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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

472 messages,  Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 4:18 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet, GMC Jimmy, SUV


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#393 of 472
Re: Fuse #15 Blows every time > 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4 [steve_] by cardoc50
Jun 27, 2009 (5:13 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (Jun 20, 2009 8:05 am)

Sorry Steve about the caps. It won't happen again.Thank you
#394 of 472
2000 jimmy problems? by chewchang
Jun 28, 2009 (7:12 am)
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my alarm goes off every 2 or 3 hours.and my inside light stays on inless the dome overide swicth is pussed in,any ideas?
#396 of 472
2000 jimmy window not working by potter67
Jul 15, 2009 (10:06 am)
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my drivers side window stopped working. checked fuses (ok). does not make any
sound when button is depressed. Is window motor gone. How do I trouble shoot the problem?
#397 of 472
2000 Chevy blazer rear hatch by rw2
Jul 24, 2009 (8:41 am)
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2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2, power door locks, remote mirror controls & electric rear hatch release are not operating. Unable to open rear hatch/tailgate.
#398 of 472
Re: 2000 Chevy blazer rear hatch [rw2] by cardoc50
Jul 27, 2009 (4:45 am)
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Replying to: rw2 (Jul 24, 2009 8:41 am)

I do know the hatch,door locks and mirrors are on the same circuit. If you have checked the accesory fuse(Ibelieve that is the one), It would be the relay. The
problems you have with those is that they draw a lot of power to operate. That's why there is a relay also and not just a fuse. If I remove the power accesory fuse,those same things do not work at all. I hope it is the fuse because I don't know exactly where the relay is. From 1995 to 2004 they made a lot of small changes. Your owners manual should help you find the relay if you find the fuse is good. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it is the fuse. I hope this works for you and good luck.
#399 of 472
Re: 2000 Chevy blazer rear hatch [cardoc50] by rw2
Jul 27, 2009 (1:01 pm)
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Jul 27, 2009 4:45 am)

I want to thank cardoc50 for this information. I was able to find the relay center which is next to the windshield washer reservoir on the drivers side engine compartment. I replaced the fuse there and hatch,door locks and mirrors are now working.
#400 of 472
Re: 2000 Chevy blazer rear hatch [rw2] by jlflemmons
Jul 27, 2009 (3:00 pm)
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Replying to: rw2 (Jul 27, 2009 1:01 pm)

Glad it was just the fuse. One thing that folks don't often realize is that it isn't the electricity per se that pops the fuse. The fuse has a specific (very low) resistance, and the more current that goes through, the hotter it gets. A short circuit will cause a very fast rise in temperature in the fuse element, and 'pop goes the fuse'. I mention this because in intense summer heat, you can pop a fuse from the combination of the temperature rise caused by electrical current added to extreme underhood temperatures.
 
This was very common on the fan blower circuit used in GM back in the '60's through 80's. In the middle of a really hot summer day, the high speed would quit working on the a/c, but all the other speeds (different fuse) would work.
#401 of 472
Re: 2000 Chevy blazer rear hatch [jlflemmons] by cardoc50
Jul 28, 2009 (3:18 pm)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 27, 2009 3:00 pm)

RW2 thank you for the nice words. I have been a mechanic for Ford motor company and General motors for 38 years. I am not a genius but heat from air temperature rise will not blow or (pop) a fuse. And did'nt you say you had a 2000
model Blazer? Not a 1960 Chrysler? Just glad I could be of help and thanks again.
#402 of 472
Re: 2000 Chevy blazer rear hatch [cardoc50] by jlflemmons
Jul 28, 2009 (9:04 pm)
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Replying to: cardoc50 (Jul 28, 2009 3:18 pm)

No, the heat underhood alone will not pop the fuse. But the high underhood temps combined with a fuse element heated by it's rated current can definitely blow a fuse. Electric current is what causes the temperature to rise in the fuse element. When it gets hot enough, it melts and opens.
 
The same issue can occur with automatic resetting circuit breakers, such as on some headlamp circuits. The breaker will trip, and reset when it cools down. Many years ago I was called down to Houston where a prototype industrial truck was undergoing environmental testing. Seems they were tripping the breakers for the AC unit cooling the instrument cab. Current monitoring showed they were only at 80% of the circuit breaker rating. But they were testing inside a heat chamber, and the combined effect lowered the capacity of the breaker.
 
This was very common on GM back in 68 -76. Happened all the time when the Houston area temps went up into the 100 range. Folks would hop in their cars after work, start the car, flip the AC on high, and in about five minutes the high blower fuse would pop. Car would come to the shop and there would be nothing at all wrong with the blower. The high speed blower fuse was a separate inline fuse holder back behind the aircleaner on the firewall. We would routinely move the holder over to the low side of the AC drier and attach it there. Problem solved, the freon line would keep the fuse cool.
 
This isn't just a car issue, this is common to all passive circuit protection devices. They are tripped by heat caused by electrical current. Automotive and industrial fuses are rated at 25C, as is the AGC30 that was typically used on the high speed blower circuit. More than one blower motor has been changed thinking it was the cause of the blown fuses.

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