Last post on Nov 26, 2013 at 7:31 AM
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Chrysler Town and Country, Dodge Caravan, Electrical, Van
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#114 of 659 Re: Chrysler Town & Country Electrical problems Headlights, & inst.Cluster [tcproblems]
Oct 05, 2007 (6:31 am)
I had a 1998 T&C Limited. The car died one day and would not start. After replacing two ECM computers, the first one at my cost, the car worked most of the time.
Then we had more and more occassions where the instrument panel would be dark when trying to start the car. After researching the internet, I found that several folks had been able to fix this problem by resoldering the heavy pins that are part of the grounding system on the back of the instrument cluster. Fixed!!!!
Be aware that the dealers are all too quick to replace computers when the more likely causes are sensors and wiring connectors. The Chrysler data bus has to detect all computers up and running, any one down and the car won't start. The instrument cluster has its own computer and it was not working hence the non start.
I loved that car, unfortunately it was totalled in an accident. We bought a 2005 T&C hoping that the Germans finally got it right. Unfortunately, now I have rock hard leather seats (that looks and feels more like pleather).
The 2005's locks have stopped working!!! Aurghhh!!!!
#115 of 659 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Door Locks
Oct 05, 2007 (2:20 pm)
I found a fix for this problem on the internet - (ain't it wonderful!!!!). Turns out the computer can get confused about a door lock actuator problem which will disable the locks (horn, lights, memory seats all change but no locks). Remove the IOD fuse which is located in the fuse block next to the battery for 30 seconds. problem fixed. There is supposedly a software upgrade available from Chrysler for $100 or more that fixes it. But I'll wait and see if it is enough of a headache that the software needs to be done. Removing the fuse takes all of one minute or so.
#116 of 659 T&C Electrical/Starting Issue
Oct 08, 2007 (7:24 pm)
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town & Country Mini-van. A couple of years ago I started having problems with it starting. It would begin to start & then try to cutout for a few seconds & then die. This typically happened on very hot days. Recently it has gone to where the engine will crank but it will not start. If I pop the hood, open the relay box, remove the "Starter" relay, leave it out a few seconds, then put it back in place and crank it --- it will start right up. A guy at an Auto store said that it has something to do with the Safety Check circuit check that it goes through before starting. Please help. My local Dodge Dealer wanted to put a new computer in it??? Some how removing the Starter Relay appears to be resetting a circuit or something. Any help would be appreciated.
#117 of 659 Re: T&C Electrical/Starting Issue [robopolo]
Oct 09, 2007 (4:30 am)
My 1998 T&C did the same thing. After the dealer replaced two ECM's (one at my expense - $700), the problem persisted. The dealer kept the car for a week, checked all the wiring and found nothing. The start sequence disables the starter after 5 failed starts (antitheft feature). My instrument panel would be dark during these events. Turns out there are some ground connections on the back of the panel that were cold solder joints. I removed the panel and resoldered them (you'll need the factory manual). Problem fixed! This car will not start if all computers aren't talking to each other. The instrument panel has a computer in it too. Good luck. Resist changing the computer - that is their quick fix - but from what I have seen on these forums, seldom fixes the problem.
#118 of 659 Re: 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Door Locks [romott]
Oct 09, 2007 (5:20 pm)
Thank you so very much for your post!!! I had the same problem today with my 2005 Town and Country. I just went out after reading your thought and IT WORKED! You saved me a trip to the dealership. Thank you again!
#119 of 659 Re: 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Door Locks [romott]
Oct 20, 2007 (9:16 am)
I just wanted to thank you for your posting about the IOD fuse and the door locks. Ours quit working yesterday. After searching on the internet, I found your post. We did what you said, took out the fuse for 30 seconds, put it back in and the locks worked!!!!!!! Thank you very, very much. I hope your post will help others too.
#120 of 659 Re: 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Door Locks [jeffnks]
Oct 20, 2007 (9:36 am)
Unfortunately, this appears to be a temporary fix. My locks quit working again in 3-4 days. Removing the fuse fixes it only temporarily. I went to my dealer, and he admitted that they see this problem daily after I pointed out that there were a number of folks on the internet that said they had this problem and therefore, it was a common problem that Chrysler needs to fix. Apparently the programming makes a bad assumption about every day, long term operation of the locks and the programming that is in the BCM to monitor the health of the locks.
He said that Chrysler says it is not a safety or emissions problem, so they won't fix it for free. I got the car back saying they had flashed the BCM meaning they had reprogrammed it, but there was no charge! Hooray, but wait, its not fixed! The locks quit working yesterday!!!! You'd think that after paying megabucks for a very well equipped car, at least the door locks would work as advertised.
#121 of 659 Re: 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Door Locks [romott]
Nov 01, 2007 (4:08 pm)
Thank you so much for posting this. I have had problems with my locks not working for 3 months. My brother tried replacing some of the other fuses, as a matter of fact that 10d is probably the only one we didn't try. I thought I was going to have to take it to the dealer and pay thier big price to fix it. I decided to try one more time to see if i could find something on the net, and I found you post and it worked. thanks again.
#122 of 659 2001 Dodge Caravan Headlight Problems
Nov 12, 2007 (3:40 pm)
I have 2001 Dodge Caravan and for the past year I have been having headlight problems; when I turn the engine on, the daytime running lights; the left lights is on, when I turn the lights on the left on one goes out and the right one comes on, when I turn on the high beams...they both work. My local Dodge dealer said they will look at it but it sounds like an electrical problem and could cost $1000. I took out the headlights myself and cleaned them and put in new bulbs and I still have the problem...both turn signals work and so do both side reflector lights. Anyone have any ideas? Desperate Julesb
#123 of 659 98 T&C Security Lockout - FIXED!!!
Nov 15, 2007 (7:50 pm)
Several months ago, my 98 T&C began to start, run for about 5 seconds, then die. After about five attempts at this, it would no longer even turn over. At first, after about an hour, it would start and run. I thought it had something to do with the remote door opener, so I stopped using it. The problem happened more and more often, and the wait time before it would start became longer and longer. Recently, I took the van to the local dealer so they could figure out what was causing the problem. They did some "recall" repairs, but they could not figure out the problem with the security system. They told me they thought it was in a wiring harness, but they were not sure. They were willing to see if replacing the wiring harness would fix the problem, at a cost of at least $1,500. Needless to say, I was not willing to participate in a $1,500 experiment. I got the van back from the dealer, and it started for about a week. Then it did its old trick again. This time, after it sat behind my house for over three weeks, it still would not even turn over.
Last Saturday, I removed the instrument cluster. To remove the cluster, I had to remove a connector from a socket more or less in the middle of a printed circuit board (PCB) on the back of the instrument cluster. Inside this socket there were pins (at least nine). The solder joints that connect the pins to the PCB circuitry are on the "back" of the PCB. With the naked eye, I could not see any problems with the solder joints around the pins. However, using a strong magnifying glass, I could see small cracks in the solder around the pins. I re-soldered all the joints around the pins, and put the cluster back in the van. The van has been starting flawlessly ever since!!!
THANK YOU to the folks who posted the information about this fix. I have no idea how somebody found the problem with the solder joints on the PCB, but I am certainly glad they did.