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Ford Ranger Transmission Questions

215 messages,  Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 11:25 AM

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#120 of 215 1999 Ford Ranger - won't go into gear by cfowleron Aug 09, 2008 (4:35 am)
1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 4.0ltr V6, won't go into gear. This issue seems to be predominent from a stopped position. IE when I first attempt to place the truck into gear or at a traffic light (stopped). On the highway it seems to shift fine. When I am stopped and it won't go into gear, if I move the shifter into the pattern (ie first gear) it won't go all the way in but I can feel the truck want to engage (small jolt) as if it's in gear and the clutch were engaged at the friction point. Replies to this message: nak_machinist (Sep 23, 2008 11:24 pm) cfowleron (Sep 30, 2008 8:37 pm)
#121 of 215 2000 mazda same as ranger transmission problem by jclark5 Sep 17, 2008 (2:28 pm)
i have a 2000 mazda b3000 with the automatic overdrive transmission. it recently started shifting into second gear really hard, and the overdrive off light on the dash starts flashing. any idea what would cause this Replies to this message: cfowleron (Sep 17, 2008 5:13 pm)
#122 of 215 Re: 2000 mazda same as ranger transmission problem [jclark5] by cfowleron Sep 17, 2008 (5:13 pm)
Replying to: jclark5 (Sep 17, 2008 2:28 pm) Well, from the reading I've done through various forums, this forum seems to be reluctant to post, I gather it's a clutching issue. I've checked the hydraulic fluids and the levels are good, the master cylinder is good but the slave cylinder I'm not so sure about. The general concensus in this situation is the clutch but there have been a number of posts that suggest the slave cylinder as the culprit. However, they also suggest that bleeding / replacing the slave cylinder may only resolve the issue temporarily (by bleeding the slave cylinder they mean the entire system). Another post suggested that if you pull up on the clutch pedal it may help (I guess this is in reference to adjusting) this does nothing by the way (at least in my case - it's self-adjusting after all and there's no where for the clutch to go "up" - when it's out it's out).   The resolution I have come up with is to allow a few minutes for the system to warm up and I find that if I keep the RPMs up the shifting goes a lot smoother. Also, I've noticed that when it is difficult to get into gear, turning on the heating / cooling system will then allow me to go into gear so I'm guessing this is a load issue which is what makes me suspect the slave cylinder.   What I'm doing now, because I believe I may also have noticed slipping is to drive it until it gets stuck IN gear or flat out slips blatantly at which point I will exchange the clutch.   Wish I could be of more help but there are some other issues with the Ranger that I'm still working on - most recently a lit parking brake light on the dash that stays on intermittently (fluids are fine, could be emergency brake switch) and the check engine light that comes on every so often then disappears but the truck still drives normal, no stalling, squealing, pinging, knocking - could be a gas cap issue but like I say, still working on it - the code is proprietary to ford (tried to have it read at two separate shops) so I'm reluctant to dish out $150.00 to have it read when the truck's running fine.   If you do find a solution I'd be ecstatic if you'd let me know.   Cheers!   C
#123 of 215 Re: 1999 Ford Ranger - won't go into gear [cfowleron] by nak_machinist Sep 23, 2008 (11:24 pm)
Replying to: cfowleron (Aug 09, 2008 4:35 am) sounds like there is a pretty good chance slave cylinder is going on ya. i have an 2003 ranger 4x4 with the 4.0. mine acted a fool for about three months and finally left me stranded at work at 2 am none the less. i did the hole bleeding thing and it helped for awhile but ultimately in the end was a waste of time. slave cylinder is internal so you might as well change clutch. just changed mine about two months ago slave and clutch assembly ran bout 300.00 dollars and bout two days work. good luck. oh and when you bleed it pull up on a hill. will help getting air out of system tremendously Replies to this message: cfowleron (Sep 30, 2008 8:37 pm)
#124 of 215 Re: Why is my O/D flashing on 2001 3.0 auto ranger [thatoneguy] by leeschmdt Sep 27, 2008 (8:48 am)
Replying to: thatoneguy (Dec 19, 2006 7:38 pm) just wondering if any one had an idea about this issue. i am having the same problem with the O/D not turning off. what was the fix to this problem. my vehicle is a 2000 3.0L automatic ford ranger
#125 of 215 Re: 1999 Ford Ranger - won't go into gear [nak_machinist] by cfowleron Sep 30, 2008 (8:37 pm)
Replying to: nak_machinist (Sep 23, 2008 11:24 pm) That's what I was afraid of. LOL Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. I was hoping against that.
#126 of 215 2005 ranger..clunk noise by mgunde Oct 09, 2008 (4:25 pm)
When I start my truck in the morning or after work, there is a clunking thud sound that comes from the tranny area, it only happens when the truck is cold, its there only for the initial start up and goes away, its like something is being released any ideas on what this is?
#127 of 215 2005 ranger..cold air by mgunde Oct 09, 2008 (4:27 pm)
Even with the fan off, there's always cold air coming out of the vents, whats up with this?
#128 of 215 2000 ranger wont shift by maria16 Oct 16, 2008 (3:45 pm)
Help! My 2000 ranger currently will not shift gears and the check engine and abs lights are on, and the o/d light flashes. Also, the speedometer doesnt work. Does anyone know why this is happening and what needs to be done to fix it? Ty! Replies to this message: bolivar (Oct 17, 2008 1:04 am) marco32110 (Oct 22, 2008 2:37 pm) maria16 (Oct 23, 2008 10:13 am) bolivar (Oct 23, 2008 8:04 pm)
#129 of 215 Re: 2000 ranger wont shift [maria16] by bolivar Oct 17, 2008 (1:04 am)
Replying to: maria16 (Oct 16, 2008 3:45 pm) I think this is a 'standard' problem for Rangers, but I'm not sure of the problem. It may be the ABS sensor that is in the rear differential has failed, and it causes all these problems. If this is it, it's not a terrible expensive repair. Remove the electrical connection, one bolt, pull out the old sensor, put a new one it.

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