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Sedans Nissan Altima Nissan Altima Engine Failures
500 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 8:42 PM
You are in the Nissan Altima Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: ndiboy (Jul 30, 2008 11:53 am) About the exhaust at the back of the car, you have a single exhaust with a single muffler with a single tailpipe that splits into two tailpipe tips. As long as you have good exhaust gas flow out of either pipe at the back of the car, you are ok. This is only for single exhaust cars. Cars that have dual exhaust, such as the V6, must have good exhaust gas flow out of BOTH left and right tailpipes. About the "PCV I am used to is 'Packed Cell Volume'." PCV Referring to automotive is Postive Crankcase Ventilation. "electricdesign (trying to figure out the name or guy name)." That is simply my job as an electrical designer, hence the abbreviation E.D. Good Luck, E.D.
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Replying to: bcole05 (Jul 31, 2008 3:34 am) Check you compression tester, it's always best to use quality reliable equipment, because wrongs readings can throw you way off track. I use a qualitiy screw in Pearless compression tester, with a heavy duty 2 foot flexible hose. "So its looking much more like a new engine will be needed." Unfortunately, I think you are about right, since the compressions are now reading low. That would give much stronger indication that oil is leaking up past the pistons and rings into the combustion chamber and burning with the oil. I would agree that a $5700 car is not worth a new engine, unless it is a restoration project or of great sentimental value. Good Luck, E.D. ISF |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jul 31, 2008 5:09 am) Maybe I will use his tools and pit in the workshop and have a look for possible hollowing of the pre cat and have peace. The PCV's air flow is supposed to be clear and colourless I presume.The one in my Bluebird brings out dirty oily black gas but I cant seem to locate that of my Altima. Thanks, Chuma.
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Replying to: ndiboy (Jul 31, 2008 6:15 am) Since you may try to look into the exhaust manifold/pre cat yourself, look at what I wrote in messege #306: "The bottom bolts of the exhaust manifold, where the exhaust pipe connects, definitely do get rusty and stuck tight. That work is easy for me because I just use my acetylene torch to heat them red hot and they come right off." I would count on the bolts being rusty and tight, so try to be prepared for the worst. Exhaust components usually are rusty and stuck, so this should not be a problem if the mechanic is familiar with this type of work. I don't know if you have an acetylene torch or anything to get rusted tight nuts loose. If you get stuck, and can't get it off, then just let the mechanic have a crack at it, as he has to take that exhaust pipe loose anyway, before he can remove the exhaust manifold. See teardown photos DSC06886 through 06888. If you try to hollow out the pre cat, I would recommend that you first remove the oxygen sensors to avoid damaging them. You may likely need a special socket for this, if they are tight, and they usually are. The special socket has a slot up the side to allow the socket to slip over the wiring. See teardown photo #06892, this photo is on the upper O2 sensor for clarity of the photo, but you need to remove the lower O2 sensor also, as it is in the most danger of being damaged during the hollowing out process. The PCV valve is located bolted with 2 bolts to the Intake Plenium, on the end of the hose from the valve cover, see teardown photo # DSC06959. If you pull the hose off the PCV and start the engine, there should be only a small amount of gas, if any, coming out of the hose (coming out of the inside of the engine), and it should be colorless (we have color here, not colour). If dark or smokey, it indicates an engine problem, which is too much combustion gas in the crankcase, also called blow by. The cure for blow by is a new or rebuilt engine. Good Luck, E.D. ISF
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Replying to: ndiboy (Jul 31, 2008 6:15 am) Unscrew O2 sensors carefully, if they start to get tight when unscrewing them, spray some penetrating oil on the exposed threads and screw it back in a little and work the sensor back and forth a few times to work the oil into the threads. Apply oil as often as needed. It should loosen and eventually come out. Before putting a used or new O2 sensor back in, coat the threads with a small amount of Neverseize compound (available at auto parts stores). Put the Neverseize carefully only on the threads, do not contaminate the sensor with the compound. This will help in the future, in case you should have to remove it again. Good Luck, E.D. ISF |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jul 31, 2008 5:06 pm) The PCV valve is hidden under a plastic covering of the engine (there is this black plastic covering the top of the engine with 2.5 written on it that covers the engine I didn't see it in yours). If I remove it I believe I will be able to see the valve and some other things like the plug.My car is even the same color as your daughter's - Gold. I have looked at the pics as you directed and all were clear.The oxygen sensor, I am really amazed because down here the wires are cut by the mechanics with the belief that it does nothing.My 1988 nissan bluebird even has one but the wires are cut for a long time now and i learnt that when bad will contribute to increase fuel consumption -- is this true? How is your daughter's Altima performing? we need a feedback from you for that heroic performance (to think you did the overhauling of that engine all alone). This will aid me so as to know when to sell the car off, its just 7 months old with me now.I don't need a liability now especially with the crashing prices though its still expensive down here, I bought mine 1.7million Naira which is about $14,780 including shipping and clearance at the wharf down here.You guys are lucky there, the cars are cheap there. Thanks, Chuma.
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Replying to: ndiboy (Aug 01, 2008 12:41 am) Oxygen Sensor, don't cut the wires! You need the O2 sensor working, because that is the main component that the computer uses to regulate the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders. The signals to the fuel injector are called "Pulse Width Modulated" signals. That means a pulse of voltage is sent to each fuel injector, a short pulse opens the fuel injector to only open for a short time, allowing only a small amount of fuel to enter the cylinder. A longer pulse allows more fuel to enter. The computer varies the lengths of the pulse according to the output of the oxygen sensor. If the O2 sensor reads rich, the computer tells the fuel injectors to go lean, If the O2 sensor reads lean, the computer tells the fuel injectors to go rich. It is always in a varying state, according to the reading of the O2 sensor. Now if you cut the wires, that will put the computer in the "default" state or "Open Loop" state, which just runs on a set of predetermined values that are not fuel efficient. Fuel consumption will increase, the engine will use more gas and not run as clean. Try to maintain the computer system and sensors. If you can't, then do the best that you can. You must have internet access to get to this forum, so try using Google to find the information that I previously told you about, it will explain all that I have said and much more. My Daughters 2002 Altima 2.5S is performing very well. I did a Sevice, oil change & filter change last weekend. It is using about 1 quart of motor oil in about 2,400 miles, which is OK. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles, using only Mobil One 10W-30 Synthetic Motor oil and Purolator Pure One Synthetic oil filter. I was noticing some vibration on the serpentine belt, I may have to change the belt tensioner soon. Other than needing some new tires, it is doing great. Thanks for the vote of confidence, but not needed, as I said before, I have done this type of work all my life, rebuilt many engines and transmissions. I retired from that work, but I still do it if needed, and my daugther really needed the help, so Dad had to help her out. I hope most of your questions are answered now. Good Luck E.D. ISF
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jan 27, 2008 9:10 pm) However, mine only misfires upon start up and shortly after. Never while driving. Swapped coils and checked plugs and still misfired #3. Oh, it also idles slightly higher...at almost 1500 sometimes, but doesnn't surge. I'm thinking maybe the #3 injector is not closing completely at idle or upon engine shutdown....thus loading up the cylinder with fuel. Sound possible??? Thanks for any info you may have, Rick
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Replying to: krzy10boomr (Aug 02, 2008 7:13 am) One thing to check first - Do you loose any coolant from the radiator coolant tank, or do you have to add any coolant, and if so, how much and how often? The symptom sounds like a small amount of coolant leaks into the cylinder when the engine is shut off. Later when the engine is cooled down and restarted, the small amount of coolant in the cylinder causes the spark plug to missfire for a minute or less, until the coolant is all blown out, then the engine runs normally. The high idle may be related to the above or not. Check the PCV valve and check for vacuum leaks. Look for unplugged, loose, or cracked vacuum hoses. Check to be sure the upper and lower intake manifold bolts are all tight. Check to be sure the the O-Rings at each injector is not leaking or sucking air. Squirt oil on these things and listen to see if the speed of the engine changes. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake plenum and see if the vacuum is good and steady. Fuel injector #3 might be the problem, but not as likely. Do you use a fuel system cleaner or additive? You should add a fuel cleaner additive to the gas tank at least every oil change, to keep the injectors clean. If you have not added any, try adding some and give it time to work. Use an STP type or Seafoam. Another problem that may cause the high idle could be the throttle body, Try carefully cleaning it with throttle body cleaner. Be sure the air filter is clean and that the air intake tube is not cracked or leaking anywhere. Sometimes, the Mass Airflow sensor needs to be cleaned, but they don't usually give problems on these vehicles, unless they are allowed to get dirty. Good Luck, E.D. ISF |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Aug 01, 2008 6:49 pm) The serpentine belt you mentioned just made me remember something.Is it the same thing as the fan belt? and what is the tensioner? The belt in my Altima (right side of the engine) wobbles and it appears its the lowest pulley holding the belt that does that and causes some vibration when I put on the A/C. I think I need some help with regards to this.Does the pulley get damaged and does the wobbling affect the function? Thanks, Chuma.
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