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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
472 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM
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I have a 98 Jimmy that Ive had for a year. 150k miles, runs like a champ...well since i fixed everything that was wrong. The last week or so, my trip odometer sporatically resets itself when I turn the car off, then restart it again. It always resets itself overnight (again this just started about a week ago), and sometimes resets throughout the day. I truly rely on my trip odometer for gas mileage as the gas guage is always jumping. I have very car knowledgeable friends and they have no clue. My best guess at this point is a short somewhere??? Any helpful tips, hints, or advice of where to start to try to get this fixed would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks! 
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I must be an idiot because I cannot find the underhood fuse/relay box on my 1997 GMC Jimmy SLE. There are posts on this forum that refer to it for that model year, and my Chiltons has a picture showing a big, black plastic box sitting atop the driver's side fender. But I don't see that on my Jimmy! Where should I be looking?
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Replying to: slarra (Nov 15, 2009 4:25 pm) of mine either. There is a big black box under the hood on the right side.It is your PCM (powertrain control module) or computer is what some call it. On the firewall behind the engine there are three relays.All three of these are for the airconditioner unit.The box on top of the left (drivers side) fender is the anti lock braking system. There are three relays behind the glove box. One is the fuel pump relay, one is for the headlamps for high and low beam and daytime running lamps. The other I can't remember just now. When you open the drivers door, on the side of the dash is where the fuse box is located. There are two relays in there also.So, no you are not an idiot. |
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| I was driving down the road today at about 70 with the cruise control on and the battery light came on, a very sort while after, the airbag light came on. I looked down and the volt meter was droping. At about 9 to 10 volts the gauges died. (All except oil press and the transmission indicator as well as milage.) A mile or two down the road the truck was slowing (loss of power) so I pulled over to the side of the road to squeeze as many miles out of it as I could. I hit the edge of the road at about 50 mph and everything came back to life. Cut the hunting trip short turned around and on the way home it did the same thing another 9 times for the next 30 miles to the house. There may have been some viabration when I pulled over hitting the rumble strips but I would hope that we don't jump on it and assume a bad ground right off the bat. Checked the battery under load reading 12.4v stuck the meter on it after starting the engine and was reading 14.06v then it would jump around abit to 9.05v, 10.0v, 12.4v then back up to 14.06v and hold steady. The battery is old but the alternator is 8 weeks old. I have been reading the posts and found some similar but not the same. I also have been dealing with the inaccurate fuel gauge for about 3 years. I fill the truck up indicates full, never gets below half a tank until it jumps to E. Fluctuates when shifting from P to D or R. Love this truck but don't trust it to take trips with any more. I have had it since new in 99. By the way it is an SLE 4x4 4.3L v6. Appreciate any input anyone might have. Thanks. | |
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Replying to: cwangs1 (Nov 16, 2009 11:18 am) bad experiance very simular to yours. After checking and letting the parts store check it, it was bad. When it started going bad, it would lose power and I had to pull off at several rest areas because the lamps were getting dim and the doors locked by themselves and a couple other wierd things happend also.I would sit in the rain and finally get someone to jump me.When it started the guage would go up to normal as it rapidly charged the battery. It happened a couple more times that night. Altinator was the first thing I thought of.As I said it checked bad. I bought a reman altinator saving a great deal of money. It was good until the trip home from the hospital,same thing. I will also mention our 99 grandprix gt did the same thing only we could'nt get the windows to work at all.We were stuck inside and I had put a reman on it too.Put a new(not remanufactured) one on both vehicles and that's been a few years back.My sons 99 camaro he put four remans on it before he finnaly listened and went to new. I don't know if you went for reman or new but,new ones go bad sometimes too. It shorted out the battery in my Jimmy also.Had to get a new one. Check or have your altinater checked first
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Nov 16, 2009 2:05 pm) |
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Replying to: cwangs1 (Nov 16, 2009 11:18 am) All that being said, your "new" alternator may be having issues. Cruising on the road in daylight hours with the fan on low, you are not putting much stress on the alternator at all. By the way, that gas gauge problem you are seeing is a software issue with '99-'02 GM trucks. Instead of buffering the gas slosh in the tank with a baffle, the designers used software to "average" the signal coming from the sending unit to the BCM. Problem is, some code junkie only conditioned the signal when the vehicle is in drive, not reverse, or park. Want to see something cool? If you back out and the gauge drops and turns on the "low fuel" lamp, put the vehicle in drive and get moving up to about 20mph or so. Shift the tranny into neutral and put on the brakes. The fuel gauge will swing back up to the true reading. Before you stop, shift back to drive. This kicks the software back into "averaging" mode and the gauge will behave normally. You don't want to know how long it took me to figure out what was causing this! 
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I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer, about 157,000 miles Like clockwork after 30 minutes, the abs will kick in under light pressure and the abs light will come on and stay on. After turning off the car for while it turns off then will repeat. Both the wheel hubs and sensors are new, the rear one is not but I cleaned them all just to double check. Did not see any issues with worn wires. The problem started months after I replaced the wheel hubs. I have only had the blazer since the spring and would notice the pedal would chatter a little when backing down my drive way which is a slight incline. Thought it was due to rear wheel bearings which I have not attempted to replace yet. Looking online found you can get the module rebuilt. Before I attempt to take this out was looking for other options.
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Replying to: dp2226 (Nov 17, 2009 5:44 pm) the drum. not drag or hold back. Bleed the entire brake system starting with the right rear (farest away) and work your way up to finish at left front. Try it then and see what you have. It should be ok. If not bleed the module. I do not know where you start there or the exact procedure. I may have it in some of my manuals but, you probably have one or have access to one. I know when your rear shoes need replaced or tightened That brake pedal and the noise the antilock module makes sounds like the blazer's falling apart. It's funny to me when mine has done it over the years.You don't need rear wheel bearings unless you see dark moist thick oil caked on the inside of the rear wheels.When a bearing goes out the seals warn you first.Just try the rear shoe adjusting and bleeding first and you will be surprised. That antilock brake system GM came out with is a joke.Every GM vehicle with that system should be recalled for a less complicated normal system. Sorry I said it's funny to me but I know how you feel. Good luck pal.
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Nov 17, 2009 8:09 pm) Does it matter if I have disc brakes vs drum brakes? I hate the aluminum calipers, stripped the bleeder on the first set just putting them on. Did your blazer do it after driving for almost the same amount of time? Thanks for the tip on the rear wheel bearings, back end sounded a little loud to me. The seals are definitely not leaking. Guess I am paranoid after finding out the first cause of a loud ride was the u-joints.
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