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Sedans Nissan Altima Nissan Altima Engine Failures
500 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 8:42 PM
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Replying to: electricdesign (Feb 12, 2008 8:17 pm) 
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Replying to: pure_hp (Feb 12, 2008 5:15 pm) different people have different opinions and experiences when it comes to reliablitly, but this is my third nissan product. the first one, a sentra, lasted 220k miles with no major repairs, and was traded in still running. My second, a 1998 200sx, has 151k miles, I still own, is still running, and I drive it to and from work (about 50 miles per day) four days a week. in the 10 years I've owned it I've had to put 2 sets of front brakes on it. Thats it. brakes twice in 10yrs and 151,000 miles. those two nissan vehicles are the reason I bought my altima over a camry, accord, or other mid size. |
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let me start off by saying i'm new to this forum....i have a 2002 altima 3.5(auto) with 62000 miles...recently i have had problems accelerating when getting on the freeway or just playing around...it seems to be bogging around 3500rpm to about 4700rpm and then open back up to redline..its very annoying and i'm worried..i do have a couple upgrades like a cold air intake, exhaust and no resonators..i have heard that it can be either the mass air flow meter or tranny problems...has anyone had this problem and what do i do??
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Replying to: altimavq35 (Feb 14, 2008 12:19 pm)
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Replying to: aguarino (Feb 14, 2008 3:55 pm)  .......
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Replying to: altimavq35 (Feb 14, 2008 4:16 pm) |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Feb 12, 2008 8:17 pm) I just bought a 2002 Altima in january with 90K miles and in the first week heat stopped working.......after 3 weeks i had the engine problem and thank god i had the extended warranty so they changed the whole engine.........now i am in a doubt.... should i keep the car or not? ............any suggestions.....please help Thanks once again |
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| ASJ YOURSELF THESE QUESTIONS....HOW COMFORTABLE DO YOU FEEL WITH THE CAR? IS THE CATALYTIC CONVERTOR CHANGED? IS THE WARRANTY GOING TO STAND UP FOR ANOTHER ENGINE? DO YOU WANT TO DRIVE IN FEAR OF THIS CAR FAILING YOU AGAIN? ARE THERE ANY OTHER CARS ON THE MARKET THAT YOU YOU WOULD CONSIDER HASELL FREE? IF THE ANSWER IS "YES" TO ANY OF THESE FIND ANOTHER CAR | |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jan 28, 2008 8:43 pm) Thanks for all the detailed postings and pictures. It’s nice to have you here, knowing the inside of this Nissan engine and the problems with the oil consumption. I have an 02 Altima I purchased new and now has 100,000 miles. Have religiously changed oil and filter between 3-4,000 miles. Have had all the recalls done at the dealership when notified. Car was good to me for five years, requiring routine maintenance and normal wear parts. No significant oil consumption. Mileage got into mid 90’s in late 2007, car started to run rough occasionally, like when there’s condensation in the fuel. Problem was intermittent. Used isopropyl in fuel, but that didn’t fix it. Also, the heater started blowing cool when idle, which made me think low water or weak water pump. Took to my Goodyear mechanic, a good guy and capable mechanic. Looked at computer codes, suggested changing gas cap to clear the codes and radiator cap to see if that improved the heat . He also backflushed the heater core and it got better for a few thousand miles, but it still continued to run rough occasionally for short bursts of time. Then the excess oil consumption started. Maybe 1 quart / 1,000 at first. Took back to Goodyear January, 2008. Replaced PCV valve, but no change in consumption. Back to Goodyear again February, checked water for trace carbon, but zero. Checked oil for presence of water but none. Compression check yielded 149, 151, 150, 149 which he thought was OK (do you agree?). Did leak down test and pressure held good. Pulled the plugs but they were dry, with a little white powder residue. Replaced plugs. Mechanic found oil in line leading from PCV valve so he replaced the valve again in the unlikely event that the new one he installed the first time was bad. Car is now using about 1 quart / 200 miles. Mechanic thinks he should remove valve cover to see if oil return ports are clogged, allowing oil to accumulate in top side of engine, filling to the point where the PCV is located and allowing oil to escape there. I decided to call the local Nissan dealer to ask the Service Manager if this problem has presented with other cars. She indicated that she has seen a couple with excess oil consumption, that the cat was the problem causing the cylinder walls to score. When I asked her if a compression check should confirm her suspicion, she indicated that it may not (what do you think?). I don’t understand this, but she’s the mechanic. She said that if the cat was indeed my problem, a rebuilt engine was the only fix. So, my question to you – is there any merit in pulling the valve cover and checking the oil return ports, or is it a foregone conclusion that I have the dreaded catalytic converter problem? I called Nissan North America to see what they know, but they won’t talk to me until I have the problem diagnosed by their dealer. They said they would entertain Goodwill Assistance, but they needed dealer-provided diagnostics first. Your advice, sir?
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Replying to: scttcrssmn (Feb 28, 2008 11:18 am) Since you seem to have read all my previous posts, I may refer to them during this post. Your oil comsumption of 1 quart in 200 miles is horrendous, a very serious problem. Referring back to my posts about my daughters 2002 Altima 2.5S, I just recently confirmed that you oil consumption now is about 1 quart in about 3000 miles, which is very good. Before I worked on the engine and had the head rebuilt, it was consuming about 1 qt every 1500 miles. I am now supposing that the oil consumption has improved due to having the head rebuilt and having new seals installed on the valve guides. I think that most of the oil was being sucked past the valve guides. The valve guides and springs sit in "pockets" in the head that hold oil, so the top of the valve guide with the seal basically run submersed in motor oil. So it is my belief that the valve guide seals are critical on this engine. Another thing that struck me about your engine was that the cylinder compressions were so close together, that is a good thing. They seemed a little low to me, but otherwise good. The eveness of the readings is very important. Pulling the valve cover is a very simple issue, just a few screws to take out and a few hoses to remove, and a few wires to take loose. Put it back on with a new gasket to prevent leaks. You gave a lot of good information, but here's a few things to closely check. 1. Check the cooling system for any sign of external or internal leaks by doing the following: A. Do you have to add any coolant to the coolant resivor? I have suspisions about your cooling system because of the occasional miss and also because of the heater not heating. It acts like gas bubbles are getting into you cooling system, the gas rises to the top and into the heater hoses, making less or no heat. It possible for gas to seep or leak from the engine into the cooling system, and when that happens a small amount of coolant goes into the cylinder causing a temporary miss in the engine, usually on a cold start and lasts a short time. B. With the engine running, watch the coolant resivor for any trace of bubbles rising inside the tank. I was able to find the combustion leak on my daughters car by doing this. If you see small bubbles that continue to rise in the coolant resivior, it may mean that combustion gas is moving out of the radiator and into the coolant resivior. These head gaskets are very prone to leakage and the heads are very prone to warp if they have ever been overheated. 2. Check out the exhaust system completely. With engine running be sure you get plenty of exhaust gas out the tailpipes. This will confirm that either of the Cats is not clogged up. When the exhaust is cool, disconnect the exhaust pipe from the precat, at the spring connector connections, and inspect the inside of the precat, looking through the bottom opening. You should see a clean unbroken screen. If not, the Cat is shot. If the lower screen is busted or gone, then the material may have moved down the exhaust pipe to the 2nd cat, and you would be getting a service engine soon light that says bad cat. Unbolt the precat and the exhaust manifold assembly from the engine head, hold it upside down over a clean table and shake it to see if anythihng comes out. Nothing should come out. If anything comes out, the cat is probably shot. If the screens are busted in the cat and the material has moved out of the cat, you can clean out both the cats to make sure that they are unplugged. If you put it together this way, the engine will run fine, but the service engine soon light will remain lit, due to the non-performance of the cat. The precat is monitored, the 2nd cat is not monitored. 3. Please post what codes were displayed. 4. The compressions seems fairly good and even, but the only way to tell the condition of the cylinders is to pull the head, and that is a last resort for now. Please do what you can of what I asked in the preceeding and then we will go from there. Good Luck, E.D. in Sunny Florida
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