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Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute: Problems & Solutions

4133 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 5:59 AM

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Messages Page 406 of 414

#4048 of 4133 2001 ford escape: What now? by slenver

Dec 10, 2010 (7:26 pm)

This vehicle has sucked the life out of me! I bought this about 2 years ago for my daughter and problems started the very next day. That's what you get for "AS IS" junk! The first problem took months to figure out, it was the intake gaskets. It ran great for a couple months. The next problem took replacing nearly all the sensors, finally straightened out after replaced the MAF sensor. Once again all is well for several months. Now it has a high rpm problem. Sometimes when you stop and put it in park it will rev up to 4000 rpm's. It used to only be 2000 rpm and just ignored it. but now it sounds like it may blow up if you don't turn it off. today my daughter said it is even idling very high at the stop lights, like 2000 rpm. I'm going to put the old idle control back on tomorrow and see what happens. if that don't work I'll try the position sensor. any ideas on what could be causing this?

#4049 of 4133 Re: 2001 ford escape v6 [chappy36] by 1wizard

Jan 23, 2011 (1:07 pm)

Replying to: chappy36 (Jun 21, 2010 2:12 pm)
Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP), and check the wire attached to it. The sensor signals the the PCM when the crankshaft is 60-degress before top dead center(TDC) for cylinders 1 and 5. The PCM then computes actual TDC or any number of degrees before or after TDC and uses this info to control ignition spark advance. The CKP sensor also provides the engine speed signal to the PCM and is part of the misfire monitor circuit.
Also, poor cylinder combustion that causes engine misfire increases HC(Hydro-Carbons) in emissions in the exhaust. This can overload the catalytic converters and accelerate their deterioration.
If the problem is not leaky caskets, wires, plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors, or fuel filter this usually is the problem for misfires. I would relace this first before any other options. If the problem persists, check to see if your catalytic converter is clogged.The sensor is small and cost about $34. And if the converter is damaged, check to see if it's still under warranty. I believe most carry an 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Hope this helps.

#4050 of 4133 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [manymins14] by fishinfrank

Aug 11, 2011 (6:39 pm)

Replying to: manymins14 (Jul 07, 2010 9:43 pm)
Same problem. When it's over 90 degrees, the Escape stutters and acts like it might stall. Hesitation also occurred at highway speeds.
 
The Ford dealer came up with three codes: P0351; P0303; P 0316.
They replaced coil #1 and charged me $344. Same problem the next week. Dealer said they might have to replace another coil. I took it to a local mechanic with diagnostics. The owner told me the same codes, same solution.
 
A hot-shot mechanic working there said the code P0316 might indicate a bad wire to the computer. He replaced the wire. After a summer of record-breaking heat, I have had NO PROBLEMS! The cost for the second solution was $81.

#4051 of 4133 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [fishinfrank] by slenver

Aug 11, 2011 (8:53 pm)

Replying to: fishinfrank (Aug 11, 2011 6:39 pm)
I wonder how many other escapes have a bad or broken computer wire? Over the past 2 years I have replaced every external part on the engine. And before I continue , I was going to buy coils from AZ until I found out they were $85 each. I got 6 new ones off ebay for $95, not each but for a set of 6. regardless, still had problems. back in april my daughter come in complaining about the escape stalling, quitting, etc. the usual stuff that was almost a daily thing. I got to where I would ignore her but it was a dangerous situation. it would stop in traffic and it's a miracle she didn't get hit. anyway, this particular day I went out to look at it. I had done so much I really had nothing else I could think of. Out of frustration I just kind of started lightly pounding on things and tugging. I happen to grab the harness going into the computer and the engine stalled! Started right up, grabbed it again and it quit running. turns out a red wire which was hot (12v) was broke inside the insulation and I'm guessing it was broken for a long time. but with the way it was broke it was still getting contact. but certain things like hitting the brakes or sometimes accelerating would pull just enough for that break to separate. since the rubber insulation is stretchy it would hold it together. and I was getting all kinds of false codes because of the power interruption. luckily there was enough wire sticking out of the plug for me to splice it. the escape has been fine every since. I really believe it has been like that from the beginning and I have spent $100's trying to solve it. all new sensors, all of them! new coils, probably $500 on dealerships that said it was fixed only to have it happen again a day later. and tools, I have all kinds of fancy electronics now. I even had the leads and such to connect to my computer so I can read all the diagnostics and reprogram the computer. my daughter things I should become a ford escape specialist now.

#4052 of 4133 Re: 2001 ford escape v6 [1wizard] by lele1003

Aug 12, 2011 (11:16 am)

Replying to: 1wizard (Jan 23, 2011 1:07 pm)
I had the same problem with my 02 Escape, it failed to start after being driven when the engine was hot. A new IAC and fuel pump did not correct the problem. After reading this post I had the crankshaft positioning sensor changed and it runs and starts great!!! Thanks for your post!

#4053 of 4133 intake gaskets are something to keep in mind by slenver

Aug 12, 2011 (3:43 pm)

when we first started having issues with the 01' escape I took it to a local mechanic. they did some test and said the intake gaskets were leaking. when it was cold it ran terrible but once it heated up the gaskets were sealing. I told them to fix it, repair cost was $130. Picked it up and a nice hot day and it ran great. next morning the weather was cool and it was running like crap again. I was going to take it back to them but decided I would see just what they had replaced. I took the intake manifold off and there were new gaskets. But, I looked in my repair manual and it said there were upper and lower gaskets. Turns out there is what looks like a spacer or adapter about 4 inches deep that the manifold sits on. there is another identical set of gaskets on the bottom of that adapter. You would think these mechanics would have taken another 5 minutes to replace the lower gaskets but no. Guess they anticipated it would act up again and I would bring it back. That is what you call job security for mechanics, some anyways.
The gaskets set, upper and lowers in one kits cost me about $8. The lower gaskets were burnt to a crisp. Once I replaced those then it was fixed and ran great, for a few months.
If you ever have problems with sputtering and stalling while your engine is cold those gaskets are something to look at. There are probably 8 bolts or so that hold the intake/plenum on. once they are out you can pretty much swing the plenum back so access the gaskets.

#4054 of 4133 Escape 2.0 FWD 5 spedd Running Problem by auralvoodoo

Aug 29, 2011 (10:45 am)

I own a 2003 Escape that I love. It has 122K mostly trouble free miles. Recently I replaced the head gasket and all the related gaskets, water pump & pulley, tension adjuster, serpentine belt, idler pulley, plugs and wires. etc. Followed all of the instructions as req'd to a "T".
Recently i got a code P0171 (lean condition bank 1) along with the check engine light. There are no vacuum leaks anywhere (already checked). Vehicle has become sluggish off the line, fuel economy has dropped from about 27 mpg to 21 mpg. Traveling at speed up a moderate grade I have to shift from 5th to 4th and sometimes to 3rd to get up the hill. Performance is suffering. Odd thing is that at night it runs better (it's cooler), during the day when the temp gets over 75 degrees it turns into a slug. It never was a formula one vehicle but the performance was pretty good for a 2.0 liter 4cylinder FWD with a 5 speed.
Before I start throwing a bunch of parts at this thing (Maf sensor (removed and cleaned), fuel pump, injectors (fuel injector cleaner in gas tank 2 bottles), Throttle body (cleaned) does anybody have an idea what might be causing this and the solution?
Thanks
Auralvoodoo

#4055 of 4133 05 Escape by trg3

Nov 18, 2011 (11:16 am)

I am have a problem with my 2005 Ford escape as far as the idle goes.. I can be driving 45 or more mph and the idle will go from 2000 to 1000 as if it was trying to cut off on me, as i am driving.. I also having problems with when i stop at lights and it completely stalling out, with me having to hurry and restart it. its been in the shop this would be the 4th time and ive only had the vehicle for 9 months. spending so far about 600.00 only because i have a limited warrente, i had a diagnostic that was following a faulty fuel module followed by a fuel pump.. still this hasn't fixed my stalling issue.. and I also noticed that the air bag sensor keeps coming on.. I have 4 kids and this is really scary to not know what is going on with my car. especially when its getting cold outside.

#4056 of 4133 Re: 2003 Ford Escape stalls out [coopchang] by tech50

Nov 25, 2011 (3:47 pm)

Replying to: coopchang (Jan 06, 2008 6:41 pm)
Stalling in todays common vehicles are do to allot of sensors and other technical factors. In my exp. Stalling can be due to a faulty EGR valve, A much needed tune up and not changing the oil on a timely basis not a mileage basis, I change mine sometimes every 1,500 miles, because while the engine is indeed running, and the wheels are not, you have no idea how many non running miles are on the engine due to stop signs, red lights and traffic.

#4057 of 4133 Re: 2002 Ford Escape idle/stalling problem [fishinfrank] by tech50

Nov 25, 2011 (3:58 pm)

Replying to: fishinfrank (Aug 11, 2011 6:39 pm)
You need to replace all coils when you have the engine disassembled, for cost sake or it will be another cost to uncover the intake manifold again, I recommend that everyone with coil issues replace theirs every 100,000 miles all 6 or 4 or be stranded. On a six cylinder people it is easy, take the plenum cover off with a 5/16 socket and disconnect the neg side of battery, then unscrew the coil and replace, reconnect the neg wire and your done, average cost of on coil is 75.00 for one not installed.

Messages Page 406 of 414

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