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GMC Yukon Climate Control AC and Heat Questions

109 messages,  Last post on Oct 02, 2009 at 3:30 PM

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What is this discussion about? GMC Yukon XL, Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Heating / Cooling, SUV

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#70 of 109 A/C problems 2002 Yukon by wilbanks Jun 30, 2008 (5:34 pm)
I have climate control. The A.C works sometimes and blows cold air and the it will turn off and A.C button on the bottom of control panel will blink and A.C turns off. And come back on after a while then back off. What is this a problem with the control panel? Replies to this message: rsht (Jul 20, 2008 6:34 am) stearnspk (Jul 21, 2008 6:20 pm)
#71 of 109 Re: Reprogramming Air Conditioning [jlflemmons] by gwf Jul 19, 2008 (5:34 pm)
Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 01, 2007 8:16 pm) Yep, can confirm the "pull-the-fuse" fix. I replaced the battery in my '04 XL Denali, and the front A/C would only blow full heat (I could control the fan, but the temp seemed to be max heat regardless of the panel setting). The rear controls seemed to work fine. I disconnected the battery a couple of times (key off) thinking that would reset, but apparently not. After reading this thread, I pulled the (front) A/C control fuse (I forget the label, but there's one for the front, and one for the rear), and drove the thing out to dinner. When we came out, I put the fuse back in, and was relieved that the system seemed to return to normal. Never had any prior issues with climate control. Thanks!!
#72 of 109 Re: A/C problems 2002 Yukon [wilbanks] by rsht Jul 20, 2008 (6:34 am)
Replying to: wilbanks (Jun 30, 2008 5:34 pm) Just my guess, have you checked to see if your AC system has the proper level of 134a? Replies to this message: stearnspk (Jul 21, 2008 6:20 pm)
#73 of 109 Re: A/C problems 2002 Yukon [rsht] by stearnspk Jul 21, 2008 (6:20 pm)
Replying to: rsht (Jul 20, 2008 6:34 am) We took it in and had the problem fixed. It ended up being a small hole made by the screw in the rear mud flap that caused a small leak. It was covered by the insulation so the dye was not visible where it was leaking. Thanks for your help.
#74 of 109 Re: 2007 Yukon Denali a/c problem [jlflemmons] by mefixit Jul 26, 2008 (7:13 am)
Replying to: jlflemmons (Oct 07, 2007 8:34 pm) Tried pulling the 10 amp fuse under the hood. Didn't seem to work. Is this the only fuse I need to pull?
#75 of 109 AC Quits when it rains..HELP by ceden35526 Aug 03, 2008 (2:20 am)
2002 Yukon XL / AC works great until there is a rain and you drive through a large puddle.   My 2002 Yukon XL AC works great until I go through a large puddle of water and then the air light on the panel blinks and the air goes off. After a while the light will go back on and the AC blows cold air again. Replies to this message: arrie (Aug 03, 2008 4:59 pm)
#76 of 109 Re: AC Quits when it rains..HELP [ceden35526] by arrie Aug 03, 2008 (4:59 pm)
Replying to: ceden35526 (Aug 03, 2008 2:20 am) I'm not sure what light you talk about? Do you mean the "snow flake" on the automatic climate control panel?   Anyhow, the problem with driving thru a large puddle of water could be that it momentarily disables the AC compressor. How it could do this is getting a lot of water on the compressor drive belt and pulleys.   The AC compressor is not driven by the fan belt. It has its own belt, which does not drive anything else but just the AC compressor. Location of the compressor is very low in front of the engine. It is actually as low as the crank shaft of the engine (this is how it is in my '04 Tahoe, which I believe is built the same for this part). Being this low in front of the engine makes it very likely to get a good wash if you drive thru a large (deep) puddle of water.   Your vehicle is 6 years old so the belt could be worn and rather easily slip when wet, unless you have replaced the compressor belt.   I have not replaced mine but when I changed my fan belt I looked at it and it appeared to be kind of a V-belt. V-belts start slipping very easily if they wear too narrow or the pulleys wear too wide. This causes the belt to "bottom out" on pulleys and the wedging provided high friction forces between walls of the pulleys and the belt are lost. If the belt / pulley condition is borderline a water flush can cause the compressor to stop for a moment until water dries out and this does not always cause belt squeal either. Then during normal dry conditions it works just without any problems.   Arrie
#77 of 109 Just wondering???? by culture Sep 14, 2008 (4:39 pm)
can I change my manual climate control to auto climate control in my 2007 GMC yukon
#78 of 109 Re: Bebensee [bbebensee] by arrie Sep 29, 2008 (8:15 am)
Replying to: bbebensee (Jun 30, 2008 4:46 am) Your rear vents not blowing hot can be cause by three things (not counting for obvious hose or other leaks in system).   1. The temperature control does not work, i.e. the gate that adjusts for temperature setting is stuck open on cold side. This could be electrical or mechanical problem. Unfortunately I have nothing to tell about this as I have not had electrical or mechanical problems with rear heaters on my '04 Tahoe.   You can do a simple test though. While parked rev-up your engine to 3000-3500 rpm and see if with this engine speed you get hot air coming out from rear vents. If you do then you do not have electrical / mechanical problem with rear heating system air mixing. Your problem is that with normal engine running speed you do not have engine coolant circulating thru rear heating core.   2. I did have a problem with only cold air coming out from rear vents. This happened when I also had engine overheating problem.   The problem was too low coolant level. I had some level in the expansion ganister under the hood but coolant was very low in the engine. You can easily check for this by opening the cap of the cooland expansion ganister after you drive and engine is hot (to do what the cap reads not to do). By opening I mean to loosening it just enough to let pressure out from the ganister. There is a spring loaded valve build in the cap, which will let pressure out much before the cap is actually opened and it all comes out safely thru the pressure relieve tube. At least this is how mine is built. Put a rag or towel over the ganister before you turn the cap.   If your coolant level is too low you will hear and see a lot of steam come out from engine in the ganister and at the end of this the coolant level in the ganister will drop. Mine went totally empty and to fill it up I added almost 2 gallons of coolant!   There are a lot of postings in this site about coolant leak and not finding the leak other than in cylinder head. I think I had this "porous cast" problem and it got fixed after adding some leak fix in the coolant.   It is a mystery why the coolant level in the expansion ganister does not go down as coolant disappears from the system. It must get air locked or something?   This is very dangerous situation for the engine as it really can overheat and burn as a result of low coolant level. Lost heat at heater is the first sign of coolant level being too low.   3. Your water pump could be going out, i.e. is worn out and does not give enough water flow to circulate coolant thru rear heater core. A worn pump would also give flow with elevated engine speed if you do the test that I mention in part 1 above, i.e. the test can indicate either low coolant level or worn out pump.   Arrie
#79 of 109 Climate control issue by scottyd1 Oct 20, 2008 (7:29 am)
I have tried to unplug the battery, pull the HVAC fuse under the hood, and stomp my feet...none of them seem to work.   My problem is that the passenger side and rear AC blow cold, while the driver side blows full heat. I have tried turning the car off...and drivers side blows cold for about 7 seconds...then..back to full heat....while the passenger side blows nice and cold.   This just started after I changed the battery last weekend.   Any other fixes I should try. The dealer wanted $800 for an evaporator and condenser....which is BS....and I have told them so. Replies to this message: arrie (Oct 20, 2008 8:33 am) scottyd1 (Oct 20, 2008 9:38 am)

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