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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
472 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 28, 2009 9:04 pm)
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Jul 29, 2009 4:30 am) I am not trying to argue with anyone here, just pointing out that in my 40+ years of working on electrical systems in both automobiles and industry that there are more things than just over current that can blow a fuse. I am glad your expertise was of good use to him, and I am glad his problem is resolved. My apologies if I have offended you. jflemmons
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so i started reading through the forum pages to see if any one else has had the problems i have had with these lights and after reading quite a few pages, i figured i would just post a thread, so i appologize for being redundant. so im working on a 95 jimmy 4 wd 4 door. the runnig lights work fine (head lamps, hi and low, parking lamps, front and rear) but the insturment lights are out, the brake lights dont work (including high mount) and no turn signals work at all including the 4 ways. i know the brake switch works because it kicks the cruise controll off when you hit the brakes, and when you hit the turn signal lever to signal left or right it sounds like the flasher lets out one click, but no lights light up. it could be a circuit breaker and not the flasher though. all the fuses on the left side dash are fine and there is no power to the signals at the sockets, so its not a ground issue. if some one could give me an idea of whats wrong that would be great, i dont want to have my buddy spend 250 on a multi function switch if it could be something else. thanks for your help.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 29, 2009 12:54 pm) I'm curious. Can you elaborate? tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Replying to: tidester (Aug 02, 2009 12:06 pm) In an auto-resetting circuit breaker such as used in a headlight circuit, the same principles apply. When the temperature of the circuit breaker reaches a pre-designed point, the circuit path opens, causing a cool down. Once it cools down, it closes the current path and will repeat the cycle until the fault is corrected. A really neat trick is to SOLDER a low current fuse into a circuit without "blowing" the fuse. Which is why Bussmann/Cooper always advises to solder inline holders before installing the fuse. Not so much with automotive applications, but in industrial apps a poorly mounted fuse block can open a fuse through vibration.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 02, 2009 5:40 pm)  tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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I am having a problem with my LED panel lights (Shift position indicator and odometer). When my ignition switch is in the RUN position, the shift position indicator, odometer and radio stop working. When the key is turned back to the OFF position, they all work fine. When the key is turned back to the LOCK position and pulled out, the radio is still on. Also, the 10amp "Cruise Control Module and Switch, Body Control Module, Heated Seats" fuse keeps blowing out and the temperature gauge does not appear to be working. Is this an ignition switch problem or something worse? Are all of these problems related or is it more than one problem?
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Replying to: steveo16 (Aug 04, 2009 2:51 pm) I have a basic schematic set on this vehicle, let me check it and get back with you. [edit] On the fuse issue, try turning off the cruise control switch on the stalk, and (considering it is 103 here today  ) don't turn on the heated seats. Put in a fuse and see if it pops immediately. If not, turn the switch to run and check fuse. See if the indicators in the instrument cluster come on. If still good, turn on the cruise switch. Try and isolate what function is drawing the high current. I don't have the complete schematic available, but I believe the functions in the instrument cluster that you listed as malfunctioning all come from the BCM, and the radio has aux power that (I believe) is also supplied by the BCM for the delayed power off function. The cruise control used to be a simple system, but I am thinking it also has a tie-in to the BCM. Try the tests I listed above and tell us what you get.
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Replying to: steveo16 (Aug 04, 2009 2:51 pm) and oil pressure switch are wired so that when one goes it appears that they both go out. As far as the other problems I don't think they are related to temp guage.However, I've been wrong before. The other problems and possibly all the symptoms may be because of the ignition switch.Have you had it checked for trouble codes? I really don't know if I can be of any help at all. Check oil pressure switch and temp switch. Borrow a code scanner or take it to a repair shop to see what codes (if any) show up. GM did a lot of wiring changes to that body style between 1995 and 2004 because of electrical problems. Sorry I can't help.When you get it fixed,can you tell us what the problem(s) were? I'm curious.Thanks |
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