Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Vans & Minivans Chevrolet Uplander Chevy Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza
2867 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 5:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Uplander Forum. Your Host is Karens
|
|
|---|---|
|
I see after years of being away from this forum that everyone is still having loads of problems with these vehicles. Here are a few solutions to some of your problems that totally resolved the issues for me on my 05' SV6: Cupping rear tires even when rotated properly: Replace the stock rear shocks! The stock rear shocks are complete garbage. I noticed how bouncy the rear was with the stock shocks after driving behind it. Even the smallest bump in the road the rear would bounce 3-4 times then settle. On bigger bumps the rear wheels would skip, causing the cupping. I replaced the rear shocks (I have the load levelers too) with Monroe replacement load leveling shocks for $70 for the pair and it fixed the problem and helped the handling immensely. It also made it feel much more stable on straight roads. Warped brake rotors: Replace the stock rotors and pads with GOOD aftermarket rotors and pads (not cheap Ebay rotors and NOT Delco or GM replacements). The TSB about the dust shields is one of the lamest "fixes" I have ever seen. It was definitely poor rotor quality. I replaced mine at 35,000 miles with Centric rotors and Akebono pads and I have NO warpage after 33,000 miles. I did not have the work mentioned in the TSB for the dust shields done. I also had the stock front sway bar links go bad on both sides. I replaced them with the much thicker and heavier Napa units and wow, what a difference. Between the rear shocks and the front links, the van handles 100 times better than the day I drove it off the lot. No more massive oversteer; it handles very well for its size and stance. The fact that the links helped the handling tells me the stock links were too thin and they were flexing under pressure, and the ball joint on the stock links are way too small for the load the vehicle puts on them causing them to fail. Now I have a bad steering rack (3/4" play in the steering wheel). Probably started after the accident when the ABS pump failed, locked up the wheels and it went over an 8" curb destroying the front suspension at 12,000 miles. I also have to replace the front wheel bearings again (dealers replaced them twice already when it had a warranty). I am NOT hard on this vehicle. I may drive spirited, but I do not drive it hard. If anything I drive my IS300 extremely hard and it's still running strong at 107,000 miles with NO mechanical issues. I mean I have 60,000 miles on the front brake pads! Also, for those getting the hot trans fluid warning, I have a fix that might work. I noticed that after 15,000 miles my trans fluid was burnt to a crisp. Then my final drive died at 20,000 which was covered by warranty. They fixed that and filled it with new fluid. At 35,000 I noticed the fluid was cooked again. At 36,000 I replaced the trans fluid with the new Dexron VI fluid (05's came with Dexron III) and added a Tru-cool transmission cooler. Now after 30,000 miles it is just barely getting that burnt smell. I will be flushing it again. I talked to the 4T65E experts and they say there is something wrong with my trans to be generating that much heat. I beg to differ. I think the trans is way under built for this vehicle and the shifts are far to sloppy. This isn't a 3400 lb Grand Prix; this is a 4300 lb behemoth. Anyway, I hope some of these tips help some of you. This thing has been a nightmare since the day I bought it and continues to be to this day. Every month it's something new with it. But I am stuck with it so I am slowly fixing it properly with non-OE parts that work much better than stock. |
|
|
|
|
I can confirm about the rotors - we must have had ours in 6 times for rotor problems when it was under warranty. Since putting in good rotors there have been no problems at all (with that). We had problems with the vehicle always going dead - I figured out that the cheap sheet-steel battery terminals were the problem. I replaced them with "premium" ($4) battery terminals (made with bronze and lead, apparently) from AutoZone and all of the battery charging problems have gone away. This might be blamed on the State of California which is afraid of pregnant women chewing on battery terminals, but, hey, other vehicles manage to get it right. We just got hit on inspection for bald-on-the-inside tires (we get 2 years max out of a set of highest-quality silica tires, 1 year out of normal ones). I'll get the shocks replaced, thanks for the tips, Nate! |
|
|
Replying to: natenbeckie (Oct 15, 2009 10:50 am) My wife bought an '09 Montana SV6 last March 30-2009. Since then, I've used/learned the below improvements. Items that could possibly be applied to your '05 Montana SV6 van as well. The "factory" rear shocks seem to be "OK" on our new van. They give an ok ride and when they wear out, we'll be replacing within non-GM shocks as well. Probably go with a manual ride adjustment Rancho shock. re: http://www.gorancho.com/products/shocks.php For our van "without" factory towing package, I installed Timbrens SES units. If wondering, Timbrens are like air bags without pressurized air inside them. They replace the factory bump stops (inside the rear coil springs) and are great for van's containing more then 2 people, rear cargo and/or towing a trailer. Timbren SES units is an excellent rear suspesnion upgrade in my wife's van. Especially since "factory" air shocks / air compressor systems are known for expensive repair problems as well. To me, Timbrens SES units are a great "install it and leave it" suspension upgrade. Wish they were minimum "factory build" on many different brands of vehicles. You may want to install Timbren SES units on the rear of your van as well. For more details on Timbren SES units, surf: http://www.anythingtruck.com/susp_timbren.html Note: Do shop around because prices for exact same product does vary... It's true the BEFORE 2007 Montan vans are known for `warped` front brake rotor problems. Thus, explaining why GM started using much larger (better) front brake system in their 2007+ vehicle builds. re: Larger disc and 6 bolt system instead of 5 bolts. On my wife's '09 Montana van, its brakes are great (actually, they are awesome). They stop the vehicle much faster then our other GM vehicle. Probably because of the larger / better front bake system. The 4T65E does have its weak design. For more details,surf details within: http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E_Transmission_Info.html My local transmission specialist told me that GM factory transmissions "love to run hot". He told me that GM vans (Montana, Uplander, Venture, Safari/Astro) "over stress" (which means heat spikes) when struggling against strong head winds and up hills. Especially while also loaded down with more then 2 people. He told me to install an LDP Transmission cooler (for 3,500 lbs or 5,000 lbs for towing/hauling) in my vans and it will keep their transmission oil much cooler. If wondering, I installed LPD design ATF coolers in both my vans (previous Safari and current '09 Montana) and they both run great. Don't think I'll debate your "doesn't run too hot" statement. To me, if the ATF oil is burnt, then its ATF must be enduring some heat "spikes". As a suggestion, install LPD design cooler (like: http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_- - - - - - - Code=OC-1678&Category_Code=hayden-transaver&Product_Count=2 ) in your van and it will keep your van's ATF much cooler. As he says, "cool ATF = less risk of problems". And in winter time for below freezing conditions, simply wrap the LPD cooler with a warm covering. Thus, eliminating "wind chill" exposure. Thus, helping keep its ATF above freezing - during cold winter months. The battery in my wife's 09 Montana van had to be replaced as well. One of its cells was shot and it kept going dead after sitting 3+ days. After battery replacement, our van has been starting / running great. Thus, I would point the "problem pointer finger" at Delco battery maker - not at the factory line that makes / assembles the GM mini-van. To me, the new 3.9L VVT engine in my wife's '09 van is awesome. It's got lots of "available juice" under its hood. When needed, this new technology engine can quickly pull the van around slower moving traffic, and/or can easily pull 2,000+ lbs trailer without over stressing itself (and its transmission ATF). And surprising, this larger engine gets great MPGs on the smooth and consistant speed hiway as well. This larger engine loves the gas in the "stop / go" city traffic but on a steady speed hiway, I'm impressed with its good MPGs. From take off and pulling power perspective, the 3.9L VVT easily "blows the doors off" our other GM vehicle - which has a 2003 3.4L engine. If hauling / towing or loaded down with more then 2 people needs, get its 3.9L VVT engine. Having more "available power" under the gas peddle is worth it. ----------- IMO, the 3rd brake light allows water around its lens. I installed clear silicone around my van's 3rd brake light. For keeping water out of this area, this trick works great. IMO, its factory "low beam" H11 lights are too dim. A few months ago, I installed H9 light bulbs in the "low beam" sockets. Had to modify its PVC H11 plug (3 minutes for each modification) to make them the H9s bulbs. But once modified / installed, the H9 bulbs are much brighter then factory H11 bulbs. And best of all, H9 bulbs are fraction of the purchase price compared to "high power / ultra bright" H11 bulbs. If you find your van's factory H11 bulbs are too dim, do investigate "making" the H9 bulbs fit instead. Worked great for my wife's '09 van. To me, the Montana model (even my wife's 09 SV6 EWB 1SB model) van is "entry level". GM advertises their van as expensive $32,000 vehicle but to me, these van's don't come close to the quality of other mini-van makers. Especially when compared to other $28,000 - $32,000 selling mini-vans. Luckily, my wife got her '09 Montana van at 1/2 of suggested selling price. If we had to pay $32K for a van, I'd pick a non-GM van. Sorry.... But to me, the other mini-vans are built better, have more features and are more reliable. And, have better ride comfort. For a lower cost "entry level" van, the "on sale" SV6 van "will fit our needs". Again, this is IMO. Luckily, my wife's van was at a final "out the door" price we couldn't walk away from.... Hope this feedback helps others as well... . |
|
|
Replying to: natenbeckie (Oct 15, 2009 10:50 am) natenbeckie I thought more about your "after 15,000 miles my trans fluid was burnt to a crisp" statement. As a suggestion, do investigate the following troubleshooting ideas: A - Follow the van's current ATF fluid cooling lines and ensure one of them isn't crushed or kinked. And, their piping flow seems to be smooth. Less plumbing elbows, the better. And if one needs elbows around sharp corners, then ensure its a "smooth turn" more then 3" bend elbow as well. And if necessary, replace the factory steel lines (that seem to have too many little bends) with new rubber lines - lines rated for ATF. And, route the new rubber lines in better flow locations. When it comes to fluid flow, less resistance around corners the better. Using replacement piping with larger size "inside" ID is good thing as well. B - Ensure your mechanic installed your existing LPD aux cooler properly. For my wife's 09 van, I took the ATF line out of the "top" of the main rain and re-routed it into the newly installed 5,000 lbs aux cooler. From ATF aux cooler back to the transmission. Thus, ensuring flow is also in the "main rad" as well. For a few pictures, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/Main-RadT- - - - - - ophose-4.jpg http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/AuxTransC- - - - - - ooler-Lookingdowngrill.jpg http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/AuxTransC- - - - - - ooler-UpperSupport-2.jpg http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/AuxTransC- - - - - - ooler-UpperSupport-1.jpg http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/Main-RadT- - - - - - ophose-1.jpg http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/Hosesinfr- - - - - - ontgrillarea-4.jpg While confirming how to install an aux cooler in my wife's van, I read about a shop that put the transmission's line into the ATF aux cooler rad and back out (and completely bi-passed the van's main rad). OUCH!!!! Definately the wrong install method. For your van's ATF aux cooler install, do ensure its installed properly as well. re: Using both main rad "along with" optional ATF aux cooler rad. For proper cooling, both RADs are needed. C - Install the proper sized LPD aux cooler. To me, the sizing of ATF aux cooler must be for an attached 3,500 lbs trailer (as minimum). If one lives in hilly region, hotter climate, does lots of stop/go traffic and/or often loaded with more weight of 2 people, then use ATF aux cooler sized for attached 5,000 lbs trailer. For example: http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_- - - - - - Code=OC-1678&Category_Code=hayden-transaver&Product_Count=2 D - Do ensure the ATF "flow rate" is ok as well. This can be done by pulling off the transmission rubber lines and sticking both rubber ends into a clean 1 gallon container. Have someone else start the engine, let idle and put into "D" gear, and keep the other foot firmly on its brake pedal (along with emergency brake on). While in "D" gear and idling, ATF oil should spray out of "one" re-routed rubber lines. I cannot remember the exact flow rate but it should be around "minium" 1 gallon per minute. Or was the 3 gallons per minute (????). If your van's oil line don't flow this fast, its internal ATF pump is shot (and needs to be replaced). For exact flow rate (for your van), do "double check" with your local GM mechanic. They have minimum ATF flow rate specs in their Montana Service Manuals. Hope these troubleshooting ideas help your van.... .
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: natenbeckie (Oct 15, 2009 10:50 am) About the rotors...do you feel the need to replace all four? My issues always seem to be with the front pulsating. Can you put aftermarket (better) rotors up front and leave the GM OEM ones in the back? Thanks, Bill
|
|
|
|
| I believe we had the same problem, replacing the fronts with non-cheap rotors stopped the pulsing problem. I think due to mileage we've had them all replaced by now (at a non-GM shop) and haven't had a recurrence. | |
|
|
|
Replying to: bsrice (Feb 25, 2008 1:56 pm) |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: spike99 (Oct 17, 2009 9:09 am) The lines are not kinked. I checked the line flow and its fine. This isn't the first one I have seen like this and my buddy's 07' Impala SS was the same way with the 4T65E-HD. This is another case of GM design and engineering being flawed. In fact, I went over the 30,000 mile fluid service interval on my IS300 (45,000) and I just did a flush on it this past weekend. The fluid was still red. Not the bright translucent red Toyota T-IV is out of the can but it was without a doubt still red. My SV6 on the other hand is showing more hues of brown than red at this point after roughly 32,000 on the fluid with the LPD on it (I installed it at the same time I did the flush). The 3.9 was a much better engine for this van all-around. I wish I had at least waited for it. Better yet, I wish I would have kept my Mazda MPV. |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: uplanderguy (Oct 22, 2009 2:02 am) If you look, you will notice the rear pads wear equally as fast as the front, if not faster. I don't know how they have the brake proportioning set up on this thing, but it's heavy on the rear. This is the 2nd set of pads that were put on at the same time as the fronts (first set were the original pads) that have worn as much on the rear as the front. I thought maybe the rear calipers were sticking but they aren't. It's just how it is. |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: sv6regal (Mar 19, 2008 7:02 am) |
|
You are here:
Forums
Vans & Minivans Pontiac Montana Chevrolet Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2008 Chevrolet Uplander
2005 Pontiac Montana
2007 Saturn Relay
2007 Buick Terraza
2006 Pontiac Montana SV6
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
