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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
472 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 27, 2009 3:00 pm) model Blazer? Not a 1960 Chrysler? Just glad I could be of help and thanks again.
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Jul 28, 2009 3:18 pm) The same issue can occur with automatic resetting circuit breakers, such as on some headlamp circuits. The breaker will trip, and reset when it cools down. Many years ago I was called down to Houston where a prototype industrial truck was undergoing environmental testing. Seems they were tripping the breakers for the AC unit cooling the instrument cab. Current monitoring showed they were only at 80% of the circuit breaker rating. But they were testing inside a heat chamber, and the combined effect lowered the capacity of the breaker. This was very common on GM back in 68 -76. Happened all the time when the Houston area temps went up into the 100 range. Folks would hop in their cars after work, start the car, flip the AC on high, and in about five minutes the high blower fuse would pop. Car would come to the shop and there would be nothing at all wrong with the blower. The high speed blower fuse was a separate inline fuse holder back behind the aircleaner on the firewall. We would routinely move the holder over to the low side of the AC drier and attach it there. Problem solved, the freon line would keep the fuse cool. This isn't just a car issue, this is common to all passive circuit protection devices. They are tripped by heat caused by electrical current. Automotive and industrial fuses are rated at 25C, as is the AGC30 that was typically used on the high speed blower circuit. More than one blower motor has been changed thinking it was the cause of the blown fuses.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 28, 2009 9:04 pm)
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Jul 29, 2009 4:30 am) I am not trying to argue with anyone here, just pointing out that in my 40+ years of working on electrical systems in both automobiles and industry that there are more things than just over current that can blow a fuse. I am glad your expertise was of good use to him, and I am glad his problem is resolved. My apologies if I have offended you. jflemmons
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so i started reading through the forum pages to see if any one else has had the problems i have had with these lights and after reading quite a few pages, i figured i would just post a thread, so i appologize for being redundant. so im working on a 95 jimmy 4 wd 4 door. the runnig lights work fine (head lamps, hi and low, parking lamps, front and rear) but the insturment lights are out, the brake lights dont work (including high mount) and no turn signals work at all including the 4 ways. i know the brake switch works because it kicks the cruise controll off when you hit the brakes, and when you hit the turn signal lever to signal left or right it sounds like the flasher lets out one click, but no lights light up. it could be a circuit breaker and not the flasher though. all the fuses on the left side dash are fine and there is no power to the signals at the sockets, so its not a ground issue. if some one could give me an idea of whats wrong that would be great, i dont want to have my buddy spend 250 on a multi function switch if it could be something else. thanks for your help.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 29, 2009 12:54 pm) I'm curious. Can you elaborate? tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Replying to: tidester (Aug 02, 2009 12:06 pm) In an auto-resetting circuit breaker such as used in a headlight circuit, the same principles apply. When the temperature of the circuit breaker reaches a pre-designed point, the circuit path opens, causing a cool down. Once it cools down, it closes the current path and will repeat the cycle until the fault is corrected. A really neat trick is to SOLDER a low current fuse into a circuit without "blowing" the fuse. Which is why Bussmann/Cooper always advises to solder inline holders before installing the fuse. Not so much with automotive applications, but in industrial apps a poorly mounted fuse block can open a fuse through vibration.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 02, 2009 5:40 pm)  tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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I am having a problem with my LED panel lights (Shift position indicator and odometer). When my ignition switch is in the RUN position, the shift position indicator, odometer and radio stop working. When the key is turned back to the OFF position, they all work fine. When the key is turned back to the LOCK position and pulled out, the radio is still on. Also, the 10amp "Cruise Control Module and Switch, Body Control Module, Heated Seats" fuse keeps blowing out and the temperature gauge does not appear to be working. Is this an ignition switch problem or something worse? Are all of these problems related or is it more than one problem?
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