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GMC Yukon Climate Control AC and Heat Questions

109 messages,  Last post on Oct 02, 2009 at 3:30 PM

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What is this discussion about? GMC Yukon XL, Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Heating / Cooling, SUV

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#82 of 109 by scottyd1 Oct 21, 2008 (4:55 am)
Arrie,   Thanks for the assistance. I removed the module last night, and reset it.   So far, it worked as tested last night, and this morning it was working normal.....so I think it's fixed.   I appreciate the help! Replies to this message: arrie (Oct 21, 2008 8:58 am) eric187 (Oct 25, 2008 4:21 pm) arrie (Oct 25, 2008 4:49 pm)
#83 of 109 Re: [scottyd1] by arrie Oct 21, 2008 (8:58 am)
Replying to: scottyd1 (Oct 21, 2008 4:55 am) Great to hear it works!   How about that coolant level and rear heater?   Arrie Replies to this message: eric187 (Oct 25, 2008 4:21 pm) arrie (Oct 25, 2008 4:49 pm)
#84 of 109 Re: [arrie] by eric187 Oct 25, 2008 (4:21 pm)
Replying to: arrie (Oct 21, 2008 8:58 am) Arrie, I have the same problem as Scottyd1...my driver's side air blows HOT air even when selected to cool ..and the passenger side functions as normal   I read your posting on re-seting the climate module and tried unplugging and plugging it back several times. Is there anything else i can try?   PS...my problem also occurred immediately after installing a new battery.. thanks   Eric Replies to this message: arrie (Oct 25, 2008 4:49 pm)
#85 of 109 Re: [eric187] by arrie Oct 25, 2008 (4:49 pm)
Replying to: eric187 (Oct 25, 2008 4:21 pm) Unfortunately I don't know any other tricks for this.   When you unplugged the two harnesses, you did have them both disconnected at the same time, correct? And you did have your key in OFF position while disconnecting the harnesses?   Anyway, the problem seems to be with the climate control module so to fix it, if re-setting does not work, you might need to get a new (or new used) control module. Of course, it would be nice to be able to try someone else's control module that you know works and see if it makes yours behave as it should. Perhaps a used car parts store, i.e. junk yard, would let you try and purchase it if it fixes your problem. Some of them let you try parts like this.   The problem could also be a stuck temperature control gate that mixes cold and hot air for set temperature but you said that the problem started right after battery change so the problem probably is with the control module.   Arrie
#86 of 109 1998 GMC Yukon heater problem by bobvanleeuward Dec 11, 2008 (2:21 pm)
The heater in my 1998 GMC Yukon works sporadically. Does anyone have any idea why this would happen? Thanks! Replies to this message: arrie (Jan 16, 2009 2:58 pm)
#87 of 109 Re: Bebensee [bbebensee] by B4UBuy Jan 15, 2009 (6:24 pm)
Replying to: bbebensee (Jun 30, 2008 4:46 am) The problem with your rear heater is the doors that were used in most of those units. They were out of spect and were still used. The whole rear unit needs to be removed and either have the doors replaced or regrease the holes and the door pins. It takes about an hour or two if you do it yourself. Depending on your mileage it should be under warranty. I hope this helps.
#88 of 109 Re: 1998 GMC Yukon heater problem [bobvanleeuward] by arrie Jan 16, 2009 (2:58 pm)
Replying to: bobvanleeuward (Dec 11, 2008 2:21 pm) Make sure you have enough engine coolant level. Best way to check this, which is against what they say, is to open the engine coolant expansion reservoir after running the engine hot.   By opening I mean to place a thick shop rag on top of the cap and turning it slowly open to let pressure out from the reservoir. Pressure comes out when the spring loaded valve on the cap opens and lets vapor pressure out thru the drain line. This means that the cap is still on the threads but still be careful not to get hot liquid on yourself.   Allowing vapor pressure out from the engine will let the cooling system to fill all the way. If your engine is not filled all the way you will see the level drop in the reservoir.   I'm writing about this because it happened to me. I still had some level in the reservoir but was able to add almost 2 gallons of coolant to get level really up to the reservoir. Somehow this cooling system can get air bound and keep coolant from filling in the engine, which should never happen.   If coolant level is too low you will not have enough flow thru the heater core and you will see thing happen like it heats when you rev-up the engine but then does not when on idle or during low rpm driving.   Arrie
#89 of 109 Arrie is right on the mark by rikkitikki Jan 18, 2009 (12:37 pm)
I just bought a 2004 Tahoe for my wife, we could start her car and let it idle forever with no heat. Anti-freeze level appeared correct in resavoir, added 1- 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze and Bingo, now heat will drive you out of car........ Thanx for the tip.......... Replies to this message: arrie (Jan 18, 2009 10:03 pm) arrie (Jan 25, 2009 8:37 am)
#90 of 109 Re: Arrie is right on the mark [rikkitikki] by arrie Jan 18, 2009 (10:03 pm)
Replying to: rikkitikki (Jan 18, 2009 12:37 pm) So,   You have a leak!   You probably have the porous cylinder head cast problem that lets engine coolant to leak internally inside the engine.   I would get BAR's radiator leak fix and pour it in the coolant expansion reservoir. You really need to do something and this is the cheapest fix that I know that at least worked for me.   Arrie
#91 of 109 Re: Arrie is right on the mark [rikkitikki] by arrie Jan 25, 2009 (8:37 am)
Replying to: rikkitikki (Jan 18, 2009 12:37 pm) Little SCARY info for all readers with possible coolant leak.   A couple of days ago I went to check on the coolant level on my '04 Tahoe engine. I have posted before that after using Bar's radiator fix I stopped loosing coolant as when I look at level in the reservoir it has not gone down.   THIS WAS ALL WRONG! I STILL HAVE LOST COOLANT BUT LEVEL DID NOT GO DOWN IN THE RESERVOIR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   What I did was that while engine was running I opened the cap of the coolant reservoir and the level went down by 1 1/2" immediately when I broke the seal of the cap.   I did not have any steam come out from engine to the reservoir so I was not overheating or nothing like that but the engine definitely was not full of coolant in all cooling channels.   THIS IS VERY SCARY AS WITHOUT OPENING THE CAP OF THE COOLANT RESERVOIR YOU CANNOT SEE YOU ARE LOOSING COOLANT!   What probably causes this is a very poor design of the reservoir and its connection in cooling system. It probably is that too small tubing from the reservoir does not allow coolant level in the reservoir go down because the reservoir is sealed, i.e. cannot get air in for the coolant to flow out. The valve in the cap does not let air to flow in the reservoir, only excessive pressure out from it.   MY SUGGESTION TO ALL READERS WITH SIMILAR ENGINES (5.3 L) AROUND '03 - '06 YEAR MODEL DO THE CHECK, I.E. OPEN THE RESERVOIR CAP (BEING VERY CAREFUL) WHILE ENGINE IS IDLING AND SEE IF LEVEL DROPS DOWN.   I think I will disable the valve in the reservoir cap, i.e. make it so that reservoir can breath freely in and out. Perhaps there is a check valve that could be installed on the cap that would let air freely in but outgoing pressure would still need to work thru the valve in the cap.   Arrie

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