Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

Replying to: screwedbygm (Sep 15, 2009 4:46 pm)

Replying to: wantanewcar2 (Sep 30, 2009 3:12 pm)

Not sure what your original post was, but from your "dashboard disco" heading I am guessing it has to do with your instrument panel playing up.
 
From that guess, two scenarios come to mind in order of ease to fix:
 
1) The "plug" that connects the speedometer & tacometer cable to the transmission has jarred loose. On my vehicle the plastic "locking" clip has deteriorated causing the "plug" to jar loose when I was driving on an unpaved road. It took me a while to figure out why I was doing 120 MPH one second and 20 MPH - or even standing still the next - all while traveling at a constant velocity. But once I figured it out, it was a simple matter of plugging it back in and avoiding unpaved roads. The "plug" is located on the transmission body facing the front of the vehicle - at least on my Dodge GC it is - and should be accessible from around the left-front-wheel. You may need to jack the car up and secure it on some stands - or drive both front wheel onto some blocks on an even level surface so you can crawl underneath. Of course, do this when the engine is cool, or else you may cause yourself some major burns. I just "plugged" my plug back in and haven't had any challenges since, but I have also not been on any unpaved roads since, either. If "off-roading" is unavoidable for you, you can buy a new plug and "splice" it in, but only the dealers sell them and charge the monopoly price of about $51.00 just for the part - plastic plug with some wires attached. Installation is extra if you don't do it yourself. If you are a DIYer you may try a wrecking yard if you don't want to fork over $50+ . . . or you could get some "goop" or "glue" to keep it in place.
 
2) The instrument cluster circuit board has some broken solder points causing a bad connection or failed communication when ambient temperatures change, You will know if you have this problem because sometimes your car will start (when the instruments work) and sometimes it won't (when the instruments don't work). If you have an anti-theft system on your vehicle, you have probably also come across the "three starts and then dead" fiasco - when you turn the key the engine starts and then immediately dies. After three tries, NOTHING. The first three dies is the fuel-pump relay shutting down because the computer senses a "communication" malfunction. The DEAD part is the security system kicking in because it thinks there may be an attempt to steal/hot-wire the vehicle, so it shuts everything down.
 
The fix for this is to remove the instrument cluster and examine every solder point on each of the TWO circuit boards - back and front - that control the instrument cluster. Any cracked - or questionable - solder points should be re-soldered. If your situation is similar to the one I experienced, this should do the trick. To do this yourself you will need the following:
 
1) a Philip Screw Driver
2) a small Soldering Iron
3) some Solder
4) possibly a Magnifying Glass
5) a Steady Hand
6) some faith in yourself : )
7) or a kind friend or neighbor willing to help out
 
Cost for all of these tools - if you don't already have them - is less than $10.00 at Harbor Freight. If you solicit your neighbor you may want to budget a little extra for the thank-you gift : )
 
And to get to the Instrument Cluster, scroll down a few posts to DodgeNightmare's response to "Screwed by GM's" post where I explain the procedure for removing the Dashboard Trim.
 
And apparently the reason for the solder points cracking in the first place is a bad manufacturing batch. The solder points were soldered too cold, causing them to be weak and to crack over time. Ambient temperature changes cause the cracks to expand and contract, explaining the on-again off-again phenomenon. Car companies won't recall them because it is not a life threat, and therefore not an ominous legal issue.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Dodge Nightmare

Replies to this message:
• wantanewcar2 (Nov 19, 2009 8:13 am)
  • xwesx (Nov 19, 2009 1:00 pm)
    • kochese (Nov 19, 2009 6:13 pm)

Replies to this message:
• xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 9:59 am)
  • kochese (Oct 29, 2009 1:31 pm)
    • xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 2:07 pm) and 3 more...

Replying to: kochese (Oct 29, 2009 6:09 am)

This may be the connector on your console circuit. If you remove the connector, clean it, perhaps add some dielectric grease, and reassemble, it may resolve the issue.
 
Does your horn work? If not, the airbag light may be due to a bad clock spring, which is what maintains the electrical connection between your steering column and wheel.
 
Master plumber/heat/AC huh? I need to install my boiler to the radiant heating system in my house.... including all the manifolds, etc. Do you know of any books that explain this process? I cannot seem to find any; or, it may be that I am using the wrong search terminology....

Replies to this message:
• kochese (Oct 29, 2009 1:31 pm)
  • xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 2:07 pm)
    • kochese (Oct 29, 2009 2:41 pm) and 2 more...

Replying to: xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 9:59 am)

Replies to this message:
• xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 2:07 pm)
  • kochese (Oct 29, 2009 2:41 pm)
    • xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 3:51 pm) and 1 more...

Replying to: wantanewcar2 (Sep 30, 2009 3:12 pm)

Replying to: kochese (Oct 29, 2009 1:31 pm)

I am not sure how to change the clock spring; I suspect you will have to remove the steering wheel. I will check my repair manual this even to find out... if I think about it! With young children and a stay-at-home wife, my evenings are often quickly commandeered!
 
The connector for the HVAC controls is located just behind the space where your lights are blinking. A few screws holds that portion of the console in place; remove them, pull the face plate forward, and you cannot miss the connector. But, it may simply be the clock spring that is causing your problems, since the controls for cruise are located on the wheel, too! The blinking console lights may indicate that you need to run the diagnostics on the HVAC (I listed those a couple months ago somewhere on this forum.... ). That process is pretty simple and will tell you if there is a problem. The good news is those blinking lights will not affect the driveability or operation of the van or its components.
 
As for the boiler, no, this is a new installation. The only parts of the system that I have are the tubes in the concrete and the boiler itself (a condensing, oil-fired Monitor). I have to do all the installation including the zone control thermostats, valves, manifolds, etc. I usually find myself a good book and learn that way, but I cannot seem to find one for hydronic heating systems.

Replies to this message:
• kochese (Oct 29, 2009 2:41 pm)
  • xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 3:51 pm)
    • kochese (Oct 30, 2009 2:53 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 2:07 pm)

Replies to this message:
• xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 3:51 pm)
  • kochese (Oct 30, 2009 2:53 pm)

Replying to: kochese (Oct 29, 2009 2:41 pm)

Ah, I skipped that phase. Here in Alaska, we often do things a little differently than the civilized world.
 
There is a Johnstone Supply in Anchorage, which is a mere 350 miles away. I will check them out this winter when I am next down that way.

Replies to this message:
• kochese (Oct 30, 2009 2:53 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Oct 29, 2009 3:51 pm)

LOL oh ok yea they should have it but i'll d/l some stuff 4 you and post it ., and come to think of it ,the cars gas gage was the very 1st thing that started when we filled it up it used to go to the empty to full spot and the bell would ring up and down.and yes i recall the speedometer jumping..