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Vans & Minivans Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems
379 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 6:13 PM
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Replying to: wantanewcar2 (Sep 29, 2009 5:21 pm) I plan on trading it in ASAP and crossing my fingers that it doesn't act up when the dealer checks it out. I also had a problem where the headlights kept turning off while driving and sometimes they would stay on. It would take multiple turns of the switch to get them on or off. I replaced the switch and that solved the issue. |
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Replying to: wantanewcar2 (Sep 29, 2009 5:21 pm) i had got gas a few hours before and never checked the cap like i should have ...at swiftys gas station they pump the gas and never tightened my cap good it will cause the computer ( the brain ) of the vehicle to shut its self down after about 3 miles or when ever it decides to if its not tightened. these newer vehicles have built in self diagnostic computer control modules also called dccm's in some cases if it senses an error it will do everything in the world to cause its self to stop if it cant be corrected internally via electronics .....on the same note have your abs and airbag lights also been comming on ? email personally and I will help to correct the issues before you get rid of the van(s) and vehicles just put automotive problems as the subject truckinforjesus  windstream.net P.S the automotive industries say they put that on there to save you gas cause cars burn the vapors and a loose capp will leak the vapors however i think they are doing it just to get more repair bill and money from us their customers. |
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Replying to: wantanewcar2 (Sep 29, 2009 5:21 pm) |
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I have a 1999 T&C LXI with the overdrive transaxle, and a week ago it began downshifting hard after stopping. I hooked it to an Actron scantool to check for trouble codes, and it reported "transaxle control system fault" explanation ECM recieved a signal that the transaxle control module has a fault. It also reported "input speed sensor (ISS) 1 circuit" explanation The ECM has detected that the input speed signal changed suddenly. The simtum is if the car is driving in the upper gears, and you come to a full stop, the trans downshifts seconds later instead of while the car is slowing to a stop. It shifts hard into the low gear with a bump that feels like someone has tapped the rear of the car. Any thoughts as to if the sensor must be changed or if this needs to be handled by a transmission shop?
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My 99' van has the airbag warning light lit on dash and the horn can't be blown from the steering wheel but it blows when you set the door locks/alarm. The steering wheel radio adjustment buttons also stopped working along with the cruise control. The cruis control stopped first a month before the airbag light lit, so it may not be related. I'm tempted to remove the airbag and wheel just to se if it is a broken contact in the steering colume. When attaching the van to a Actron scantool, nothing is reported by the code tool about the horn or airbag. No fuses are blown.
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Replying to: jimi55lp (Sep 30, 2009 8:30 am) |
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Replying to: jimi55lp (Sep 30, 2009 8:21 am) |
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Thanks for the responses and I guess there is some comfort in knowing I am not alone. I just picked up the van from the dealer. 3 days in the shop and they still have no idea what it could be. They did offer to completely dismantle the entire electrical system in my van to diagnose it. This could take "days to weeks to figure it out, and that would be at $95 hour". Really? not sure if that is a gamble I want to take given that it has been in the shop 5 times for an average of 3 days each time and they have no clue. Given the number of people with this problem (or one similar) I find it shocking that some mechanic somewhere has not solved this problem! If anyone actually has a solution please let us all know!
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Replying to: screwedbygm (Sep 15, 2009 4:46 pm) 1) You first have to remove the "leg" fascia under the steering wheel - there are at least two (2) screws keeping this in place at the lower end, and two (2) behind the park-brake release lever. Another screw is located on the driver door side - open the door to get access to it. Once all the screws are removed, the "leg" fascia clips out at the upper end on either side of the steering column. 2) Now you can access and undo the screws that are keeping the "dashboard trim" in place. There are a couple of screws at the lower part beside/on each side of the steering wheel/column. They become visible & accessible once the "leg" fascia is removed. There is also a screw behind the air-duct port that feeds the driver door. Open the door to see/access the port. Once you have removed the screws around the "park-brake release lever" - as explained above - you should be able to gently pry the port molding lose. With the port-molding removed, you should be able to access what I believe is the last screw. But double check to see if you can find any others - I am not looking at my car as I am typing this and am going from memory. 3) once ALL the screws have been removed, you can "gently pry" the trim lose from around the center vents - to the right of the steering wheel, above the radio and other gadget console. On my vehicle there are no screws in this area to remove. It is just kept in place with re-socket-able clips. Hope that helps. If not, go to any auto-parts store and get a repair manual for your vehicle - they are about $20 and very handy to have. Good luck. Dodge Nightmare |
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Replying to: wantanewcar2 (Sep 30, 2009 3:12 pm) From that guess, two scenarios come to mind in order of ease to fix: 1) The "plug" that connects the speedometer & tacometer cable to the transmission has jarred loose. On my vehicle the plastic "locking" clip has deteriorated causing the "plug" to jar loose when I was driving on an unpaved road. It took me a while to figure out why I was doing 120 MPH one second and 20 MPH - or even standing still the next - all while traveling at a constant velocity.  But once I figured it out, it was a simple matter of plugging it back in and avoiding unpaved roads.  The "plug" is located on the transmission body facing the front of the vehicle - at least on my Dodge GC it is - and should be accessible from around the left-front-wheel. You may need to jack the car up and secure it on some stands - or drive both front wheel onto some blocks on an even level surface so you can crawl underneath. Of course, do this when the engine is cool, or else you may cause yourself some major burns. I just "plugged" my plug back in and haven't had any challenges since, but I have also not been on any unpaved roads since, either. If "off-roading" is unavoidable for you, you can buy a new plug and "splice" it in, but only the dealers sell them and charge the monopoly price of about $51.00 just for the part - plastic plug with some wires attached. Installation is extra if you don't do it yourself. If you are a DIYer you may try a wrecking yard if you don't want to fork over $50+ . . . or you could get some "goop" or "glue" to keep it in place. 2) The instrument cluster circuit board has some broken solder points causing a bad connection or failed communication when ambient temperatures change, You will know if you have this problem because sometimes your car will start (when the instruments work) and sometimes it won't (when the instruments don't work). If you have an anti-theft system on your vehicle, you have probably also come across the "three starts and then dead" fiasco - when you turn the key the engine starts and then immediately dies. After three tries, NOTHING. The first three dies is the fuel-pump relay shutting down because the computer senses a "communication" malfunction. The DEAD part is the security system kicking in because it thinks there may be an attempt to steal/hot-wire the vehicle, so it shuts everything down. The fix for this is to remove the instrument cluster and examine every solder point on each of the TWO circuit boards - back and front - that control the instrument cluster. Any cracked - or questionable - solder points should be re-soldered. If your situation is similar to the one I experienced, this should do the trick. To do this yourself you will need the following: 1) a Philip Screw Driver 2) a small Soldering Iron 3) some Solder 4) possibly a Magnifying Glass 5) a Steady Hand 6) some faith in yourself : ) 7) or a kind friend or neighbor willing to help out Cost for all of these tools - if you don't already have them - is less than $10.00 at Harbor Freight. If you solicit your neighbor you may want to budget a little extra for the thank-you gift : ) And to get to the Instrument Cluster, scroll down a few posts to DodgeNightmare's response to "Screwed by GM's" post where I explain the procedure for removing the Dashboard Trim. And apparently the reason for the solder points cracking in the first place is a bad manufacturing batch. The solder points were soldered too cold, causing them to be weak and to crack over time. Ambient temperature changes cause the cracks to expand and contract, explaining the on-again off-again phenomenon. Car companies won't recall them because it is not a life threat, and therefore not an ominous legal issue. Hope this helps. Dodge Nightmare 
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