Last post on Sep 23, 2013 at 3:55 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
What is this discussion about?
Dodge Dakota, Truck
May 31, 2010 (4:00 pm)
Today I changed out the waterpump on my 2001 3.9l Dodge Dakota Quad cab. Overall it wentt farly easy until it came time to start it up and admire the handywork I had done.Upon starting it I noticed temp gauge till the check engine light came on. I shut the truck off and checked the expansion tank which hadplenty of fluid in it. I have looked all over the internet and dixcovered the art of burping the cooling system. Every site talked about opening a bleeder. I have yet to locate this bleeder I have been letting the enigine run till the temperature creeps half walf between the midway and heat line in the hopes that whatever air is there will bleed out.Is there another way or a better way of doing this.
#213 of 261 Re: overheating [seabee92]
May 31, 2010 (5:06 pm)
Anytime I've had to bleed a cooling system, I just used the radiator cap. Start with the engine cold, open the cap, and start the engine up. Make sure the heating/cooling system controls are set so that coolant is circulating through the heater core also. Let the engine run until the thermostat opens up and the engine tries to reach normal operating temperature (which it may not do with the cap off and the system unpressurized). Any air bubbles should find their way to the radiator and escape via the open cap.
Let the engine cool down and top off the coolant. May have to repeat this a couple of times.
Jul 22, 2010 (2:09 pm)
Does anyone know if the 2001 Dakota SLT has a cabin filter and if so where is it located?
#215 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [redeldo1]
Jul 22, 2010 (5:18 pm)
I dont think it has one.
#216 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [bpeebles]
Jul 28, 2010 (8:31 pm)
okay bruce, after 200k on my 2000 quad cab, i FINALLY am having some weirdness with it. as you may recall, it's never been in the shop for anything other than a routine synthetic oil or tranny fluid change. i did have the rear-end checked /lubed once. 6 sets of tires too, rotors turned, then i replaced them myself. lol anyway, my a/c is doing hinky things now. as you may recall, i've got the semi-hemi and the extra duty cooling package, etc. on one of the very first of the delivered quads in Texas. came off the first trainload.
i recently had a drop off in a/c efficiency. i've always run it on high a/c-high fan setting here in the 'dry tropics' of w. texas. sooooo, i got the a/c refill bottle thingy, went through the refill process watching the gauge drop nicely into the green, using about half a bottle, noticed the cooling efficiency improve in the cab as well. everything nice and tidy. until just the other day. and now it just blows warm air. not hot, but warm. about what it was doing before i added the 134a. okay, leak right? well, not so fast.
oddly, the a/c compressor runs normally, fan blows normally and what's really weird is that when i hook the bottle back up to the low pressure port, it is solidly in the green, so apparently it's got a good charge of juice. hmmmmm... fan works, switches are all good, compressor works (not cycling, just on or off), yet temps are warm. turn the temp up to 'hot' and it'll fry your (hot dog) weenie. just no cold air.
any ideas on this little mystery?
jack b in midland, tx usa
coincidentally, we've got an 04 lincoln LS that has about 50k on it. it's just started blowing ice cold only (max low setting only) - no heat. i think we've figgered that'n out, but it happened at the same time. w. tx. just kills a/c units!
#217 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [themacguy]
Jul 29, 2010 (3:08 am)
Seals internal to the compressor???
#218 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [srs_49]
Jul 29, 2010 (8:05 am)
interesting thought. still wondering about that 'full charge.' you know, now that i've thought about it a bit more, for the first 160k or so it often whistled when it started cooling, and then quit (but kept cooling nicely). in fact my kids used to call my truck 'the whistler.' i'd forgotten about that. it was a high pitched whistle that just tapered off and then quit, but it didn't always do it and cooled well, so i just left it alone.
#219 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [themacguy]
Jul 29, 2010 (2:46 pm)
bled a little hot air out of the low pressure port, then put in about 18 oz. of 134a (19 oz. arctic freeze brand for $45). it cooled the inlet pipe down just briefly, but not much out of the dash vents. the clutch is cycling normally, and the blower blows strong and correctly at all speeds. the gauge reads 55 psi and then goes down to 20 psi or so when the clutch kicks in, rising in about 10 seconds back up to 55 psi. this cycles over and over. still warm air, when i turn the temp knob up it rapidly heats the vent air, so the blender must be working. the horn-a/c bus is good as the horn toots fine. cant' see any leaks or evidence that there's ever been one. still a mystery...
#220 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [themacguy]
Jul 29, 2010 (5:53 pm)
It sounds as if you have coverd most of the bases.... however, a *real* A/C guy would hook up guages to BOTH the high and low side. Simply by observing the behavious of the guages, (and the temparture of the compressur-inlet pipe) he could diagnose WHATEVER is wrong with the system. (freon-charge state, plugged airflow thru evaporator, reciever-drier issue, ice buildup within system... etc)
I know the above to be true because I have cousin who does A/C work for a living and have seen him diagnose A/C problems by using ONLY those 3 connections (High pressure, Low pressure, and compresser-inlet temp)
I would say that your best approach is to find someone who has those skills.
HOWEVER: Before doing that, I would personally verify that the pressure-switches on the high and low side are working as expected. It is the pressure-switches which control the A/C clutch and cutout.
Be aware, the ONLY way your system could have needed freon is because it leaked out in the first place. I am suspecting you do have some kind of leak.
#221 of 261 Re: Cabin Filter [bpeebles]
Jul 29, 2010 (8:06 pm)
thanks bruce. i figgered 'bout as much, but wanted to see what i could fix on my own since i have superierre rv mechanicalizing skillz. i can use duck tape and vise grips with the best of em. =
update: i put another 6 or so oz. in it (about 24 oz. total, after burping the hot air out a few times), and it cooled down ever so slightly, not much at all. another oddity is a noise, similar to a clothes pinned playing card in bicycle spokes. if y'all aren't familiar with that sound, then you don't need to be reading any further. for those of you that do, you'll understand the duck tape 'n vise grips comment...
anyway, the noise just increases with fan speed, and it's definitely coming from the blend box in front of the front seat passenger's feet. i unscrewed a few screws, and wiggling the box cover changes the sound noticeably. uh oh.
pro'lly gonna leave it for the a/c guys downtown.
i've got other stuff that needs attention on it more than that, particularly an odd 'cutting out' situation that's just developed. i'll go through the connectors, dirty distributor, etc. list before i get back on here and whine about it. speaking of rv's, my onan has quit putting out current on our smaller telstar motorhome, sooooo on to that little nuisance. gotta have it runnin' by manana evenin' or there'll be hell to pay!
jack b in midland, tx usa