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GMC Yukon Climate Control AC and Heat Questions

109 messages, Last post on Oct 02, 2009 at 3:30 PM
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Replying to: arrie (Oct 20, 2008 8:33 am) I will try to reset the climate control module this evening. I will check on the coolant level when I get home from work. Thank you very much for your advice. I will let you, and everyone else, know the results. |
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Arrie, Thanks for the assistance. I removed the module last night, and reset it. So far, it worked as tested last night, and this morning it was working normal.....so I think it's fixed. I appreciate the help!
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Replying to: scottyd1 (Oct 21, 2008 4:55 am) How about that coolant level and rear heater? Arrie
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Replying to: arrie (Oct 21, 2008 8:58 am) I have the same problem as Scottyd1...my driver's side air blows HOT air even when selected to cool ..and the passenger side functions as normal I read your posting on re-seting the climate module and tried unplugging and plugging it back several times. Is there anything else i can try? PS...my problem also occurred immediately after installing a new battery.. thanks Eric
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Replying to: eric187 (Oct 25, 2008 4:21 pm) When you unplugged the two harnesses, you did have them both disconnected at the same time, correct? And you did have your key in OFF position while disconnecting the harnesses? Anyway, the problem seems to be with the climate control module so to fix it, if re-setting does not work, you might need to get a new (or new used) control module. Of course, it would be nice to be able to try someone else's control module that you know works and see if it makes yours behave as it should. Perhaps a used car parts store, i.e. junk yard, would let you try and purchase it if it fixes your problem. Some of them let you try parts like this. The problem could also be a stuck temperature control gate that mixes cold and hot air for set temperature but you said that the problem started right after battery change so the problem probably is with the control module. Arrie |
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The heater in my 1998 GMC Yukon works sporadically. Does anyone have any idea why this would happen? Thanks!
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Replying to: bbebensee (Jun 30, 2008 4:46 am) |
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Replying to: bobvanleeuward (Dec 11, 2008 2:21 pm) By opening I mean to place a thick shop rag on top of the cap and turning it slowly open to let pressure out from the reservoir. Pressure comes out when the spring loaded valve on the cap opens and lets vapor pressure out thru the drain line. This means that the cap is still on the threads but still be careful not to get hot liquid on yourself. Allowing vapor pressure out from the engine will let the cooling system to fill all the way. If your engine is not filled all the way you will see the level drop in the reservoir. I'm writing about this because it happened to me. I still had some level in the reservoir but was able to add almost 2 gallons of coolant to get level really up to the reservoir. Somehow this cooling system can get air bound and keep coolant from filling in the engine, which should never happen. If coolant level is too low you will not have enough flow thru the heater core and you will see thing happen like it heats when you rev-up the engine but then does not when on idle or during low rpm driving. Arrie |
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I just bought a 2004 Tahoe for my wife, we could start her car and let it idle forever with no heat. Anti-freeze level appeared correct in resavoir, added 1- 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze and Bingo, now heat will drive you out of car........ Thanx for the tip..........
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Replying to: rikkitikki (Jan 18, 2009 12:37 pm) You have a leak! You probably have the porous cylinder head cast problem that lets engine coolant to leak internally inside the engine. I would get BAR's radiator leak fix and pour it in the coolant expansion reservoir. You really need to do something and this is the cheapest fix that I know that at least worked for me. Arrie |
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