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Toyota 4Runner Transmission Problems

145 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 12:07 PM
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I have a 2000 Toyota 4-Runner V6 with 140,000+ miles. Just about 25,000 mile ago, I had my vehicle in for service and they drained the transmission, checked for ware fragments, flushed the torque converter and refilled it. A few weeks went by before I started having problems with the transmission. I backed out of the drive just fine then put it in drive. Sometime and it doesn't happen often, the car won't pull forward in drive. If I put the truck in 1st or 2nd gear, it pull forward just fine. Once having driven to the top of the driveway, the vehicle will work just fine in drive and drive fine the rest of the day. It only appears to happen first thing in the morning or after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours. The first time it happened, I had the vehicle towed into the dealership but by the time it got there, it worked just fine. Any suggestion would be helpful.
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| I have a '97 4Runner with about 117,000 miles that lately is reluctant to go into Drive when it is cold. I can back out of the garage OK, but when I put it in Drive, the transmission doesn't engage. I need to rev the engine a bit, and then it "slams" in with a jolt and big noise. It only does it when cold, once it is warm, it is fine. I have added transmission fluid but it wasn't very low, and didn't make any difference. I am afraid it will not go in at all sometime and I will be stuck. Suggestions? | |
| My 2008 4 Runner had only 1800 miles on it. Car would not engage drive after backing up for about 5 seconds, long seconds. Seemed to do it more when hot. Took back to dealer. Had to drive with a tech before problems was "seen". They adjusted the netural safety switch. So far the car has been good. I have my fingers crossed as the problem was not constant. | |
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Replying to: scottcrafton (Sep 24, 2008 9:40 am)
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| My Toyota has 210000 miles, in need of help to figure out whats going on. The gears are taking longer to engage, and feel slugish when I am doing 50-60 miles per hour as if the RPMs are going over 3500. I also hear a "clicking sound" when idle at 20 miles per hr. My mechanic could not pin point the problem, and chnged the oil & filter with out solving the problem however when it first happened the needle to check the fluid did came out, but could not get it back in, (persistent problem) as if s/thing was stuck. | |
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Replying to: bandit10 (Apr 22, 2008 6:56 pm) Sorry it took so long to answer. Replaced complete clutch Assy and am running strong. Up to 275,000 miles the other day and yea, driving 90-105 everyday is great and even better since gas has gone down. Wish you could do the same. Big thanks for the info, great forum. Calvin |
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Replying to: soonerlp (Dec 11, 2007 5:19 pm) I will presume the automatic transmission is in need of repair/replacement. Without taking a look at the shop manual, can the transmission be removed *without* pulling the engine as well? TIA.
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Replying to: scotthi (Oct 06, 2008 6:45 pm) |
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| The final diagnosis was not the transmission at all. The rear bearing seals were leaking so the rear brakes were binding. They aren't effective in reverse which was why it went backwards OK. But when I put it in drive, the brakes bound and I had to give it a lot of gas to overcome it. Replacing seals, brake pads and emergency brake cured the problem. | |
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Replying to: mindofone (Dec 08, 2008 9:49 am) |
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