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SUVs Mazda Tribute Ford Escape/Tribute: Care & Maintenance
78 messages, Last post on Mar 05, 2010 at 9:09 AM
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Replying to: lmartin (Jun 10, 2005 6:45 am) advisor, they should tell you. |
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For what it's worth, pursuant to my post about replacing the alternator, some further issue arose. Namely when the alternator is replaced on top of everything I mentioned, the inner/outer CV joint or half-shafts have to be removed. Either upon removal or insertion the inner-joint boot tore. The shop says thye did not notice it, because there was no initial indication it was torn. The next day I started to hear grumbling (muffled marbles-sound) coming from the right front-end upon acceleration. ?The noise would go away or at least I couldn't hear it at speed. I looked underneath the fron-end and notice a pile of grease on a support member. I couldn't tell where it was broken, but I took it back into the shop. They admitted that they hadn't noticed anything unusal, but also admitted that thay were the ones that took out the half-shafts and reinstalled the after the replacement alternator was installed. The shop owner took complete responsibility and sent the complete shaft assembly out to rebuild it. I came back that afternoon and the rebuilt shaft was installed and car ready. So far so good. I am glad that the shop owner had the integrity to do what was right. Be forewarned, that if your alternator is replaced on V6 models then the same sequence of removal and installation will be done. Make sure that the shop does it right.
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Replying to: escapenut (Jun 14, 2005 9:03 am)  My 2001 V6 with 23000 miles on it died in traffic yesterday. Turns out I needed new alternator. I was charged over $500 for just the PART! Is there a difference between new and refurbished alternators? Is there a reason alternators go bad? Thanks.
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Replying to: jillh (Jun 17, 2005 7:41 am) Close to the catalytic convertor and a lot of engine heat. This is his opinion, and may or not be a contributing factor. GM alternators fail quite regularly and they're located at the top of most of their engines. It sounds as if you were charged for a brand new alternator, which would account for the high price you quoted. My refurbished one (cleaned-up casing, but totally rebuilt innards) cost me $242.00, exactly what ALLDATA said it would, which I subscribe to. The labor was exactly right at $152.00 too as ALLDATA quoted as well. If you were charged that much for a re-built alternator then you were charged too much in my opinion. Your '01 only has 23K miles ? That seems to be low mileage for that year model Escape. My milkes total 72.8K presently or roughly 18.2K per year. If it's the original alternator then I can understand that the time-frame seems to be right in-line for getting one replaced or about 4 yrs. |
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| Does anyone find that ventvisors cut down wind noise on this vehicle or add to the wind noise. I know this is not the true purpose of them but was hoping it would off set some noise. Please give honest opinion if its worth it. The tribute is not a bad noise level just sometimes noticeable. | |
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There's an 01 Escape for sale that we really like. It has around 120k miles on it!!! Which is enough to scare me away, however they said that quite a few of the miles came from pulling it behind their Winnebago. Sooooo If a vehicle is pulled rather than driven is there a difference? Should that even matter to me? I've heard some bad stories about ruining the transmissions and such because of the car being pulled. The Escape has the V6, leather, moonroof, and all the goodies which is the big lure for us, they are asking $8900 for it which doesn't seem too bad...it's really beautiful without any flaws. Thanks for any comments/suggestions. Dave
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Hello all, In April, I purchased a new 2005 Ford Escape XLT V-6. My concern is the creaking sounds from what seems like the entire chassis/frame when driving at low speeds. To describe what it sounds like is fairly easy...stacked styrofoam egg cartons being squeezed together and released. I thought maybe it had to go through a settling in process. But, this a new car, there shouldn't have to be any settling in process...Bummers. Its new too."> Currently my truck has 1600 miles on it and there are no other problems except for the creaking sounds. I suspect the problem maybe a body to frame seal or something like that. If it is something like that....thats major. How should I ask the dealership to fix the problem? Has anyone else had a problem like this? Thanks for your input...Aloha's
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Replying to: basmati (Jun 18, 2005 9:29 pm) Under very hot conditions, rubber expands and creates creaking sound by touching clean metal sufrace inside of the door frame where rubber touches door. You can spray WD40 too, but slicone is better and more protective. 
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Replying to: snowman (Jun 19, 2005 8:48 am) Thanks Snowman for the helpful tip. I'll give it a whirl and see what happens. Much mahalo's for the kokua! Basmati....
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Replying to: basmati (Jun 19, 2005 11:50 pm)
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