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Nissan Altima Engine Failures

497 messages,  Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 8:01 PM

You are in the Nissan Altima Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Nissan Altima, Engine, Sedan


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#311 of 497
Re: Another burning oil question [ndiboy] by electricdesign
Aug 01, 2008 (6:49 pm)
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Replying to: ndiboy (Aug 01, 2008 12:41 am)

Sorry, but I took a few things for granted, because I am so familiar with working on cars, I just assume some things are just common knowledge. The message about the cheater was to someone else, because I do know that you don't need it. You don't care if the SES light is on, but it is still good to use a scanner to read the codes for trouble shooting. I forgot about the plastic cover, that is something that for sure you do not need, it was the first thing I threw away. You can keep it if you like the looks of it, but to me, it is only in the way, and I like to have the engine exposed.
Oxygen Sensor, don't cut the wires! You need the O2 sensor working, because that is the main component that the computer uses to regulate the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. The signals to the fuel injector are called "Pulse Width Modulated" signals. That means a pulse of voltage is sent to each fuel injector, a short pulse opens the fuel injector to only open for a short time, allowing only a small amount of fuel to enter the cylinder. A longer pulse allows more fuel to enter. The computer varies the lengths of the pulse according to the output of the oxygen sensor. If the O2 sensor reads rich, the computer tells the fuel injectors to go lean, If the O2 sensor reads lean, the computer tells the fuel injectors to go rich. It is always in a varying state, according to the reading of the O2 sensor. Now if you cut the wires, that will put the computer in the "default" state or "Open Loop" state, which just runs on a set of predetermined values that are not fuel efficient. Fuel consumption will increase, the engine will use more gas and not run as clean. Try to maintain the computer system and sensors. If you can't, then do the best that you can. You must have internet access to get to this forum, so try using Google to find the information that I previously told you about, it will explain all that I have said and much more.
My Daughters 2002 Altima 2.5S is performing very well. I did a Sevice, oil change & filter change last weekend. It is using about 1 quart of motor oil in about 2,400 miles, which is OK. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles, using only Mobil One 10W-30 Synthetic Motor oil and Purolator Pure One Synthetic oil filter. I was noticing some vibration on the serpentine belt, I may have to change the belt tensioner soon. Other than needing some new tires, it is doing great.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, but not needed, as I said before, I have done this type of work all my life, rebuilt many engines and transmissions. I retired from that work, but I still do it if needed, and my daugther really needed the help, so Dad had to help her out.
I hope most of your questions are answered now.
Good Luck
E.D. ISF
#312 of 497
Re: 2002 Altima with "THE" oil problem [electricdesign] by krzy10boomr
Aug 02, 2008 (7:13 am)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jan 27, 2008 9:10 pm)

I know you are helping someone else right now, but I have the same vehicle and engine and I'm also having a #3 misfire. (trouble code)
 
However, mine only misfires upon start up and shortly after. Never while driving. Swapped coils and checked plugs and still misfired #3. Oh, it also idles slightly higher...at almost 1500 sometimes, but doesnn't surge.
 
I'm thinking maybe the #3 injector is not closing completely at idle or upon engine shutdown....thus loading up the cylinder with fuel. Sound possible???
 
Thanks for any info you may have,
Rick
#313 of 497
Re: 2002 Altima with "THE" oil problem [krzy10boomr] by electricdesign
Aug 02, 2008 (7:01 pm)
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Replying to: krzy10boomr (Aug 02, 2008 7:13 am)

Is your Altima a 2002 with the 2.5L I4 engine? How many miles? Your problem could be a number of things, finding the problem and solution will start with checking all the obvious things first.
One thing to check first - Do you loose any coolant from the radiator coolant tank, or do you have to add any coolant, and if so, how much and how often? The symptom sounds like a small amount of coolant leaks into the cylinder when the engine is shut off. Later when the engine is cooled down and restarted, the small amount of coolant in the cylinder causes the spark plug to missfire for a minute or less, until the coolant is all blown out, then the engine runs normally.
The high idle may be related to the above or not. Check the PCV valve and check for vacuum leaks. Look for unplugged, loose, or cracked vacuum hoses. Check to be sure the upper and lower intake manifold bolts are all tight. Check to be sure the the O-Rings at each injector is not leaking or sucking air. Squirt oil on these things and listen to see if the speed of the engine changes. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake plenum and see if the vacuum is good and steady.
Fuel injector #3 might be the problem, but not as likely. Do you use a fuel system cleaner or additive? You should add a fuel cleaner additive to the gas tank at least every oil change, to keep the injectors clean. If you have not added any, try adding some and give it time to work. Use an STP type or Seafoam.
Another problem that may cause the high idle could be the throttle body, Try carefully cleaning it with throttle body cleaner. Be sure the air filter is clean and that the air intake tube is not cracked or leaking anywhere. Sometimes, the Mass Airflow sensor needs to be cleaned, but they don't usually give problems on these vehicles, unless they are allowed to get dirty.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
#314 of 497
Re: Another burning oil question [electricdesign] by ndiboy
Aug 04, 2008 (5:02 am)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 01, 2008 6:49 pm)

Thanks for the assistance,I believe you have cleared all the grey areas.
The serpentine belt you mentioned just made me remember something.Is it the same thing as the fan belt? and what is the tensioner? The belt in my Altima (right side of the engine) wobbles and it appears its the lowest pulley holding the belt that does that and causes some vibration when I put on the A/C.
I think I need some help with regards to this.Does the pulley get damaged and does the wobbling affect the function?
Thanks, Chuma.
#315 of 497
Re: Another burning oil question [ndiboy] by electricdesign
Aug 04, 2008 (6:46 pm)
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Replying to: ndiboy (Aug 04, 2008 5:02 am)

You do not have a fan belt, you have a sepentine belt. It is tensioned by the autotensioner. It should run straight and true, if not, check all the pulleys for staightness and be sure none are loose, you need to do this with the belt removed. Look at how the belt goes around all the pullys, and make a drawing of it, you will need this when you try to put it back on. GROOVED pullys are on the INSIDE of the belt loop, and SMOOTH pullys are on the OUTSIDE of the belt loop. If the belt bounces, you may need a new belt, a new autotensioner, or both.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
#316 of 497
Re: Another burning oil question [electricdesign] by ndiboy
Aug 05, 2008 (2:34 am)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 04, 2008 6:46 pm)

Thanks ED, just some few clarifications,
'GROOVED pulleys are on the INSIDE of the belt loop, and SMOOTH pulleys are on the OUTSIDE of the belt loop'.
This is not clear to me.Which one is the autotensioner? Is it the pulley above and just behind the compressor pulley? Thats the one that wobbles a bit when the engine is idling.The compressor pulley is grooved while the one I am referring to, next to it is smooth and on the outside(just went to examine them). Is this the meaning of the statement above? that is the grooved pulleys get the rough part of the belt while the smooth ones get the smooth part of the belt which is on the outside.
Thanks, Chuma.
Is the autotensioner one of the smooth pulleys
#317 of 497
Re: Another burning oil question [ndiboy] by electricdesign
Aug 05, 2008 (11:00 am)
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Replying to: ndiboy (Aug 05, 2008 2:34 am)

Grooved pullys are inside the belt loop, they ride on the grooved pullys, I can't make it any clearer than that. Operating from my memory, the grooved pullys are Crankshaft, Power Steering, Compressor and Alternator. The smooth pullys are the Autotensioner and the idler pullys.
Smooth pullys are outside the belt loop, the back of the belt rides on the smooth pullys.
The pully that you see bouncing (not wobbling), is the autotensioner.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
#318 of 497
Autotensioner. by ndiboy
Aug 05, 2008 (12:27 pm)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 05, 2008 11:00 am)

Thanks, I think like you said you have made it clear.By 'bouncing' do you mean the autotensioner needs changing or is it supposed to be that way (bouncing)?
Thanks, Chuma.
#319 of 497
by acevedo669
Aug 18, 2008 (6:35 am)
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How hard is it to replace the crank sensor on my 02 nissan altima?? My car keeps stalling and is hard to start.
#320 of 497
Re: [acevedo669] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Aug 18, 2008 (8:05 am)
Reply

Replying to: acevedo669 (Aug 18, 2008 6:35 am)

2.5 or 3.5?

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