Last post on Nov 05, 2013 at 7:31 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV
#583 of 609 Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Electric Locks [terry113]
Jul 16, 2011 (6:39 pm)
i have a similar issue on a 93 s10 pickup and i have replaced the main circuit breakers for the power acc. and the power windows on the fuse panel under the dash and have traced wires all day and have found no shorts or breaks in wires and than began trouble shooting power issues and traced the power wires all the way into the power motors inside the doors both locks and windows on both doors and have power to both motors....... i was reading a post a few mins ago about a 2000 chevy astro van same issues guy went thru every single fuse on the panel found a fuse blown for a secondary cigarette lighter replaced it and it worked so im thinking somehwere might be a relay that doubles over for switches and ties into this system somewhere and that fuse is blown causing the relay not to work
check every single fuse on the panel both under the hood and in the dash if all the fuses check out fine than there has to be a relay somewhere that we are over looking im going to look into this solution tomorrow myself and if i get it fixed i will let you know my results.....
#584 of 609 Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Electric Locks [sev85]
Jul 17, 2011 (12:00 pm)
that would be very helpfull , thank you , i do have multiple cigerette lighter holes for other things , there rite above the center console on the pass side , but i think they work , it all started with the push button latch on the rear gate , theyres no key hole to unlock it , its a push button on the outside , that goes to a power lock ,i didnt think to much about it at the time just figured it was a bad push button , then , months later the power locks and now the power mirrors , i think somewhere i read there is a service bulletin from gm, about what to do to fix it , i dont know , but any thing you find out would realy help , thanks
#585 of 609 99 Blazer electrical problem
Jul 23, 2011 (8:53 pm)
I have a 99 Blazer with just under 200k miles on it. Over the summer I took a business trip to Myrtle Beach. On the way home I started getting a surge that would knock the cruise control off. After a little while I noticed the dash lights had a quick power surge on and off. Then my gauges started bounced, specifically the speedometer. When the speedometer would fluctuate wildly and drop down in speed the transmission would begin switching to match the speedometer. Eventually this stopped and I was able to make it home to Atlanta. This problem never came back as bad until recently. Usually it would happen for just a minute or two randomly and then go away.
This last week the problem came back in force until the speedometer dropped to 0 and would not come up . The car then shifted down to first gear and would not change upwards. I could manually move the transmission down to second and it would shift . However it would not shift higher into third or D. My mechanice was positive the problem was the alternator and changed it out. The car drove fine home from the shop. It drove fine half way , a 48 mile drive, to work the next day. Then the problem started again. I was able to make it to work but just barely. At lunch time I checked all the battery connections and the connections to the alternator. Everything seemed fine. I drove the car around a few minutes around my job and no problem. I attempted to drive home from work and only made it 9 miles before the problem became so bad that I had to park it.
The next day I towed the car to the closest Goodyear. They checked everything they could think of all day. The only thing they could come up with was the paossiblity the battery cables were loose. They cleaned the cables really well and tightened them back down. I was able to get the car about 10 miles before I was back on the side of the road.
My thought is there is some relay or fuse that runs fine until it gets a certain temperature and then it quits working. I will say the car temperature has always read fine. I feel that this is specific to whatever electrical component is in play. It took about 4 hours today to limp the car the additional 30 miles home. Everytime it would act up we would let it rest for about 30 minutes. It would drive fine for a mile or two and start back up again.
I would appreciatte any suggestions or thoughts on what anyone might think is wrong with the vehicle. I am almost 900 bucks in this week in towing fees and mechanic bills. I presently have it parked at a shop that speciallizes in car electrical problems for $90 an hour.
#586 of 609 Re: 95 chevy blazer electrical problems [toleson]
Sep 14, 2011 (9:39 am)
OK HERE GOES I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 1995 S10 AND DROVE ME CRAZY. aLL YOUR FRONT WIRING AND REAR WIRING LIGHTS ARE CONNECTED TO THE EMERGENCY FLASHER IN THE COLUMN. YOU WILL LOOSE LIGHTS AND THINGS WILL GO CRAZY. FIX TAKE A SMALL SCREW DRIVER JEWLERS UNIT AND PRY THE DIRECTIONAL SWITCH INSERT OUT OF THE COLUMN. GET A NEW EMERGENCY SWITCH INSERT AND JUST PUSH IT INTO THE COLUMN HOUSING WHERE YOU JUST PULLED OUT THE OLD ONE. PART IS AVAILABLE AT THE DEALER FOR ABOUT AROUND $25 DOLLARS IF I REMEMBER
LOTS OF LUCK. CHARLIIE AT LUCKYMURFFAOL.COM
#587 of 609 blown fuse
Oct 10, 2011 (1:41 pm)
I recently replaced my battery on my 2001 jimmy a few weeks latter my doors would not lock with my remote which has new battery also, and when i used the power locks a fuse blew and every time i replace it, it blows again and without my power locks i cant lock the rear hatch does anone have any ideas. Thanks
#588 of 609 Re: electrical problems [ccbecke]
Oct 22, 2011 (9:41 am)
I had a similar problem with the wipers that also caused my cruise control to work rarely if at all. After several expensive attempts to fix my problems, I discovered that replacing the fuses improved matters. Eventually I replaced or reconditioned all fuses in both the dash and underhood boxes. Again, things improved but were not entirely reliable. I then pulled the fuses again and sprayed all of the fuse sockets with T40, and anti-corrosion formulation. I also sprayed a few accessible harness sockets. That was two months ago. No electrical problems since.
#589 of 609 Re: electrical problems [blueheron1]
Oct 22, 2011 (10:20 am)
I do not know how a S10 Chevrolet can survive in the rust belt for more than five years because of the corrosion of the delicate electrical connections. The S10 is a delicate vehicle and needs constant attention.
That is why you hardly ever see an S10 on used car lots. That is because by the time an S10 is more than six or seven years old it is worthless and is sent to the salvage yard. When a S10 reaches the salvage yard it is immediately crushed because there is nothing on it worth salvaging.
Some auto repair shops refuse to work on a S10 because when the owner gets the bill, he will tell the shop to keep the car and sell for charges...if they can. I had a shop refuse to bleed my1991 S10 Blazer ABS brakes because they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool and did the did not have an employee that know how to do it. A GM Tech 1 scan tool costs about $400 and the repair shop would not use it more than once every four or five years. I finally bled the brake without a Tech 1 scan tool but it took two people and about 8 hours to do it. That would be $1100 at a auto repair shop.
#590 of 609 Re: 99 Blazer electrical problem [tlmorgan]
Oct 26, 2011 (6:59 pm)
Me and my wife had a similar problem with a 1992 Honda Accord. We had replaced the distributor to solve a problem with an engine code reporting a failure of the TDC position sensor. The car worked fine for a few days. Then, after driving the car for about 20 miles, the car sputtered. Less than a minute later, the car completely died. I couldn't start it again for at least an hour. Turns out a sensor in the alternator was overheating and shutting down the spark network. When it dies, you can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires and inserting a flathead screwdriver into the socket on the wire. Do not hold onto the screwdriver for the next step. Have someone try to start the vehicle and see if there is a spark. If there is no spark, pull the wire off of the distributor that leads from the ignition coil. Repeat the previous test with the screwdriver in the wire from the coil. If there is spark, the problem may be with the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark, the coil may be bad. An overheating coil can fail and then work again once cooled.
From what you described, it sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator failed. There is a chance that voltage spikes may have damaged the computer. I would have it checked by a Chevy dealer. If the computer is fine, there is a chance the replacement alternator is defective. Most alternators that you buy at auto parts stores are not new, they are remanufactured. They take old alternators and replace only what they have to in order to get them working again. They then send them back to the stores to be resold. I can't tell you how many parts I have had to take back due to remanufacturing defect.
Also, check with your insurance company for emergency roadside assistance. I have it on my insurance for $3 a month and it covers all towing within 50 miles of the towing destination. It's saved me several times.
#591 of 609 Starting problems
Nov 29, 2011 (7:21 am)
I have 1995 S10 Chevy Blazer. Recently I've had issues starting it. In the beginning it would take 3 - 4 turns of the key to start it. Now it has progressed to 3-4 turns of the key with a pump of the gas pedal. New this morning. Turned the key and got no dash lights and CD player did the eject as if battery was disconnected, then another turn of the key power restored and a few more turns of the key and a pump or 2 of the gas pedal and it started. Any ideas what to check for an easy fix?
#592 of 609 Re: power windows and more...HELP [bitter]
Dec 01, 2011 (6:32 pm)
I think I may have found my salvation! Years ago my power locks, seats, and remote stopped working. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't fix it but I had to pay $300 labor. The dome light also went on and off by itself, but that's minor Then the key became stuck in the igniton. Now about 3 months ago, the AC would momentarily turn off when I hit any of the power window buttons (includes heat or any blower functions at all)--then the 2 brake lights on the dash started going on and off constantly--at this point the the AC and windows entirely ceased to function. I'm a divorced mom and I don't have anyone to help me, and auto problems are a HUGE expense. I have had this truck for 10 yrs and it has been so reliable it ALWAYS starts for me but this was making it impossible here in FL not being able to turn on the AC OR ROLL THE WINDOWS down when it's 98 outside. I'm going to buy the IGN switch and change it out and I hope so much this fixes it! TY ALL!