Last post on Sep 23, 2013 at 3:55 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#49 of 261 Re: 2002 Dodge Dakota HVAC blower not working [terrys2]
Aug 06, 2007 (4:58 pm)
My 2 cents. I had changed my blower motor resistor a while back when my fan stopped at all speeds on my 2001 quad, 4.7l. That was probably over a yr ago. 3 weeks ago I went to run an errand and again NO fan speed when I went to use my AC. I pulled my replacement resistor pack out and also seen melted plastic at the connector. Both the connector and resistor pack where a little melted together. I had to file off some melted plastic and sanded up the resistor block pins which were also a bit green/corroded. I re-installed the resistor block and the fan works at all speeds again. I really believe when I first replaced the resistor block it sounded like the fan was blowing harder at full speed, ie: more current. I now don't leave my fan on full, knowing that would be the max current going through certain pins as I don't want to create a potential problem knowing that this electrical connection could lead to overheating/fire. Perhaps I'll be ordering the car connector to the resistor block also to avoid a future problem. Ger
#50 of 261 Re: 2002 Dodge Dakota HVAC blower not working [dodgetrukn]
Aug 06, 2007 (5:56 pm)
This is a problem showing up on now older Dakotas.
There are five wires going to the Blower Resistor. Two of them on the very end of the connector are larger gauge wire. What you will typically see is that the end pin in the connector shows signs of copper corrosion. If you inspect the two heavy gauge terminals you will see that some of the stands are broken.
I believe that as the wire deteriorates at the terminal crimp, conductance loss causes the terminal in the connector to over heat. Hence the melted plastic from the resistor pack usually drips down into the mating connector and causes further intermittent connection problems.
Chrysler has a repair kit issued (5017124-AA), but to my eye the large wires supplied in the kit are not the same gauge as the two heavy wires in the harness connector. I've seen this repair last about a year, then the same thing happens again. I'm hoping that by now they have a better fix. Mine is starting to loose the fan intermittently ( '03, 85,000 miles).
Aug 07, 2007 (3:34 pm)
That is the part # for the repair kit they sold me. It came 2 different wire sizes. I will be sure to use the larger wires. How do you get the connector apart to put the new terminals in the new connector?
#52 of 261 A/C compressor relay switch problem
Aug 08, 2007 (4:47 am)
I've got a 96 Dakota on which the A/C compressor wasn't working. In messing around with it, I discovered I could cause it to briefly come on by wiggling the relay switch. I figured the relay was bad so I switched it out with another that was working but still had the same problem. I unhooked the wires going to the relay and by connecting them directly and bypassing the switch can get the compressor to run. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix it?
#53 of 261 Re: ?? [terrys2]
Aug 09, 2007 (2:46 pm)
You don't. A special tool is required to disassemble the connector shell itself.
The connector pin-end of the wires are simply inserted into the rear of the connector body. When fully seated they lock themselves into the shell.
You will notice that the connector in the kit has a thin rubber membrane seal that wasn't on the original connector. This is a moisture shield to prevent premature corrosion of the wires at the terminal crimp. Believe it or not but moisture from inside the cab contributes corrosion of the pins.
As to the blower being an issue, I'm not sure. I've worked on two of these and other people suggested that the blower motor was drawing too much current, thus taking out the blower resistor and/or overheating the wires. Maybe, but after being involved with two motor replacements I am convinced that the old motors were not the problem.
#54 of 261 Re: ?? [dustyk]
Aug 09, 2007 (3:42 pm)
Thanks Dusty. I thought the terminal was to big to go through the seal but it went in just fine. Would a little dielectric grease be a good idea to put in the terminals?
#55 of 261 Re: ?? [terrys2]
Aug 14, 2007 (5:01 pm)
Yes, its probably a good idea. Problems start when moisture attacks the copper wire and subsequent resistance inserts a resistance in the electrical path. In the high position where the blower draws the most current, current begins to heat the wire which starts a spiral event.
#56 of 261 Loss of Blower Fan Speeds/Intermittent Operation After Kit 5017124-AA is In
Aug 14, 2007 (5:22 pm)
The connector and wire repair kit that Chrysler's issued (5017124-AA) to repair burnt terminals and wires to the Blower Motor contains 14 gauge (orange) wire and 16 gauge (purple) wires.
Unfortunately, the problem is the wires that carry current to the motor when in the maximum fan speed position. Basically when the blower is at its highest speed, there is no resistance inserted into the circuit. Switched resistance is used to reduce current flow for the slower fan speeds.
The wire that comes from the motor (pin 2) and the ground wire for the fan circuit (pin 1) are both 12 gauge in the harness. When using the aforementioned repair kit the largest gauge wire supplied are five orange 14 gauge wires. This wire will not be enough to carry the current when the blower is in the highest output position.
I've been using butt connectors to make this repair instead of the splices supplied with the kit. The Dodge techs are telling me that in addition to using the brass crimps in the kit, the wires should be soldered to ensure a absolute connection, and the service manual does indicate that this is the correct method of repair.
I would argue that an adequately rated butt connector will be sufficient, however because of the design of these connectors it is not uncommon to end up with a minute amount of insertion loss due to resistance unless the butt connector connection is perfect. At lower currents it won't be a problem, but at 15 amperes .1 ohms of inserted resistance could generate some heat especially when the fan is operated in the high position for long periods.
Since corrosion due to moisture seems to be the contributing factor, soldering these splices does make sense. However, I'm still firmly convinced that a short length of 14 gauge wire used in the high output circuit is still going to cause a problem long term.
I'm going to contact the Tech Line in the next few days to discuss this issue some more.
#57 of 261 Loss of Blower Fan Speeds/Intermittent Operation After Kit 5017124-AA is In
Aug 14, 2007 (5:40 pm)
I did not like the connectors that came with the kit so I used non insulated butt connectors. I have the proper crimping tool for them so the connections are good. To be sure I always solder the connections. Since the 14 guage wire is so short compared to the length of 12 guage wire in the harness hopefully the additional resistance for about 4 inches of 14 guage will not be a problem. It is back together and working for now. Only time will tell. Thanks for the great information Dusty.
#58 of 261 2000 3.9L V6 Automatic QC A/C stopped working
Aug 21, 2007 (10:21 am)
I am by no means a car or truck person meaning I am not knowledgeable about anything if something goes wrong. However, about two months ago I was driving down the road and the A/C went out. I had no idea what the problem was and I was hoping it was not the compressor. Long story short, it ended up being the fuse that controlled the horn and the A/C clutch. The fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it also needed a freon charge. They put dye in it just in case, but the A/C is working great again. I am fairly certain this helps none of you, but just sharing.