Last post on Mar 28, 2013 at 6:45 PM
You are in the Ford F-Series
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Ford F-150, Ford F-250, Ford F-350, Engine, Truck
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#231 of 252 Re: 1999 f-250 hesitation at WOT [davyray]
Oct 03, 2010 (7:17 pm)
We replaced the ignition coils and this fixed the problem of hesitation at WOT. Threw a lot of money attempting to diagnose the problem at 3 different shops.
#232 of 252 Re: 2002 FORD 5.4L ENGINE MAKING NOISE [mike4578]
Oct 07, 2010 (2:18 pm)
My gf's truck is a 01 with the 5.4 and it had a fast tapping noise it almost got to a buzz, but not that close. My brother, a mechanic, has a stethoscope which we held on the valve cover where the PCV valve was and thought it was the cam, but we move the stethoscope on the PCV valve and it was so loud it the stethoscope. So i pulled the vaccum hose off a it quit, so i replaced it and that was it. I suggest getting a mechanics stethoscope and hold it where the noise is the loudest. Hope that helps.
#233 of 252 Ford F 150 2005 5.4
Oct 30, 2010 (9:28 pm)
have their been engine problems, mine has a nois e that sounds like lifters to me. i changed oil since I just bought the vehicle. It has 140000 on it. runs great but at slow idle has what sounds like a lifter noise. Oil was really dirty so I thought maybe fresh oil may stop the sound.???????? anybody got any ideas
#234 of 252 Re: Ford F 150 2005 5.4 [ebutenhoff]
Nov 02, 2010 (5:56 pm)
Does the noise get louder when you rev it up?
#235 of 252 Re: Failed Injectors [mad17]
Nov 08, 2010 (6:39 pm)
Disconnect one end and drill a small hole (1/4-1/2 inch) through the middle of the honeycomb inside. The truck will breath better and, due to the small hole, your emissions will be fine as well. You will still have back pressure to preserve your piston rings. Sure cheaper than an $800 new one. Play dumb if caught.
Note...wear a good dust mask. Those insides are toxic. Cadmium and all sorts of nastiness.
#236 of 252 F350 cold start problems
Nov 10, 2010 (2:57 pm)
I Have a f350 6,8 V10. the problem i seem to have is when it starts getting cold at this time of year the motor will not start at any temperature 8c & below so when it gets to "0" ive got NO chance. Ive changed the ECT sensor cleaned the MAF sensor & the air filter but all to no avail it still won,t start. When i finally get it started and it gets warmed up it dosen,t miss a beat. Can anyone help....
#237 of 252 90 ford truck
Jul 19, 2011 (4:00 pm)
Have a 90 ford f-150 with 5.0 after it starts to warm up it jerks and jumps under load.the owner put alot of new parts on the truck plugs,wires,cap,rotor,etc. had a leak in EGR tube and it was running ruff so we replaced it. It seems to run better and also quieter but still the same problem.I know they had problems with the dist. any thoughts?
#238 of 252 Re: 90 ford truck [gabby16]
Jul 20, 2011 (3:25 pm)
Check your secondary ignition. Bout $20 at any autoparts store. It is either on the side of the dist or its on the firewall. It is a rectangular box with a flat pin connector on it. If its on the dist you will have to pull the dist to get it out, be sure to mark the timing before you start. I would also check the ignition coil.
#239 of 252 F150 5.4 broken spake plugs
Jul 21, 2011 (8:52 pm)
My truck is in Ford shop to replace plugs. Get call from shop number 4 & 8 plugs broke. Shop says unable to extract plugs without pulling engine cost 1400 dollars. Any ideas on a simple and cheap solution.
#240 of 252 Re: F150 5.4 broken spake plugs [tddmurphy55]
Jul 23, 2011 (9:02 am)
Bull....Im an ASE technician. This is a common issue with this because Ford made the thread length of the plugs too short and carbon builds up and locks them in there.
You have a choice to spend lots of money or try some tricks of the trade.
Use a MAP gas torch and heat up the spark plug and aluminum area where it screws in. After its hot try and tighten it a little and then loosen it. Keep repeating this working the plug back and forth until you can get them out. These rear plugs are hard to drill out because they are in the back but it can be done at a last resort. Use a vaccum cleaner and ducktape a hose that will fit down the hole to remove any pieces and a tiny magnet tool ect. Poor oil in the cyclinder and crank the engine over with the starter repeatedly to allow any crap that fell into the cylinder to escape through the open hole or exhuast valve. Repair any damaged threads with thread repair inserts. Im a mobile mechanic and this is a common repair that I get. I would save a customer like you at least a thousand dollars on this repair. Good luck.