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Hyundai Azera Audio and Entertainment

565 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 3:32 PM
You are in the Hyundai Azera Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: justinrw (Dec 24, 2008 6:12 am) If you wish to try and move the wire yourself...memory is fuzzy on it, but I believe it needs to be in the 3rd location from the left on the bottom row of wires (holding the harness with the wires facing you). That 3rd spot on the bottom is empty now (if memory serves me correctly). Another way you can work around it is to use a jumper wire from the red wire to the factory amp turn on wire. You can use splice connectors to achieve this, but it makes the wiring look crazy and it's a bit more work for yourself. If not...be patient while you get the harness issue taken care of. Oh yeah, one more FYI...with the new unit in place, you'll notice your speakers will distort if you play your music loud. The new unit is putting out a bit more power than the factory one and it's more effecient as well. You may find yourself wanting to upgrade your speakers so the output can keep up with the source. If so...here's a guide for replacing the factory speakers too: Replacing Door Speakers In A Hyundai Azera To get the optimum performance out of the factory amp, you'll want to go with speakers that have a 2 ohm impedence. Currently, the only ones I know of that offer that are Infinity Kappa Series, the newer Infinity Reference Series, JBL GTO Series and JBL Power Series. |
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I have replaced the door speakers with JBL/Infinity and even though there's an improvement in the overall quality of the sound I feel the OEM headunit performes very poor and would like to ask those of you who have already replaced it to compare the before and after in terms of pure sound (not features and sound shaping capabilities)! I am also wondering if I can manage to install a 1 DIN unit in the small glove compartment below the AC controls without too much modifications - did anybody try that?
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Replying to: megarock (Jan 12, 2009 10:50 pm) Almost any aftermarket unit you go with will offer better performance simply because the power output is going to be higher than that of the OEM. You figure the OEM unit is producing no more than about 5-7 watts rms and then the factory amp is boosting that signal by by 45 watts rms. If you get a good aftermarket unit, you're looking at a power boost of anywhere from 14-18 watts rms. Anyway, I have pulled mine and replaced with the Pioneer FH-P4200MP double din unit. I selected this unit because it offers the ability to set different cut-off frequencies between the front and rear speakers as well as the subwoofer as well. I've had a Kenwood unit before, but it only allowed you to set the high-pass filter to the front & rear (same setting) and low-pass to the sub. Not only that, the unit I have also has a 9 band graphic eq to allow me to make adjustments all the way from 50 Hz (low) up to 12.5 kHz (high). Another nice feature the unit has is that you can select a seating option so the sound adjusts to center the sound to where you're sitting (front left, front right, front & all) I really don't use that feature because it does change the sound a little bit. The other advantage to the unit I have is that it plays all formats of music (MP3, WMA & AAC). You can play burned CD's as well as CD-RW's. Lastly, it does offer an AUX input to hook up another source, MP3 player, DVD player or whatever. There are plenty on the market that have a lot to offer, XM, Bluetooth, builtin iPod control, Nav, DVD...the works. The question is...how much do you want to spend and what exactly are you looking for. If you have any more questions, please...let me know. Mike |
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Hello all. I have been enjoying the upgraded sound system I put into my Azera, but recently I had been listening to some songs and when the music would hit certain frequencies...I would get a vibration from the speakers. I pulled the door panels and watched the speaker perform during those songs and realized that the adapter ring that comes with the speakers I have (Infinity Kappas) is really cheap, flimsy and adds to the ability for the speaker to vibrate. The solution...pulling the speakers out, removing the adapter rings and re-installing the speakers using 3/4" MDF (hearty birch ply-wood would work as well). I marked an 8" circle, then centered the speaker using the adapter ring as my guide. Cut out the speaker opening, then cut out the ring. I held it up in place, drilled a hole within 1/2" from the outer edge of the ring to ensure it would drill through the door panel as well, ran some 1" screws to secure the ring to the door panel (Make sure you have run your speaker wires behind the ring and out of the way of anywhere you might be drilling or installing screws). I then put the speaker in the opening the way I wanted to mount it, marked the hole locations, drilled the holes, connected the speaker wires and screwed the speaker into place. The difference...watching the speaker handle some of the lower frequencies (when the woofer moves a lot) the plastic ring flexes with the action of the woofer and it's like a ripple effect going into the door panel. With the wood ring, the only thing moving is the woofer cone as the wood is much more rigid, it absorbs the energy from the speaker basket (frame). I think I will pull them off and run a bead of latex caulk under each ring to seal it to the door panel as well. So...if you have done the speaker upgrade and you get a "buzzing" noise when you listen to certain songs...that could very well be a very low cost, simple solution to resolve the issue. Let me know if you come up with the same results. Mike |
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When I bought my ipod a couple of weeks ago, the Apple salesperson went online to determine cable needed to hook up with 2007 Azera sound system. Bought the cable, but see nothing in the manual re installation. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
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Replying to: rance2 (Mar 01, 2009 5:00 am) Found the picture, check out Edmund's Sonata Audio posting #217. |
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Was sold Monster iCable for Car. Will ask dealer and have them install.
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Replying to: rance2 (Mar 01, 2009 6:47 am) Perhaps some others can post their experiences. |
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When you say "no installation cost" ... does that mean dealer includes installation in cost of cable, or easy to install myself?
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Replying to: rance2 (Mar 01, 2009 8:42 am) Also, post #304 in this forum would seem to indicate no input port to the back of the radio. That would mean that the Monster Cable is not going to work either. |
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