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Buick Regal Brake Problems

31 messages, Last post on Oct 20, 2009 at 3:07 PM
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I want to ask all GM owners who experience this problem to write to GM demanding they fix this problem, if enough people get involved they have to do something. It is a safety issue after all. The address is: General Motors Corporation Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33136 Detroit, Michigan 48232-5136
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Replying to: countrygal5943 (Jan 06, 2006 1:24 pm) I really like my car, it is just a good size for me, easy to park, runs strong, handles good and only has 133K on it. I thought about trading it off but no one will give me what it is worth, I have only been offer $200 on a trade. I noticed other posts about rotors and someone is also having trouble with their power windows, mine is the drivers window, been out for 2 years. My AC also quit at the same time. I can handle those problems but this brake issue is getting expensive. HELP!!!!
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Replying to: countrygal5943 (Mar 13, 2006 4:32 pm) The trick is to find the underlying cause of the brake problem. It could be a faulty proportioning valve that is giving more braking action to the rears than to the front, or maybe it is as simple as flushing the brake lines and filling with new brake fluid. Who knows? Take it in. Before you authorize anyone to fix anything, make sure they explain what the root problem is so that YOU can understand it. Write it down if you have to. Then decide if the car is worth keeping.
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Replying to: tsu670 (Mar 13, 2006 5:57 pm) According to the garage that does all my work this is a typical problem for these cars plus 4 other GM models but I have to wonder. I haven't heard anyone else complain about this exact problem and there are thousands of this model on the road, some look worse than mine. I will see if they can find the problem other than caliper next month when I take it in again for the same thing. Thanks for the reply |
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I have owned two regals 2000 & 02. Both go through rear rotors in less then 12000 miles. Dealer says its is normal. What gives? They do not appear overheated, but they always show signs of Metal spalding. Anyone have a solution? Sounds like another class action law suit for faulty rear brakes like the grand prixs went through.
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Replying to: yoakem (May 14, 2006 7:04 pm)
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Replying to: jpstax1 (May 16, 2006 9:35 am) |
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I've been getting a little vibration from braking(in the brake pedal) the past 3-4 months. Is more noticeable now...most noticeable between 25-45mph. Almost no vibration lower than 25 mph. Yesterday I felt the vibration in the steering column at around 45mph. Also, seems more noticeable the longer the car is driven. I've only put around 14,000 miles on my 99 Regal LS in the two years I've owned it. The lady who previously owned vehicle(whom I called from dealership) stated she had recently paid for a $900 brake job. Which I assumed to be rotors and brakes. Any ideas? Have these particular models had problems with rotors warping prematurely? Thanks.
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Replying to: jipster (May 24, 2006 6:47 am) For someone to pay $900 for a brake job sounds incredibly high, unless for some reason the dealer talked the customer into also replacing calipers. The key to any good brake job is the quality of the parts. There's lots of cheap junk out there that retailers mark up to improve their bottom line. Years ago NAPA was well known for the brake pads and rotors it sold, and to my knowledge they're still good. In fact, I just bought and installed a set on a Buick Century for one of my twin boys last weekend. He bought the car used a year and a half ago from a dealer who had installed new brakes on it. The old pads I took off were a joke. The NAPA pads had at least 25% greater braking surface area than the pads installed by the dealer. Rotors are the same way. You get what you pay for. Another idea: It might be wise to check the torque on the lug nuts holding the wheels onto the rotors. If they are too tight they can cause premature rotor warping. On these cars they should be tightened no more than 100 foot pounds. I always check the torque when I get the car home after having the tires rotated. On one occasion they were tightened to 125 foot pounds despite my exact instructions.
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Replying to: tsu670 (May 24, 2006 5:09 pm) I asked if he could check the rotors. He went out and looked at them with another advisor or mechanic.They used some type of metal protractor device to check the rotor specifacations. Then called me in to show me where the rotors were worn/scratched on one part of the rotor and smooth on another part. Suggested I have front rotors turned. Which I did for $60 plus brake adjustment. Well, that seems to have done the trick as they brake fine now. It is curious though as to how a bunch of tiny microscopics scratches in a rotor can cause vibration in the brakes.
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