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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

163 messages, Last post on Oct 15, 2009 at 9:39 PM
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Replying to: lewscrew (Jul 24, 2009 6:17 am) |
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Replying to: lewscrew (Jul 24, 2009 6:17 am) You already replaced the EGR so that wasn't it. If it is an electrical problem, ouch very hard to diagnose. Other causes and most common are DPFE (Differential Presure Fedback EGR sensor) or EVR (Electronic vaccum Regulator to EGR) I know a real mouth full. 1st: If you are not experiencing weird idle changes along with this trouble code, it is unlikely that the EVR is malfuctioning. It could be not working at all and not opening the EGR with vaccum. This is the cheaper sensor too. About $35 2nd: On your exhuast manifold are 2 tubes one bigger than the other leading up to the DPFE. This sensor reads back pressure changes in the exhuast when the EGR is told to open. If the signal is not correct, bingo....t-code. Check to see if the tubes are clogged up or if one of the hoses came off the DPFE sensor. This sensor isnt cheap! If you have an exhuast leak, fix it. Insufficient back pressure in the exhuast can throw this sensor off also. You seem like a smart guy. After each test repair reset PCM and test drive. Keep track of what you have eliminated as the cause such as the EGR. This may take some time to figure out. I do this for a living and this t-code can be a bastard sometimes. One way of testing the EVR is to temporarely install a vaccum guage inline with a vaccum tee to your EGR and put the guage so you can see it. Drive and look for vaccum being applied and changing by the system while your driving around.. Get back to me if you want me detail how to test the DPFE. I have the right equipment, but it can be tested other ways, its just hard that way. Good luck. |
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| A few days ago my engine light came on and the engine started missing. Today the engine started missing worse and the light started flashing. After I stopped the engine and restarted it the light was off and it didnt miss anymore. Any ideas what's going on? | |
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Have an 1987 F250 4x4, 302V8,4sp. trans., reg. cab. The thing runs fine for the first 1/2hr. or hr. of the day, then it starts running really rough in the low RPM's. I have to about floor it to take off in 1st gear when I used to take off in 2nd gear. The RPM's also fluctuate when idilng and sometimes it will just die driving down the road at which this point I switch to the other tank and that keeps me going but still runs the same. Checked the timing the plugs, and looked for any bad vaccuum lines but can't seem to make things any better. Would appreciate any advice from anyone. Thanks. |
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Replying to: nairb (Aug 29, 2009 12:06 am)
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Replying to: nairb (Aug 29, 2009 12:06 am)
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Replying to: notlob (Aug 29, 2009 2:59 am) |
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Replying to: mike9408 (Aug 29, 2009 4:57 am) air filter and its fine. And according to my Haynes manual, F250's w/EFI have non- servicable or replacable fuel filters. Thats what I was thinking the problem could be because I do run both my tanks down to fumes quite often. |
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| My truck has 142,000 miles on it and recently the truck died for no reason. It happened again about a month later. I replaced the fuel filter and didn't solve the problem. The pump turns on and speeds up as rpms increase. Sometimes it won't stay running, other times it runs like there is no problem. I am so hesitant to take it to the dealership who has misled me in the past. (catastrophic electrical failure) Plus i am hoping to do the repair myself. By the way no error codes | |
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Went to check my antifreeze in my truck to see what it was good to (protection below zero), and when I pulled the gauge out of the radiator neck, it had yellowish oil-like residue all over it. I know when you blow a head gasket, the oil on the dip- stick might have H2o/antifreeze on it. Is this possibly the same problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.Thanks. |
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