw it into nuetral the rpms dont go up or go up very slowly. The engine idles fine and does not have a miss. Help
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