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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
472 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM
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Parasitic drain can kill a battery in a few days or overnight, depending on how severe the drain is. Bad relays, the ECM, sensors, clock, alarm, and other electronic components can drain a battery if they are not in good working order. For example, I had to replace an older battery when it was compeletely dead overnight because the power door lock relay failed. I replaced the relay and the battery and the new battery seemed to maintain a charge. Just to check the state of charge, I purchased a Beltran 800 ma Battery Minder and attached the leads to the battery positive and negative terminals. I noticed the yellow charge light would come on for 20 minutes before the green full charge light was illuminated but I thought that was normal. My rear passenger side power window was slow at raising and lowering so I decided to replace the power window motor. Replacing the power window lift motor completely fixed the battery drain problem. Apparently the old power window lift motor was worn so bad that and was placing a small but continuous 5 or 10 ma drain (ground) on the battery even when the motor was not being used and the ignition key was turned off. After I replaced the power windlow lift motor and when I reattached the Beltran 800 ma Battery Minder to the battery terminals, the green full charge light is immediately lit, meaning the battery is at full charge every time I drive the car and turn the ignition key off. I can now leave the Battery Minder disconected for any length of time and when I reconnect it just to see what state of charge the battery is in, the green full charge light lights immediately, meaning the battery is maintaining a full charge while not in use amd does not need the Battery Minder to bring it up to full charge. That is my story, and it may be your problem, too. I have heard of some people pulling accesoory fuses until they find the accessory or accessories that may be causing the the battery drain. Before you start pulling fuses, get a $25 multimeter and see if there is a parasitic battery drain while the engine is not running. |
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Replying to: edortizr6 (Oct 27, 2009 10:17 am) Testing for a Parasitic Drain This article is about a vehicle with dual batteries but it's all the same. |
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Replying to: edortizr6 (Oct 27, 2009 10:17 am) If the car has power until you try to start it, and then all power is gone, double check all your connections to the battery and engine. Here again, a volt meter is invaluable. It will tell you if the battery still has power, but is not getting it to the vehicle, ie bad connection. Good luck! |
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Replying to: buster1155 (Oct 26, 2009 5:43 pm) find the diagrams.I wonder how you went through so many related parts and you never mentioned having a blown fuse.In the diagram you will find the routing of the wiper related wiring. Sometimes the wiring will go through other unrelated parts other than the one you have problems with. I suggest you get the diagram and start from the fuse panel.Sorry I can't pinpoint the exact problem but I hope you may use something I may have said to help you fix your problem. Good luck!
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Oct 28, 2009 7:34 am) 
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| Last night my nephew left the back gate on my blazer open all night. It started fine, but when I got to work this morning I tried to lock the doors and nothing..... I checked all the doors and made sure that they were all shut including the gate. Still nothing. Since it was the gate left open I tried to lock all the doors thru that lock. Which worked. So I thought. When I went to my blazer at lunch, all the doors were unlocked again. I checked the back gate, it too was unlocked. I got in the blazer and started down the road and I heard a click. Then the "gate ajar" light came on. Once I got stopped, I tried again to lock all the doors with no luck and the gate ajar light keeps coming on. What do I do????? | |
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I have a 98 Jimmy that Ive had for a year. 150k miles, runs like a champ...well since i fixed everything that was wrong. The last week or so, my trip odometer sporatically resets itself when I turn the car off, then restart it again. It always resets itself overnight (again this just started about a week ago), and sometimes resets throughout the day. I truly rely on my trip odometer for gas mileage as the gas guage is always jumping. I have very car knowledgeable friends and they have no clue. My best guess at this point is a short somewhere??? Any helpful tips, hints, or advice of where to start to try to get this fixed would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
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I must be an idiot because I cannot find the underhood fuse/relay box on my 1997 GMC Jimmy SLE. There are posts on this forum that refer to it for that model year, and my Chiltons has a picture showing a big, black plastic box sitting atop the driver's side fender. But I don't see that on my Jimmy! Where should I be looking?
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Replying to: slarra (Nov 15, 2009 4:25 pm) of mine either. There is a big black box under the hood on the right side.It is your PCM (powertrain control module) or computer is what some call it. On the firewall behind the engine there are three relays.All three of these are for the airconditioner unit.The box on top of the left (drivers side) fender is the anti lock braking system. There are three relays behind the glove box. One is the fuel pump relay, one is for the headlamps for high and low beam and daytime running lamps. The other I can't remember just now. When you open the drivers door, on the side of the dash is where the fuse box is located. There are two relays in there also.So, no you are not an idiot. |
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| I was driving down the road today at about 70 with the cruise control on and the battery light came on, a very sort while after, the airbag light came on. I looked down and the volt meter was droping. At about 9 to 10 volts the gauges died. (All except oil press and the transmission indicator as well as milage.) A mile or two down the road the truck was slowing (loss of power) so I pulled over to the side of the road to squeeze as many miles out of it as I could. I hit the edge of the road at about 50 mph and everything came back to life. Cut the hunting trip short turned around and on the way home it did the same thing another 9 times for the next 30 miles to the house. There may have been some viabration when I pulled over hitting the rumble strips but I would hope that we don't jump on it and assume a bad ground right off the bat. Checked the battery under load reading 12.4v stuck the meter on it after starting the engine and was reading 14.06v then it would jump around abit to 9.05v, 10.0v, 12.4v then back up to 14.06v and hold steady. The battery is old but the alternator is 8 weeks old. I have been reading the posts and found some similar but not the same. I also have been dealing with the inaccurate fuel gauge for about 3 years. I fill the truck up indicates full, never gets below half a tank until it jumps to E. Fluctuates when shifting from P to D or R. Love this truck but don't trust it to take trips with any more. I have had it since new in 99. By the way it is an SLE 4x4 4.3L v6. Appreciate any input anyone might have. Thanks. | |
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