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Nissan Altima Engine Failures

498 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 6:40 PM

You are in the Nissan Altima Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Nissan Altima, Engine, Sedan


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#316 of 498
Re: Another burning oil question [electricdesign] by ndiboy
Aug 05, 2008 (2:34 am)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 04, 2008 6:46 pm)

Thanks ED, just some few clarifications,
'GROOVED pulleys are on the INSIDE of the belt loop, and SMOOTH pulleys are on the OUTSIDE of the belt loop'.
This is not clear to me.Which one is the autotensioner? Is it the pulley above and just behind the compressor pulley? Thats the one that wobbles a bit when the engine is idling.The compressor pulley is grooved while the one I am referring to, next to it is smooth and on the outside(just went to examine them). Is this the meaning of the statement above? that is the grooved pulleys get the rough part of the belt while the smooth ones get the smooth part of the belt which is on the outside.
Thanks, Chuma.
Is the autotensioner one of the smooth pulleys
#317 of 498
Re: Another burning oil question [ndiboy] by electricdesign
Aug 05, 2008 (11:00 am)
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Replying to: ndiboy (Aug 05, 2008 2:34 am)

Grooved pullys are inside the belt loop, they ride on the grooved pullys, I can't make it any clearer than that. Operating from my memory, the grooved pullys are Crankshaft, Power Steering, Compressor and Alternator. The smooth pullys are the Autotensioner and the idler pullys.
Smooth pullys are outside the belt loop, the back of the belt rides on the smooth pullys.
The pully that you see bouncing (not wobbling), is the autotensioner.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
#318 of 498
Autotensioner. by ndiboy
Aug 05, 2008 (12:27 pm)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 05, 2008 11:00 am)

Thanks, I think like you said you have made it clear.By 'bouncing' do you mean the autotensioner needs changing or is it supposed to be that way (bouncing)?
Thanks, Chuma.
#319 of 498
by acevedo669
Aug 18, 2008 (6:35 am)
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How hard is it to replace the crank sensor on my 02 nissan altima?? My car keeps stalling and is hard to start.
#320 of 498
Re: [acevedo669] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Aug 18, 2008 (8:05 am)
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Replying to: acevedo669 (Aug 18, 2008 6:35 am)

2.5 or 3.5?
#321 of 498
Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by acevedo669
Aug 18, 2008 (8:06 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 18, 2008 8:05 am)

2.5
#322 of 498
Re: [acevedo669] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Aug 18, 2008 (8:22 am)
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Replying to: acevedo669 (Aug 18, 2008 6:35 am)

Well first off consider this RECALL:
 
MAKE/MODELS: MODEL/BUILD YEARS:
 
Nissan/Altima 2002 2005-2006
 
Nissan/Sentra 2002 2005-2006
 
MANUFACTURER: Nissan North America, Inc.
 
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 07V527000
 
MFR'S REPORT DATE: November 08, 2007
 
COMPONENT: Engine and Engine Cooling
 
POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 653910
SUMMARY:
On certain passenger vehicles equipped with a 2.5L engine, the crankshaft position sensor can overheat causing a brief interruption in the signal output from the sensor.
 
CONSEQUENCE:
If the interruption in the signal from the crankshaft position sensor is so brief that the Electronic Control Module (ECM) logic does not have time to diagnose the condition, the engine may stop running without warning while the vehicle is driven at a low speed increasing the risk of a crash.
REMEDY:
Dealers will reprogram the ECM free of charge. Certain M/Y 2006 Altimas which have been previously remedied under recall campaign 06V223000 (Nissan R0606) are not included in this recall since the reprogramming for 06V223000 also included this reprogramming. The recall is expected to begin on or about December 10, 2007. Owners may contact Nissan at 1-800-647-7261.
 
NOTES:
This is an expansion of a previous campaign (06V223000). Customers can also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
 
DESCRIPTION:
Component Description
The crankshaft position sensor (POS) is located on the cylinder block rear housing facing the gear teeth (cogs) of the signal plate at the end of the crankshaft. It detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
 
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC. When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor change.
 
The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change.
 
Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.
 
The ECM receives the voltage signal and detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
 
REPLACEMENT:
 
   1. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
   2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (POS) harness connector.
   3. Remove the sensor.
 
These sensors can be checked by an ohm meter but I don't have the terminal positions or the values. A repair manual would probably show you these.
#323 of 498
Re: [Mr_Shiftright] by acevedo669
Aug 18, 2008 (8:31 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 18, 2008 8:22 am)

hey thanks alot. its my wifes car and she never really took care of so i get stuck driving it around.i try to see if its been fixed for the recall yet. thanks again!!!!
#324 of 498
tension pulley or alternator- Arizona by larzod
Aug 24, 2008 (7:00 pm)
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Hello all,
 
I am new to the forum. My engine is making this loud vibration when I am at a stop. the vibration is a little less noticable when it is a park or neutral. I was told by jiffy lube that it was the tension pulley and that the belt was fine. I took it in to the delership the service person that writes up the service ticket (not a mechanic) told me it was the alternator.
 
Is there anyway to find out which one it is. The dealership told me that it was going to cost 600.00 for just the alternator plus labor. jiffy lube told me they don't do that kind of work put the tension pulley should not cost more than 50.00, and 60.00 for labor.
 
Thanks for your help
#325 of 498
Re: tension pulley or alternator- Arizona [larzod] by jd10013
Aug 25, 2008 (6:23 am)
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Replying to: larzod (Aug 24, 2008 7:00 pm)

They could both be right. the altenator has a tension pully on it. I don't know if it's removable or if the whole altenator has to be replaced. anyway, if the car is out of warranty then there is no way in hell I'd have the dealership do the work on it. They'll easily charge you 20% or more than an idependant repair shop would. If I were you, I'd take it to a garage that you trust and get a third opinion.

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