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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

472 messages,  Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV


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#91 of 472
Re: 1997 Chevy Blazer dome lights staying on..... [ealvarez] by gfr214
Mar 23, 2007 (5:33 am)
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Replying to: ealvarez (Mar 21, 2007 1:37 pm)

I will give that a try and let you know if that worked.
 
Thanks....
#92 of 472
1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem by bri_4623
Apr 12, 2007 (4:48 pm)
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This has been driving me crazy for months!!!
I seem to have a dead short in the circuit that conrols my rear lift for the glass, the interior light and the horn. I can't even put a fuse in the fuse box for this circuit.
It started as an intermittant blowing of the fuse when I would open the rear glass.
Anyone else experienced this?
Any ideas of where to start, I have to go through inspection next month?
#93 of 472
Re: 1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem [bri_4623] by repairdog
Apr 13, 2007 (3:18 am)
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Replying to: bri_4623 (Apr 12, 2007 4:48 pm)

I would point you to the known 97 only failure of the ignition switch which is not the key/tumbler but the column wiring and connector that causes many strange electrical problems. Look it up at the online auto sites and see the pic. Get a GM dealer to do the work.
#94 of 472
Re: 1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem [repairdog] by bri_4623
Apr 13, 2007 (4:59 am)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 13, 2007 3:18 am)

Ok will do. Lately the ignition has been sticking, I sometimes have a problem turning the key to lock position and pulling it out of the ignition, I'm wondering if it is related.
I guess this is a pretty extensive job as you would have to open up the steering column. Sounds expensive, maybe I'll just wire the horn up so that it works off a different circuit just to get through inspection. It doesnt really bother me to have to jump the fuse block to open my rear hatch, I just leave it open most of the time, not latched comepletely. Thanks for the info!!!
#95 of 472
Re: 1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem [bri_4623] by repairdog
Apr 13, 2007 (3:25 pm)
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Replying to: bri_4623 (Apr 13, 2007 4:59 am)

Not that bad but need some tools and time and if that key is sticking you may soon be stuck going nowhere - easier to do it when you don't need to tow it in! Good luck.
#96 of 472
Re: 1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem [repairdog] by bri_4623
Apr 14, 2007 (2:41 pm)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 13, 2007 3:25 pm)

Could this have something to do with an aftermarket alarm and remote start system? I bought the car used and it was already installed, I actually found this out while I was trying to find my short. I don't want it nor use it. Should I have it taken out or would that cause nore problems than it is worth?
#97 of 472
Re: 1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem [bri_4623] by repairdog
Apr 14, 2007 (4:17 pm)
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Replying to: bri_4623 (Apr 14, 2007 2:41 pm)

Yes, that remote start capability can screw up the security system called Passlock. If a local shop put it in best it they take it out or for about $150 get a new one installed that will remove all the old stuff. Biggies like Circuit city and Best buy all guarentee them for as long as you own it and the remote locks are great - just the simple locks and alarm is all and got them put in two 98s with great results. 99 up came with remote entry.
#98 of 472
Re: 1997 Blazer 2 door 4wd Electrical problem [repairdog] by bri_4623
Apr 15, 2007 (2:47 pm)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 14, 2007 4:17 pm)

Unforunatly, I have no previous history on the car. I bought it 2 years ago with 65,000 on it, now it hasa 98,000 on it, no other major problems except the fuel filler gasket. I guess there might be a sticker on the main brain of the system. I'll check into it. Thanks you have been a big help.
#100 of 472
Electrical problem by fjdavid
May 09, 2007 (12:40 pm)
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I have a strange situation on my daughters 97 Blazer (4.3 liter V6, 4WD). Her fiancé and I pulled the motor to replace the crank shaft and bearings. He removed some of the basic items and disconnected the wiring. We then removed the motor, I rebuilt the bottom end and replaced the motor while he was at work. He finished up reinstalling the rest of the items and reconnected the wiring harness. When he reconnected the battery – nothing. No lights, horn, ignition etc. I traced the wires going from the battery to the starter, alternator and all was correct. However, there was a smaller diameter wire that connected to the battery with a factory quick connect which is too small a diameter to carry the vehicle electrical needs.
 
On the starter there are two wires, one to the solenoid and one large from the battery. Is there suppose to be another wire attached to the starter to transfer 12V to the rest of the car? If not where does the main juice from the battery to the chassis electrical connect? The main power block on the drivers side near the firewall has no power either.
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Frank

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