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Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV
#467 of 609 Bad ABS Module?
Nov 17, 2009 (5:44 pm)
I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer, about 157,000 miles
Like clockwork after 30 minutes, the abs will kick in under light pressure and the abs light will come on and stay on. After turning off the car for while it turns off then will repeat.
Both the wheel hubs and sensors are new, the rear one is not but I cleaned them all just to double check. Did not see any issues with worn wires. The problem started months after I replaced the wheel hubs.
I have only had the blazer since the spring and would notice the pedal would chatter a little when backing down my drive way which is a slight incline. Thought it was due to rear wheel bearings which I have not attempted to replace yet.
Looking online found you can get the module rebuilt. Before I attempt to take this out was looking for other options.
#468 of 609 Re: Bad ABS Module? [dp2226]
Nov 17, 2009 (8:09 pm)
I can only tell you what I had to do. Tighten the rear shoes just enough to touch
the drum. not drag or hold back. Bleed the entire brake system starting with the
right rear (farest away) and work your way up to finish at left front. Try it then and see what you have. It should be ok. If not bleed the module. I do not know where you start there or the exact procedure. I may have it in some of my manuals but,
you probably have one or have access to one. I know when your rear shoes need
replaced or tightened That brake pedal and the noise the antilock module makes
sounds like the blazer's falling apart. It's funny to me when mine has done it over
the years.You don't need rear wheel bearings unless you see dark moist thick
oil caked on the inside of the rear wheels.When a bearing goes out the seals
warn you first.Just try the rear shoe adjusting and bleeding first and you will be
surprised. That antilock brake system GM came out with is a joke.Every GM
vehicle with that system should be recalled for a less complicated normal system.
Sorry I said it's funny to me but I know how you feel. Good luck pal.
#469 of 609 Re: Bad ABS Module? [cardoc50]
Nov 18, 2009 (5:51 am)
Sounds good and I will give it a try. I did have a new master cylinder put on in the summer and rear calipers. Maybe there is some air left over or something.
Does it matter if I have disc brakes vs drum brakes? I hate the aluminum calipers, stripped the bleeder on the first set just putting them on.
Did your blazer do it after driving for almost the same amount of time?
Thanks for the tip on the rear wheel bearings, back end sounded a little loud to me. The seals are definitely not leaking. Guess I am paranoid after finding out the first cause of a loud ride was the u-joints.
#470 of 609 Re: Bad ABS Module? [dp2226]
Nov 18, 2009 (6:33 am)
I was'nt aware you had rear discs.As far as mine,like I said when the rear shoes got thin it would do it. Generally a car will go through 2-3 pairs of front pads to one set of rear shoes. Disc brakes really set themselves because as the pads get thin
the piston in the caliper goes further and further out with no slack between the piston and brake pad. I like aluminum calipers on motorcycles and ATV;s but on
a vehicle like ours,no way. I suggest you quickly crack the bleeders and close them
immediatly(to see if they are going to loosen or strip)Now comes the fun.Bleed the system from rear to front. Oh yea, if your calipers are corroded,the piston may stick
and the pads will chatter if they are just lying there unassisted and there goes your light and antilock noise.Check the calipers repair or replace as needed. Bleed the
heck out of your brakes starting at the farthest away working forward.Your last one
should be left(drivers side) front.I think you'll find this to work.If not,have your under
hood antilock module checked.It has a printed curcuit board that can easily be replaced too.I would leave that one to someone else after getting bleeding instructions first. Good luck.P.S.Wanna buy a used Jimmy? LOL.I feel you'll get
it this time around. Good luck pal.
#471 of 609 Re: Bad ABS Module? [cardoc50]
Nov 18, 2009 (3:14 pm)
Definitely will give it a go. The front calipers are old so will check them out.
I just popped the abs module out and unfortunately it is a Hayes 310 which according to a couple sites it cannot be rebuilt
#472 of 609 Re: strange electrical indications and problems 99 jimmy [jlflemmons]
Nov 19, 2009 (4:18 pm)
Thanks, I'll give that a try too. Sounds easy enough to fix.
#473 of 609 Troubleshooting ABS light
Dec 09, 2009 (7:14 am)
I posted this a while ago and was given some good tips but have not solved the problem. The front left caliper was bad so I replaced it but running into the same problem where the ABS light goes on after 30 minutes of driving
It is a 1999 Chevy Blazer
Both Wheel hubs with sensors new, calipers, rotors, and pads all the way around, master cylinder. The abs modulator is a Hayes 310, cannot be refurbished, no idea if it is good or not. I believe the brakes are properly bled. I also checked the wheel sensor connections to see if loose or dirty. I was only able to test the resistance which was 1 ohm each. I know there is a 3rd sensor on the drivetrain but have no idea if it is good.
Before I drop $100 on an ABS Diagnostic tool, any other ideas?
#474 of 609 Re: Fuse #15 Blows every time > 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4 [cardoc50]
Dec 09, 2009 (6:50 pm)
have same exact problem with the fuse for the actuator fuse is fine till i drive the vehicle when idling it is fine can put it in and out of gear if you dont go thought it was actuator so found used actuator $140.00 still same problem
#475 of 609 Re: Troubleshooting ABS light [dp2226]
Dec 10, 2009 (5:51 pm)
On 4 wheel disc brakes with 4 wheel anti lock brakes,there is a sensor at all 4 wheels.If you haveRWALock system it only controls lock up of the rear wheels.If you have RWAL only the sensor should be in the tail shaft of the transfer case or if two Wdrive on the tail shaft of the transmission.I am assuming that you have a 4x4.
If it's a RWAL system,the control unit(brain) is mounted at a different place but still easy to access. The wheel speed sensors and brake light switch sends info to thecontrol unit to monitor hydraulic line pressure to avoid wheel lockk up.It also constantly monitors the system to find faults in the system.When something goes wrong in the system, the"BRAKE" or :ANTILOCK" light will come on.A code will then be stored. The code reveals the problem.Now, getting the code of course requires a special scan tool. Some of the newer scanners will give abs trouble codes too If not you have to use one made for the abs system only. After getting the code(s) you'll have to use the tool to erase the code(s).That's the only way.Check all wireing connections,If you have different size tires and wheels other than factory,It WILL cause the Light to go on also.There can't be a 10 percent variance in
speed sensors and tire size.That can be recallibrated with a scan tool.I don't know what is making your light(s) come on and without a scan tool, you may never know
I was just shareing some info I knew about the system hoping it may help. Good luck sir,
#476 of 609 Re: Troubleshooting ABS light [cardoc50]
Dec 11, 2009 (6:12 am)
Thank you for the advice. You started to help me orignally and were right on checking the calipers up front. One was bad and bled the heck out of them like you said. It was a huge help. Brakes even smoother now. I will look into the scan too. It may be the error code needs to be reset or can at least direct me to the problem.