Last post on Jul 30, 2013 at 8:15 PM
You are in the Nissan Altima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Altima, Engine, Sedan
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#123 of 685 Re: 2001 nissan altima [ferusolin]
Dec 18, 2007 (11:25 am)
What engine? How many miles? Has the "check engine light" or "service engine soon light" come on? If so, have the DTC's read and report back with them. A likely cause here is a vaccum leak. Check for vaccums leaks around gaskets, hoses, etc.
The compression reading sounds low, how were they taken? They should be taken with the battery fully charged, all spark plugs out, and Throttle wide open (if you have drive by wire, the throttle should be physically blocked open). I would expect cylinder compressions of over 140 psi.
#124 of 685 Re: new recall [ken75]
Dec 18, 2007 (4:11 pm)
I'm not bashing nissan, I have two in my driveway right now (1 being a 2007 altima). I'm bashing used cars You never know what somebody did to them before your, or how they took care of them. Between that, and the fact that most people will sell when they know a major problem is about to occur, I refused to buy used.
#125 of 685 Re: Nissan Altima 2002 engine problems [electricdesign]
Dec 24, 2007 (2:22 pm)
Referring to my posts #98, #103 & #113, taking apart and reassembling the Altima 2.5S QR Engine, I got the head back from the machine shop Monday afternoon (12/1707). They said the head passed the pressure and vacuum tests, no cracks or leaks, but the head was warped .005", which is too much (was the cause of the head gasket leakage). They milled the head flat, did a valve job, and installed new seals on the valves. They charged me $471.57 for the machine work, including a gasket set, new head bolts, and a tube of gray silcone sealer. I worked on cleaning and assembling everything back together, on the evenings of Sunday(3hrs cleaning parts), Monday(6hrs), Tuesday(1/2hr), Wednesday(3hrs), then all day Saturday(12 1/2hrs) and part of Sunday(5hrs). I tested the cylinder compressions before I started the engine, and they were all 210 pounds, very good. I started the engine at 2pm on Sun 12/23/07, and it started and ran perfectly as soon as I turned the key to start. The computer showed no codes. After warming it up, and taking a test drive, I came back to the shop and flushed the cooling system, put in the new coolant, and changed the oil and filter. No leaks, no skips, no misses, it performed as good or better than new. It got up to 110 mph on the freeway, but I had to let off the throttle due to traffic. The amount of money I spent in parts and machine shop work is about what I had figured, total of $533. I roughly tracked my labor, and I spent about 18 hours tearing it down, and I spent about 30 hours cleaning, checking and assembling the engine. I worked rather slowly and methodically, because I don't do these every day and I had to be certain that it was right. I took 313 pictures during the teardown and 350 pictures of the cleaning and assembly. I spent about 48 hours working on it over two weeks, while still working at my 40 hour a week daytime job. My daughter came over sunday night and picked up the car, so now I can take a rest, and do my Christmas shopping!
So far so good, she called and said it is running fine. I want it keep running that way for a couple of more years till she can get another car, NOT a Nissan!
Good Luck and Merry Christmas to all of you,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
p.s. to jd10013 - I understand your concern about not buying used cars because it is a gamble and you may inhierit someones problems, BUT I only buy used cars and I am very sucessful at it because I do a massive amount of reasearch before a buy a vehicle. My cars all go over 200,000 miles with no major problems. The Nissan Altima in this post, I DID NOT BUY, nor would I have bought. My daughter made the descision to buy it and she was very adamant about getting one, because she liked the "new look". I think she has learned better by now, because next time I won't be fixing it, she will have to pay to get it fixed.
Back to my cars, I research for reliable vehicles that fit my needs, usually 5 years old with 80,000 to 100,000 miles and with a good deal. I do all my own servicing and repair work.
My current vehicles - a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 with AODE auto transmission 2wd with 160,000 miles -run great, and a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 with AODE auto transmission 2wd with 148,000 - runs great.
My next vehicle - probably a 2004 Toyota Highlander.
Dec 24, 2007 (8:10 pm)
While driving my 2002 Altima the other day, Which is a 2.5 L engine.. I got off the freeway and the engine had almost completly lost all its power.. Tried to get it home but I eended up having it towed, Took it to the mechanic and he was a little confused.. He did look up that there was a recall with some sensors involved, Does anyone know anything about this ?
#127 of 685 Re: 2002 loss of power [smoothride4me]
Dec 25, 2007 (6:42 am)
First thing to do is get the codes read from the computer, the codes are call "DTC's" Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The mechanic should have read those first and informed you of what they were.
Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Crankshaft Position (CKP) and Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensors and screws falling out of the intake manifold Power Valve on the 2.5L engine. Failure of the CKP Sensor or the CMP Sensor may cause the engine to stall, and may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. When the intake manifold Power Valve screws fall out they enter the engine through the intake manifold and can damage the spark plugs causing the engine to misfire or may damage the engine block.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#128 of 685 Re: 2002 loss of power [electricdesign]
Dec 25, 2007 (10:32 am)
Merry Christmas and Thank you very much for the scoop, I did have the code read, And all it is showing is the 3rd gear in the transmission is slipping, Maybe another problem but the trans is not the cause of the engine running rough with its loss of power..No other DTC's came up on the computer..I am just wondering if I should have the mechanic change the CKP and CMP? I also have a Ford diesel pick up.. I saved a bundle of money without taking it to the dealer and changing the CPS myself..
Thank You again
Raymond, In windy California!!!
#129 of 685 Re: 2002 loss of power [smoothride4me]
Dec 26, 2007 (7:37 am)
Now I understand why the mechanic was confused, he had no codes to guide him.
I would not recommend to blindly change sensors and parts without proper diagnosis, you will be throwing away time and money.
There are some common problems that can cause the engine to run rough or badly and NOT throw a code, any vaccum leaks, like leaky or broken vacuum hoses, leaky intake gaskets, leaky fuel injector seals, etc or any air leak in the air intake duct between the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) and the throttle body. Pull the entire plastic intake duct off the engine and inspect it carefully for and leaks, cracks, holes, and be sure everything fits securely when installed.
Also check the fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail and monitor the fuel pressure to be sure it remains constant while driving. If there is a problem with the fuel pressure, check the fuel pressure regulator, Fuel Pump Relay, and lastly check the fuel pump and filter (located in the gas tank, asscessable through a cover under the rear seat/truck area0.
There are a few other things that could cause problems, but the possiblities are remote, and I don't want to lead you to "chasing your tail".
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Dec 26, 2007 (11:49 am)
Thank you very much for rhe info, Trust me it helped.. I called Nissan Headquartes and they did say there was a recall on the sensors.. Right before I was going to take the car, The mechanic and I decided to take out the 02 sensor, The car was loud but then it ran fine, Some stuff blew out of the hole, Put the sensor back in and it ran fine.. I still am going to have the Cat converter changed but Nissan made the exhaust manifold and converter as one part, In the tune of $494, Just for the part..
#131 of 685 Re: Cat Converter [smoothride4me]
Dec 27, 2007 (8:54 am)
Your power loss was due to an exhaust restriction in the precat and/or exhaust. We have had long discussions on all this before. I would suggest you look back over earlier posts and you can glean much useful information from them. You can use the SEARCH feature to find what you are looking for. I posted extensively on this particular subject of the precat and the lower second cat failing and clogging in this forum in Post #75 through #77. Be sure to read them. Removing the oxygen sensor relieved the backpressure in the cat, but the problem still remains. The contents of the precat can break free and blow down the exahust pipe to the next part, which is another cat under the car, right before the muffler, it's about 4 feet back from the connection of the exhaust pipe to the bottom of the precat. This second cat under the car can clog up and plug the exhaust. Go behind the car when the engine is running and feel how much exhaust gas is coming out the tailpipes. If not much, the cat may be cloged. I was able to take the exhaust pipe with the second cat out from under the car and unclog it, and put it back on. It worked fine after that.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
#132 of 685 2002 Altima with "THE" oil problem
Dec 27, 2007 (12:34 pm)
What an eye opener. I have 2 Altima's-- 2002 with 80,000 miles and a 2003 with 75,000 miles. Well, the 2002 started a problem with engine noise, then the catalytic convertor went out, now the oil comsumption problem. I have contacted Nissan, with no response so far. Does anyone know if Nissan is recognizing this is a problem?? I've read all the recalls and tech service reports on this Nissan. Only see one that might come close to acknowledging an issue. I have not been to the dealer yet, wanted to gather as much information as possible first. Any suggestions?