Last post on Nov 05, 2013 at 7:31 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV
#586 of 609 Re: 95 chevy blazer electrical problems [toleson]
Sep 14, 2011 (9:39 am)
OK HERE GOES I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 1995 S10 AND DROVE ME CRAZY. aLL YOUR FRONT WIRING AND REAR WIRING LIGHTS ARE CONNECTED TO THE EMERGENCY FLASHER IN THE COLUMN. YOU WILL LOOSE LIGHTS AND THINGS WILL GO CRAZY. FIX TAKE A SMALL SCREW DRIVER JEWLERS UNIT AND PRY THE DIRECTIONAL SWITCH INSERT OUT OF THE COLUMN. GET A NEW EMERGENCY SWITCH INSERT AND JUST PUSH IT INTO THE COLUMN HOUSING WHERE YOU JUST PULLED OUT THE OLD ONE. PART IS AVAILABLE AT THE DEALER FOR ABOUT AROUND $25 DOLLARS IF I REMEMBER
LOTS OF LUCK. CHARLIIE AT LUCKYMURFFAOL.COM
#587 of 609 blown fuse
Oct 10, 2011 (1:41 pm)
I recently replaced my battery on my 2001 jimmy a few weeks latter my doors would not lock with my remote which has new battery also, and when i used the power locks a fuse blew and every time i replace it, it blows again and without my power locks i cant lock the rear hatch does anone have any ideas. Thanks
#588 of 609 Re: electrical problems [ccbecke]
Oct 22, 2011 (9:41 am)
I had a similar problem with the wipers that also caused my cruise control to work rarely if at all. After several expensive attempts to fix my problems, I discovered that replacing the fuses improved matters. Eventually I replaced or reconditioned all fuses in both the dash and underhood boxes. Again, things improved but were not entirely reliable. I then pulled the fuses again and sprayed all of the fuse sockets with T40, and anti-corrosion formulation. I also sprayed a few accessible harness sockets. That was two months ago. No electrical problems since.
#589 of 609 Re: electrical problems [blueheron1]
Oct 22, 2011 (10:20 am)
I do not know how a S10 Chevrolet can survive in the rust belt for more than five years because of the corrosion of the delicate electrical connections. The S10 is a delicate vehicle and needs constant attention.
That is why you hardly ever see an S10 on used car lots. That is because by the time an S10 is more than six or seven years old it is worthless and is sent to the salvage yard. When a S10 reaches the salvage yard it is immediately crushed because there is nothing on it worth salvaging.
Some auto repair shops refuse to work on a S10 because when the owner gets the bill, he will tell the shop to keep the car and sell for charges...if they can. I had a shop refuse to bleed my1991 S10 Blazer ABS brakes because they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool and did the did not have an employee that know how to do it. A GM Tech 1 scan tool costs about $400 and the repair shop would not use it more than once every four or five years. I finally bled the brake without a Tech 1 scan tool but it took two people and about 8 hours to do it. That would be $1100 at a auto repair shop.
#590 of 609 Re: 99 Blazer electrical problem [tlmorgan]
Oct 26, 2011 (6:59 pm)
Me and my wife had a similar problem with a 1992 Honda Accord. We had replaced the distributor to solve a problem with an engine code reporting a failure of the TDC position sensor. The car worked fine for a few days. Then, after driving the car for about 20 miles, the car sputtered. Less than a minute later, the car completely died. I couldn't start it again for at least an hour. Turns out a sensor in the alternator was overheating and shutting down the spark network. When it dies, you can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires and inserting a flathead screwdriver into the socket on the wire. Do not hold onto the screwdriver for the next step. Have someone try to start the vehicle and see if there is a spark. If there is no spark, pull the wire off of the distributor that leads from the ignition coil. Repeat the previous test with the screwdriver in the wire from the coil. If there is spark, the problem may be with the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark, the coil may be bad. An overheating coil can fail and then work again once cooled.
From what you described, it sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator failed. There is a chance that voltage spikes may have damaged the computer. I would have it checked by a Chevy dealer. If the computer is fine, there is a chance the replacement alternator is defective. Most alternators that you buy at auto parts stores are not new, they are remanufactured. They take old alternators and replace only what they have to in order to get them working again. They then send them back to the stores to be resold. I can't tell you how many parts I have had to take back due to remanufacturing defect.
Also, check with your insurance company for emergency roadside assistance. I have it on my insurance for $3 a month and it covers all towing within 50 miles of the towing destination. It's saved me several times.
#591 of 609 Starting problems
Nov 29, 2011 (7:21 am)
I have 1995 S10 Chevy Blazer. Recently I've had issues starting it. In the beginning it would take 3 - 4 turns of the key to start it. Now it has progressed to 3-4 turns of the key with a pump of the gas pedal. New this morning. Turned the key and got no dash lights and CD player did the eject as if battery was disconnected, then another turn of the key power restored and a few more turns of the key and a pump or 2 of the gas pedal and it started. Any ideas what to check for an easy fix?
#592 of 609 Re: power windows and more...HELP [bitter]
Dec 01, 2011 (6:32 pm)
I think I may have found my salvation! Years ago my power locks, seats, and remote stopped working. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't fix it but I had to pay $300 labor. The dome light also went on and off by itself, but that's minor Then the key became stuck in the igniton. Now about 3 months ago, the AC would momentarily turn off when I hit any of the power window buttons (includes heat or any blower functions at all)--then the 2 brake lights on the dash started going on and off constantly--at this point the the AC and windows entirely ceased to function. I'm a divorced mom and I don't have anyone to help me, and auto problems are a HUGE expense. I have had this truck for 10 yrs and it has been so reliable it ALWAYS starts for me but this was making it impossible here in FL not being able to turn on the AC OR ROLL THE WINDOWS down when it's 98 outside. I'm going to buy the IGN switch and change it out and I hope so much this fixes it! TY ALL!
#593 of 609 Re: NEED HELP ASAP 95 BLAZER HEADLIGHTS WONT TURN ON [hatemyblazer]
Dec 02, 2011 (5:46 pm)
If this only effects the automatic headlights but they work if you turn the switch manually you might have a weak spring on the emergency bake if the E-brake is depressed even slightly it will disable the automatic headlights from working....Good luck
#594 of 609 Re: ABS Issues [ohioracer]
Dec 02, 2011 (5:55 pm)
I had the same problem with my 98 Blazer. The problem is definetly the low speed sensors I changed mine and it still didn't work most of the time when you replace the sensors alone they don't work. I replaced the both hubs with the matching sensors and that did the trick!!!! Actually it dosen't hurt to replace the hubs as part of your maintenance. Good luck
#595 of 609 Re: 4x4 not working [lzacharyjw]
Dec 02, 2011 (6:34 pm)
I know its been a long time since you posted the problem with your blazer (4x4 problem) I was wondering if you ever fixed it and if you did what the problem was?